Fuel pump won't prime

[Calypso]

So I'm trying to get my car started again and the fuel pump won't prime. I'm not sure why. I checked the little switch in the trunk and it is not tripped. I also tripped it and reset it. The thing is, the pump primed after I hit the deer for a week or two, then I noticed that it wouldn't prime anymore. I don't know if it has something to do with the CCRM or the wiring or whatnot. I'm currently trying to trace the ground and the power wire back from the CCRM to see if one of them may have been cut or something. And I tried swapping the CCRM with another of the same letter code, but it didn't do anything. Plus mine looked to be in better condition so I think I'll just keep mine in there. But anyways, does anybody have any idea what else it could be, other than a faulty fuel-pump? Is there any reason to think it's the fuel pump itself? I just don't understand why it would have been working fine after I hit the deer and then all the sudden just quit priming... Maybe the battery needs more power or something, I dunno.

Any help anybody?
Thanks

 

[projectSHO89]

Fer goodness sake, you have to identify which car you're working on.

There are several variations among all the SHOs.

 

[SuperHO]

it would be the blue 90 in his sig..

 

[SinisterSHO]

Did you check the shut off? I'd lean towards the CCRM.

Does everything else seem normal? Rad fan running? Does the check engine light look like its not as bright as it should be?

 

[Calypso]

Did you check the shut off? I'd lean towards the CCRM.

Does everything else seem normal? Rad fan running? Does the check engine light look like its not as bright as it should be?

The check engine light does look dim. I noticed that yesterday but didn't think much of it. But I switched the CCRM and that didn't do anything, which doesn't mean I didn't get a bad CCRM but I dunno. Why would the CEL be dim? And the Rad fan isn't hooked up yet so it's not running for that reason...

 

[Calypso]

Oh, and I guess I should say this too. I looked at the EEC test page on shotimes and it showed that one little connector in the EEC plug that is for the fuel pump. It said that if that is grounded out, the fuel pump should run constant. I grounded it and got nothing, which means either my pump is bad or there is no power going to the pump (or possibly that the wire going from the pump to the EEC tester is messed up, but I'm guessing that's not the problem). I tried tracing both the ground and power wires from the EEC and they all seem to be good from what I can see. So I dunno. SuperHO told me he's got a new stock pump, so I might just throw that in there and see what happens...

 

[ViPER1313]

Easy way to test the pump is to run a wire to the connector for the accident trip switch in the trunk directly from the positive terminal of the battery. Also works as a ghetto fix for a dead CCRM - just add a fuse and a switch inside the car.

 

[Calypso]

Well I'm also going to try and install the CCRM from my old SHO into this one cause it's the same code and I know it works, so that'll tell me if the CCRM is bad or not. But I'll also try the wire from the positive terminal too...

 

[SinisterSHO]

I had a bad CCRM and the check engine light was just dim when something was wrong. Hit it with a screw driver handle or something and see if it makes a difference

 

[St Louis SHO]

CCRM wiring is messed up or CCRM is bad, trust me. Steve is right. I had that problem with his car while I had it here in St Louis.

- James

 

[Calypso]

Alright, thanks. I'll try that. Hopefully it's not the wiring... I've already got enough of that to fix...

 

[JoesSHO]

Matt- dumb suggestion- if the CCRM isn't bad, but it sounds like it might be... check the inertia fuel shutoff switch wiring- On my old '89 Probe GT, the wiring somehow corroded going to the switch and the pump wouldn't work even though the switch wasn't triggered. Worth a look, it's a free fast thing to do. Also, the fuel pump relay if you haven't done so, but I'm sure you've checked all the easy stuff...

 

[Calypso]

Well, I got the pump to run. Did what viper1313 suggested and ran the wire to the inertia switch and it got the pump to run. SOooooo...... That means it's either the CCRM or the wiring up by the CCRM, right?

And no, I didn't check the fuel pump relay. If the relay was bad, would it still run if I did what I did?

 

[Calypso]

Ohhh, and one other question. If I'm looking at the wiring, would I just be checking the fuel pump wiring in the CCRM or the grounds to the CCRM, too?

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Did you ever pull the codes ?

One of the relays tested during the KOEO test, is the CCRM fuel pump relay.

Posted last week . . . .

First, how are you validating that you have fuel and spark?

Second, a dimming [ CHECK ENGINE ] Light indicates an electrical problem/short.

Third, have you pulled the codes?


Simply pulling one plug-wire to check for spark or checking the shradder valve for fuel does not mean the car is getting sufficient spark or fuel pressure. The easiest way to check for a bad coil is to swap-in a known working coil. In order the check fuel pressure, you should either borrow or rent a fuel pressure testing kit.

If during prove-out the CEL dims, but the other cluster lights do not, the CCRM is most likely bad. If all the cluster lights dim, then you have an eletrical problem - bad battery cables and/or connectors, bad battery, bad starter, harness short, (ICM in vehicles that have them), and/or bad ECM .

What codes did you get? What codes you get (or cannot get) will give you a starting-point for trouble-shooting the problem. Otherwise you're likely to get ass-***** by a dealer or shop that has little experience with the SHO engine/electronics.

 

[ViPER1313]

If the pump runs 99% of the time it's the CCRM. I could smell the burnt electronics on mine when I pulled it out. But while I was waiting for the part to come in I ran a wire from

underhood fusebox -> fuse > through firewall -> switch on center console -> inerta switch in trunk.

Just had to be careful not to leave the fuel pump running after I parked. The car also felt like it gained 20hp after doing it - I think the CCRM was on it's way out for a while.

 

[shoshirtsandhat]

Disconnect the battery ,drop the tank and replace the fuel pump & fuel filter, not for nothing but @ least your problem may be solved ????

When was the fuel pump replaced last ? Just so you know my pump is brand new and I do not hear it going flutterr every time I start my 94 ATX but it starts fine .. Hope it helps you ...
YOU SAID YOU GOT THE PUMP TO RUN DID YOU HAVE ANY PRESSURE @ THE REGULATOR?????????

 

[Calypso]

Not sure about pressure at the regulator but I imagine so. I think the problem is in the CCRM or the wiring, given the dim CEL and everything else. I know the pump is not the problem now.

I haven't pulled any codes mainly for the fact that there are alot of unplugged wires in the engine bay. Well, not alot, but a few around the radiator support area since they got damaged when I hit the deer. I'm heading to the junkyard tomorrow to get the right radiator and fan since I got one out of an ATX . I'm gonna pick up a CCRM and some other little thing there too, so hopefully I can get this thing done tomorrow or Saturday. But yeah, thanks for all the help so far everyone. I'm about 3 hours of work away from getting this car done :woohoo: Now hopefully my spark plug wires held up well enough that they'll work for a little while...

 

[shoshirtsandhat]

DIDNT YOU SWAP CCRM'S? O WELL PLUG ALL THE LOOSE CONNECTIONS IN AND CALL US IN THE MORNING..bad ground wire prob.LOL.HAVE A GOOD 1......MANY BLESSINGS >**** deer,isnt that a bird

 

[Calypso]

Yeah, I swapped CCRMs, but the one I swapped it with looks worse than the one that was in my car. HOPEFULLY the junkyard I'm going to today by some chance got an MTX SHO in with an M code CCRM... Otherwise I'll have to just wire a switch in for the time being... We'll see...