Got my intake off - Need some trained eyes for a few ?'s

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40BelowSummer

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Talk about a PITA, it will be a pita to get it back together.

Well I am definately doing the valve adjustment now. But I dont have tools, especially after I just ordered all the gaskets, plugs, wires etc.

Will anyone be willing to rent me their kit? I will pay for shipping and everything. If anyone is interested in helpin me out PM me.

Thanks guys
 

gosho89

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Yes, you need to remove the rear support brackets. I use a 12mm box end ratchet style and wear a pair of mechanic gloves so skin will remain on my hands especialy on the passanger side. To help assist in this procedure I suggest you use a larger screw driver to move things out of the way so to see what your doing. Once the brackets are removed use a couple of zip ties connected together to pull the bracket and wire loom along the firewall out of the way for easier R&R of the rear V/C. I use the slots under the hood or the A/C lines at the fire wall to fasten them to. One last thing, I've found it best to apply a small bead of permatex gasket maker in the channel on the far back side of the rear v/c, install the gasket into the channel, let it setup for 15min before installing the v/c onto the engine.

<small>[ February 25, 2004, 11:13 AM: Message edited by: gosho89 ]</small>
 

Dr. Tweak

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guiter333:

I'll tell you bro, the second time you do this it will be WAY easier, that's why I said to do it for practice. My suggestion would be to get the new intake gaskets and put it all back together, then get ALL the parts and tools that you'll need and then do it.

Yes, you do need to remove the rear brackets, I think that pic is missing in my instructions, I will be fixing that...

That idea of using permatex on the rear valve cover is not bad at all...

Also you can rent my kit, the thing is that I'm going to be doing Shaun's 60K in 2 weeks with them and I'm VERY weary of sending them out right now... :(

Another option is to buy them, they are about $50 for both, but by the time you get them you might as well wait and borrow mine.

You're doing good, keep it up!
 

SonicRiot

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Clean that carmalized crap out of there first. That stuff will make you cams wear faster. I will most likely get flamed for saying this, but whatever...conventional oil tends to carmalize much quicker and worse on cams than fully synthetic. I'd say go fully synthetic (Mobil 1 or Castrol GTX) and change it every 3000 miles.
 

AutoSHO

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Castrol GTX is not synthetic. It is a good dino oil.

No oil changed every 3k miles will carmelize. When oil changes go long and the engine is subject to severe conditions, then you will see the carmel form.
 

40BelowSummer

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i plan on switching to castrol gtx because of all the good reviews.

Anything to be carefull of while cleaning up in there?
 

40BelowSummer

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BTW i will buy the gaskets for now and just plan on the 60K this summer. but that "sewing diesel ticking" noise is makin me nervous.

thanks for the offer on the tools josh, but keep 'em. Ill get a hold of you late this spring or early this summer wink

my intake to head gaskets are show alot of silver and one of them was missing the rubber tabs right from when I pulled them,
gasket.JPG

could a not-so-good intake to head seal cause weird noises similar to what i heard?
 

AutoSHO

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Those seals would not cause that noise, no.

Did you read my post above? You never responded. Are the chains actually tight everywhere? You should not be able to deflect them at all really, they should be very tight.
 

40BelowSummer

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chains actually do feel pretty tighht to me. I have seen pics (neshospecialists.com) where the chain has slack and mine isnt even close to that.

if i buy new gaskets for intake-to-head do you think i will need to buy them again when i remove my intake next time?
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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Do you have any pics of the underside of the Valve covers?
Specifically the humps where the cam sprockets and chains are located when the covers are on the motor?
 

gosho89

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"if i buy new gaskets for intake-to-head do you think i will need to buy them again when i remove my intake next time?"

No, I would replace them at every 60k-100k mile service. Part number E9DZ-9439-A $12.49 each from Ford.
 
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