Help! Rotor won't come off

[Cheesehead]

Got my Powerstop kit with pads and rotors. I took everything off including the T-40 Torx bit that holds the rotor and the thing won't budge. I have sprayed it with Breakfree gun **** and Liquid Wrench silicone and nothing. I have been beating on the thing for 2 hours. Any suggestions?

 

[Irish Pride]

Keep beating on it from the backside while rotating it. It will eventually brake(pun) loose.

-Chad

 

[Cheesehead]

I made the mistake of just propping up one wheel. I will lift the en tire (pun lol) up so I can rotate

 

[RickyRecon]

Bigger hammer. No need to be shy since you’re replacing the rotors. A couple good whacks with a 8-10lb sledge always works for me. No need to go full swing, just draw back a couple feet and let the hammer do the work.

 

[6500rpm]

Remove the caliper. Long bolt with nut and washer through one of the caliper holes and thread in to push against the rotor (you can put a piece of metal between the bolt and rotor to protect it while tightening). The bolt will put outward pressure against the rotor as you tighten it, so when you shock the rotor with the hammer it pushes it off. Rotate rotor as necessary, works like a charm.

 

[luigisho]

you can also put a hot torch on the rotor and see if a light expansion with some good whacks will free them

 

[Dpangbur]

The rotor should have a threaded hole at the bottom of the chamfer where you removed that flathead torx screw. That’s exactly what it is for. I think it is M8. Maybe only 2 threads deep but it is always enough to do the job. Just be sure not to cross-thread. That flat head torx not only holds the rotor for reassembly but more importantly it protects these threads from corrosion for this job. Good luck.


2013 MKS ecoboost
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[SHOrod]

One other trick, although I like the suggestion from 6500rpm better, is to put everything back together (except for the screw holding the rotor to the hub), but leave the wheel lugnuts slightly loose, then move the car a bit and step firmly on the brakes. The theory being the hub will be moving, the rotor will stop, and the rust/corrosion will brake free. I can't say I've ever tried this method, I've only heard about it. I typically got the route of a penetrating oil and BFH or air hammer.

-Rod

 

[shoblock]

I've done a dozen or so of these on Taurus, Edge, and Explorer. Mr. Sledge is my best friend. Mine is 8lb. I rotate the disc after each strike, and swing a little harder with each new try. Never failed.
SHOBLOCK

 

[sschepp]

Got my Powerstop kit with pads and rotors. I took everything off including the T-40 Torx bit that holds the rotor and the thing won't budge. I have sprayed it with Breakfree gun **** and Liquid Wrench silicone and nothing. I have been beating on the thing for 2 hours. Any suggestions?

I made a cut with a sawzall, that did the trick.

 

[rubydist]

Heating the rotor with a propane torch always works for me, even on the most rusted rotors. It will save you hours of whacking on it with the hammer.

 

[Cheesehead]

Remove the caliper. Long bolt with nut and washer through one of the caliper holes and thread in to push against the rotor (you can put a piece of metal between the bolt and rotor to protect it while tightening). The bolt will put outward pressure against the rotor as you tighten it, so when you shock the rotor with the hammer it pushes it off. Rotate rotor as necessary, works like a charm.

Yes! This totally worked

 

[6500rpm]

Sure as shit on my own SHO, despite hosing with penetrating oil, heating with a propane torch, and beating the snot out of it (properly) mine (front) failed to release. I'm a proponent of resurfacing good rotors as they've already thermo cycled and stress relieved and didn't want to do damage to the rotor, or hub. The bolt trick made short work of what was becoming an exercise in futility.

As posted by Depangbur, some applications use a threaded countersunk hole.

 

[Dpangbur]

I have a ‘13 Flex and a ‘13 MKS. I have changed the brakes at least twice on each and every set of rotors has had a threaded hole. I even keep the right size bolt (M10, not M8 as I stated earlier) in my toolbox next to my sockets so I don’t have to dig for it. No heat, no swinging a hammer, no trashed wheel bearings, and one could even resurface the rotors if so desired.

Maybe someone makes rotors without this hole threaded but I haven’t found them yet. It’s worth checking yours to potentially save time and effort.


2013 MKS ecoboost
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[Dpangbur]

But you asked for proof and not just me telling truth. Attached pic is from the last set from my Flex. Can only post one pic but front and rear rotors have the threaded hole at the bottom of the countersink.


2013 MKS ecoboost
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[6500rpm]

Well I'll be a sob, can't say I've ever noticed that on anything but there it is. So I'm guessing the hole in the hub is threaded like 6mm, and the rotor is 8mm with the countersink centering things? Next time I pull the wheels on the SHO I'm going to need to check. Dpangbur, definitely my bad. When I saw the post my mind went straight to 6mm threads in hub, same size threaded hole in the rotor=thread lock situation when you try to tighten the bolt. Now that I see your picture I understand what they did.

 

[Dpangbur]

Yep the size difference is not much and I was highly skeptical when I noticed it but after an hour of heating and beating I was willing to try it. It was a very humbling experience to hit that little bolt with the impact for like 2 seconds and the rotor jumped off the hub. I actually looked around to make sure no one saw the look on my face. Hope this saves someone from that frustration.


2013 MKS ecoboost
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[SeanDev]

Keep beating on it from the backside while rotating it. It will eventually brake(pun) loose.

-Chad

Only way I got mine off, alot of sledgehammer slinging.

 

[SeanDev]

Only way I got mine off, alot of sledgehammer slinging.

Wait till you get to bearings, the back ones will have you cussing and in pain.

 

[VwCSilent]

Old thread I know but in case someone searches in the future. I usually beat on the backside with a 8lb but I've had success pulling the wheel off, removing the brake hardware, removing the assembly screw from the rotor, reinstalling the wheel and putting the lugs on just until they touch. Then donkey kick the **** out of the tire towards the outside edge. Gives a nice lever action. Also have the added safety that if it comes off the jack stand somehow it lands safely on the tire and not with you under it.