Help!!

[Shogun71]

i can't figure out what the **** is wrong with my SHO. when i step on the gas it bogs down horribly and then sporadically jerks to the proper acceleration level for only a half second or two at a time before going back to bogging. the car runs fine over 3000 rpm but under that even on cruise control it still sporadically bucks and bogs.

i have changed all of the plugs, the cam position sensor, and the crank position sensor none of which have helped even though i was sure the cam position sensor was the culprit.

a few things you all should know about the car that might help:

1.the timing belt idler pulley is frozen but the timing belt doesn't break because the cam seals are leaking oil all over the belt lubricating it and negating friction that would destroy the belt. i'm fixing this in a few days.

2. the water pump leaks and possibly doesn't function properly. i'm fixing that next week.

3. there is distinct possibility the head gasket is very slightly blown.

and before anybody asks, no, the car does not answer to the name lucky.

anybody have any ideas? i don't want to end up fixing everthing wrong with this car and she still runs like two tons of shit.

 

[SHOspazz92]

If your water Pump lakes, It's more then likely fouling up your CPS. Typically that would make the car stall and not start up for a long period of time, But it's just a shot in the dark.

I would also start looking for Vacume leaks, Issues with Grounds, etc.

Also, Try cleaning your MAF.

-Sam

 

[Shogun71]

If your water Pump lakes, It's more then likely fouling up your CPS.

my car started cutting off at speed a week or so ago and i changed out the CPS. that got rid of that problem but not my bucking and bogging. i'll clean out the MAF as well though to cross that off the list but i have the feeling it's something else.

as for ground and vacuum issues, i'll need to look into a more detailed writup on how to troubleshoot those. do you know of one??

 

[rubydist]

Does it store any codes? Did you run the koer test to see if you get any codes there?

Other possibilities include the coil pack, DIS, tps, mafs, plugs, wires, etc.

 

[zblackbeast]

mine is doing the exact same thing.. new coil is in the mail!! i got a code that said the 1 2 coil or something or other was bad. also going to put in new plugs.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Pull your codes. Also are the secondaries kicking in?

A leaking water pump can ruin your new CPS.

 

[zblackbeast]

yeah, but if hes having the same problem i am, hes getting ****** gas millage, NO power under 3k, but right before the secondaries kick in, its like its a new engine and pulls all the way past red line. running pig rich. last i recall, a bad CPS wouldn't let the car run at all..

 

[Shogun71]

Pull your codes. Also are the secondaries kicking in?

A leaking water pump can ruin your new CPS.

secondaries kick in @4000 just like always. there is almost no bucking and jerking above 3000.

i suspect the leaking pump killed my first CPS but magically some stop leak has stopped the leaking now where it hadn't before. i'm still changing the pump soon.

 

[Shogun71]

yeah, but if hes having the same problem i am, hes getting ****** gas millage, NO power under 3k, but right before the secondaries kick in, its like its a new engine and pulls all the way past red line. running pig rich. last i recall, a bad CPS wouldn't let the car run at all..

what can i do to make it run less rich?? does that tie in to the MAF?? is it possible i'm getting too much fuel because i'm not getting enough air?? this is the kind of stuff i need to figure out.

i don't think it's the coil because i drop tested it and i'm getting plenty of spark from the coil pack. i can check it again but i doubt it's the answer (though i thank you very much for throwin it out there as a possibility).

 

[zblackbeast]

If its only doing it under load it could still be your coil.. Run the KOER and KOEO test and get back to us. SHO's stock at WOT run pig rich anyway, but mine running rich all the time.. I don't know why it could be running so rich other than its not burning all the fuel cause of weak spark.

 

[Pro*banshee]

thrrottttlllllleee position sensor

Or a bad MAF.

I had BOTH wrong on my car and they caused the symptoms you described. The important thing is getting them codes run and reporting back:

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm

 

[Shogun71]

throttle position sensor eh? is there a write up on how to replace that anywhere? i know there's one to clean up the MAF so i'm good there. where is the TPS located?

thanks for the info. that one sounds interesting. even though i'm flat broke and butt ugly, there's no way i'm giving up on my lucille just because she's been abused by the dirty bastards who owned her before me. and me.

 

[Shogun71]

SHO's stock at WOT run pig rich anyway

please excuse my ignorance but what is WOT??

 

[LOUDSHO92]

throttle position sensor eh? is there a write up on how to replace that anywhere? i know there's one to clean up the MAF so i'm good there. where is the TPS located?

thanks for the info. that one sounds interesting. even though i'm flat broke and butt ugly, there's no way i'm giving up on my lucille just because she's been abused by the dirty bastards who owned her before me. and me.

Its on the throttle body and facing the bumper.

Pull your codes. SHOTimes has a how to on pulling codes.

 

[rubydist]

what is WOT??

WOT = Wide Open Throttle

 

[Shogun71]

Its on the throttle body and facing the bumper.

Pull your codes. SHOTimes has a how to on pulling codes.

is there a picture available anywhere showing where it is on the throttle body. i'm no mr. goodwrench.

 

[zblackbeast]

look at your throttle body.. its a ********* squre. the plug in faces the drivers side and is square with an oval inside. you really can't miss it.

 

[Shogun71]

yeah i went and looked up the part online and then checked the throttle body to find it. it looks like i finally caught a break with this beast. that looks like literally the easiest part on the whole car to replace. thanks god.

 

[AREA 91]

yeah i went and looked up the part online and then checked the throttle body to find it. it looks like i finally caught a break with this beast. that looks like literally the easiest part on the whole car to replace. thanks god.

If you have access to a DVOM (digital volts ohms meter) you can check your TPS before you replace it.

Place the positive lead on the middle wire of the TPS, and ground out the black lead. Turn your ignition key on, but don't start the car.

You should have somewhere around .96 volts with the throttle closed.
Now SLOWLY start to open the throttle while watching the voltage increase. The voltage should increase consistantly as the throttle is opened. If you have a range of throttle movement where the voltage does not change, this is known as a "dead spot". The sensor needs changed.

Did this help you in your diagnosis?

 

[Pro*banshee]

My vote is for analog multimeter, the analog sweeping motion makes it MUCH easier than 2 signifigant digits with a 1 second update rate to detect skips and dead spots