Has spark, no fuel

[quick35th]

I am the new owner of a 93 SHO 5spd with 159k on it. It ran good but would randomly (only four times) bog/stumble while accelerating in 1st gear from a stop. It eventually just died on me when trying to pull out into an intersection. Funny thing was the majority of the time when it bogged/stumbled I was making a very slow speed right hand turn.

The fuel pump was not kicking on, I had a spare laying around so I replaced it, still no fuel pump! I found a 89 SHO CCRM, swapped it out and still not fuel pump! I swapped cut-off switch in truck, still no fuel pump?!

Today i was reading online and ran a hot wire to the pink/black wire at the CCRM and still no fuel pump! Ran hot wire to cut-off switch still no fuel pump!

I am debating on running a switch directly to the fuel pump and manually turning it on every time I wanna drive it.

Any suggestions before I go any balder?!

Shane

 

[jmpSHO]

Did you use the correct CCRM. I don't think a CCRM from an 89 will work on a 93. They have to have the same letter.

 

[projectSHO89]

Did you use the correct CCRM. I don't think a CCRM from an 89 will work on a 93. They have to have the same letter.

89-93 MTX use the "M" code CCRM. See the sticky in the electronics section for complete details.

quick35th:

Get a voltmeter and start taking readings along the path to the fuel pump. You should have battery voltage all the way to the tank and a good ground on the return line of the pump's power lead.

Sounds like your spare pump might not be any good or you have an open electrical circuit between the inertia switch and the pump,

 

[quick35th]

So I checked the voltage coming out of the CCRM on the pink/black hire which is the fuel pump power wire. With the ignition on I barely got any voltage, also when I would cycle the key on voltage did change but I may have had a volt or less total.

I found that in the under hood fuse box the 30amp EEC rely fuse was blow. I replaced that and still no fuel pump.

I found where the wiring for the fuel pump comes up into the car under the back seat, striped a little of the pink/black casing away from the copper wires and ran a wire from there all the way to the under hood fuse box which then the fuel pump came to life. Turned the engine over and it fired and ran smoothly

Right now I have the fuel pump wired to a switch to manually turn it on and off.

So what do you guys think went wrong?

Shane

 

[NEp8ntballer]

my guess is that your wiring is shorting out or corroded to **** and back somewhere along the way between where you stripped it away and the CCRM you got to it.

 

[quick35th]

New problem:

Car runs and drives fine for the most part but it keeps blowing the 30amp EEC Relay fuse under the hood.

So I imagine that one of the EEC grounds are bad. Where are the grounds for the EEC located?

On a possible unrelated issue I found that I have a valve cover leak and the vally plugs are leaking- I have oil in the plug holes on the front bank soaking the spark plug wires. Could there be any back-feeding going on there?

Thanks for all your help so far!

Shane

 

[NEp8ntballer]

if the circuit wasn't grounded current wouldn't flow to blow the fuse. what is very likely is that one of the wires off of the CCRM is corroded or broken and is shorting to ground pushing enough current to blow the fuse.

 

[quick35th]

UPDATE!

After looking some things over I found that the 50amp fuse for the cooling fan was blown (figured that out after it tried to over heat).

I am at my wits end with this car already. Idk what to look for or how to fix this thing.

Quistion, since the cooling fan blowing is a new symptum and unrelated to my previous issues, could the alternator on the car have a faulty voltage regulator and its putting out to many amps causing things to blow? I do know the guy I got the car from put a junkyard alternator on it so maybe who knows. I could just have it tested to find out.

Did I forget to mention I suck at electrical shit.
Shane