Well, just bought a '95 ATX, and I'm trying to get to the bottom of this issue with the car not wanting to start.
The car will always eventually start. The issue is that the car will turn and try and start to no avail. Sometimes, the cranking slows way down, and it will barely want to turn. Sometimes, there is some loud noises coming from the engine when its trying to start as it's cutting out. It helps when I have my foot on the gas when trying to start. When it eventually starts, the car runs just fine. A few times though, while at a stop light, the car will feel like it's about to cut out, but never has.
At times, there has been some very noticeable lack of power while driving with this issue. The trans is sometimes slow to respond. The rpm guage sometimes doesn't respond and stays at 0 at start up, but eventually after driving for a few minutes or so, will read accurately. I was reading another thread and someone said this rpm needle not moving is a sign of a failed crank sensor.
So, here's the breakdown:
-ran the codes--the fuel pump primes, and so does the fuel pump relay (IRMC/CCRM), but I don't hear the fan come on. What do I check for with the fan not coming on? Haven't seen the thermostat needle higher than usual so far, nonetheless.
---codes:
In the key on position:
-212-IDM circuit failure/SPOUT circuit grounded
-214-CID circuit failure
-511-EEC Processor ROM test failure
Car on:
-521-PSPS circuit did not change states
-536-BOO circuit failure
-538-Operator error (dynamic response/cylinder balance tests).
-543-Fuel pump secondary circuit failure
-632-?-don't know but I think this is tranny code territory
In addition, my oil light has from time to time blinked vigorously. The oil level is fine though!
Can this all be a failing crank sensor and/or cam sensor?
Any thoughts would be great, especially explaining to me what these codes mean. I slightly understand that one or two of these codes are due to having an LPM installed.
Also, I just had a tranny swap, but this issue was with the car before the tranny swap. Would that 632 code be because of this? How do you clear the codes again?
Thanks.....
The car will always eventually start. The issue is that the car will turn and try and start to no avail. Sometimes, the cranking slows way down, and it will barely want to turn. Sometimes, there is some loud noises coming from the engine when its trying to start as it's cutting out. It helps when I have my foot on the gas when trying to start. When it eventually starts, the car runs just fine. A few times though, while at a stop light, the car will feel like it's about to cut out, but never has.
At times, there has been some very noticeable lack of power while driving with this issue. The trans is sometimes slow to respond. The rpm guage sometimes doesn't respond and stays at 0 at start up, but eventually after driving for a few minutes or so, will read accurately. I was reading another thread and someone said this rpm needle not moving is a sign of a failed crank sensor.
So, here's the breakdown:
-ran the codes--the fuel pump primes, and so does the fuel pump relay (IRMC/CCRM), but I don't hear the fan come on. What do I check for with the fan not coming on? Haven't seen the thermostat needle higher than usual so far, nonetheless.
---codes:
In the key on position:
-212-IDM circuit failure/SPOUT circuit grounded
-214-CID circuit failure
-511-EEC Processor ROM test failure
Car on:
-521-PSPS circuit did not change states
-536-BOO circuit failure
-538-Operator error (dynamic response/cylinder balance tests).
-543-Fuel pump secondary circuit failure
-632-?-don't know but I think this is tranny code territory
In addition, my oil light has from time to time blinked vigorously. The oil level is fine though!
Can this all be a failing crank sensor and/or cam sensor?
Any thoughts would be great, especially explaining to me what these codes mean. I slightly understand that one or two of these codes are due to having an LPM installed.
Also, I just had a tranny swap, but this issue was with the car before the tranny swap. Would that 632 code be because of this? How do you clear the codes again?
Thanks.....
Last edited:
I didn't even think to just take the CID sensor off of my blown engine SHO and put it in the recently acquired one. 
