fuel pump relay

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rdavidrees

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Not meaning to hijack this thread, but I am having a similar problem with my Gen 1. Fuel pump doesn't prime or run when ignition key is turned on. I am at the stage of suspecting the fuel pump relay or the pump itself. I tried the grounding through the EEC test connector and the pump did not run. My question is, when I do this test, should the fuel pump run regardless of if the pump relay is good or bad? I think the problem started when my a/c compressor locked up. The wiring schematics show the compressor circuit running through the fuel pump relay box. Car sat for 4 months and has 143k on it. Fuel pump has never been replaced that I know of. Worked fine before the a/c problem though!
 

thecrew2999

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i think its probley the relay box your having the problem with... if you need one i got one from my 92 3.0 that worked i mean its beat but you can have it to test im not 100% sure it works since i tested it on my car but since mine it atx it might just not work...

that relay makes the pump run and if its bad as i learned the fuel pump will not prime at all reguardless of what you do... after that if it dont work change the pump and i got a spare for you also thats a walbro if you want.

i say cut a hole in the floor as i learned the hard way since the tank is sorta a bitch even tho i dropped it and all myself.
 

rdavidrees

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Was able to locate another M-code relay box from another local SHO enthusiat and am still not getting the pump to prime or run. I am also not hearing the relay click when the ignition is turned on as was mentioned in other posts. Had my neighbor turn the ign switch on and I listened. Is there a fusible link in the line that provides power to the relay box? I may take you up on the Walbro pump. I will pm you a bit later for details. To the person who made the original thread post, I'm really sorry if it seems like I hijacked this thread. Hopefully my questions will help with your problem too.
 

SASHO91

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IIRC, there IS a fusible link....

have you verifying it with the grounding method on the EEC test port?
 

SHOZ123

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There is a fuse link in the older SHOs. Might look at the wire diagrams in the "How To" section.
 

SHOck

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Bogging when pressing the pedal... clean the MAF. A dirty MAF is a slow reacting MAF. Engine getting much more air than the MAF is letting on... causes stalling at tip-in...
 

thecrew2999

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ill give it a shot i mean i got a lot of stuff i gotta go threw... funny part is i need to figure out where the noise is coming from tho because it didnt do this till i put new head gaskets on


ill let everyone know and thanks for the input
 

rdavidrees

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SASHO: On my fuel pump issue, I did try the grounding at the EEC port both with the ignition on and off with no reaction either way.

When I turn the ignition switch on, shouldn't I be hearing a click from my fuel pump relay box regardless of hearing the fuel pump running noise if the circuit is energized?
 

SHOZ123

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The fuel pump is only on for a few seconds if the key is in run and the engine is not running. To really test the fuel pump apply 12V+ to the inertia switch leads going to the pump.

You probably will not hear a click as the relay is inside the CCRM.
 

TYSHO

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rdavidrees said:
When I turn the ignition switch on, shouldn't I be hearing a click from my fuel pump relay box regardless of hearing the fuel pump running noise if the circuit is energized?

Yes, you should hear one click and another one 2 seconds later if you haven't tried to start the motor. If you don't hear any clicks, most likely your module is bad. To confirm this, you need to check for power coming to the fuel relay wire. IIRC, that would be pin #5.
 

artsho

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You said you did a 3.2 swap.......Are you using the 3.0 Intake? There is a difference between the 3.2 and 3.0
 

rdavidrees

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TYSHO: I am not getting any voltage reading at pin #5 on the plug going into the fuel pump relay module. Any suggestions on where to look for the problem? It would seem that maybe I blew a fusible link. According to the wiring diagram for 1991 SHO's, fusible link J supplies power to the module. Anyone know where this is? Thanks.
 

projectSHO89

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rdavidrees said:
TYSHO: I am not getting any voltage reading at pin #5 on the plug going into the fuel pump relay module. Any suggestions on where to look for the problem? It would seem that maybe I blew a fusible link. According to the wiring diagram for 1991 SHO's, fusible link J supplies power to the module. Anyone know where this is? Thanks.

This test presumes you satisfied the prerequisite conditions for checking for voltage at pin 5, ie, ignition switch to RUN and the FP test pin of the EEC selt test connector grounded (energizes the FP relay inside the IRCM).

Check pin 12 (BLK/ORG) for battery voltage. If present, the relay inside the IRCM is probably bad.

If no voltage at pin 12, check the fuse link H which is connected, along with several others, to the starter relay's battery supply terminal.

Steve
 
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rdavidrees

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ProjectSHO89: I finally got a good day to perform this test. I am getting 12v at pins 1,2,11,12,13. Nothing at pin 5. Also getting 5v at pin 24. Should I be seing voltage at pin 5 (with ignition on) as mentioned earlier in the thread or am I good? I have swapped IRCM's with another doner car that was supposedly good. The swap did not help the situation. Do I just have a bad fuel pump? Thanks again for your help.
 

thecrew2999

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artsho said:
You said you did a 3.2 swap.......Are you using the 3.0 Intake? There is a difference between the 3.2 and 3.0


dont know if you mean me on that one but im using the 3.0 intake without egr and the side tube where the DIS mounts im using the 3.2 intake piece olny because it seems air will flow better in there.
 

thecrew2999

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would the IAB make a difference because i kept the one from the 3.0 intake on while the 3.2 was different.. the 3.0 was a 92 and the 3.2 was a 93.
remember the 93 3.2 was oringionally there.

im also using the 3.0 throttle body with the 3.0 tps.

everything worked fine before i did all this mind you
 

thecrew2999

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i dont really know what the difference in IAB is but i know the 92 is long and the 93 is shorter.

one question i got is how do you know the tentioners are bad? i mean i could pull the front one up by hand but then it stayed in position, it drops back to where it was after a few mins.

i think my noise is coming from the tentioners.
 
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