93rev2sev
SHO Member
I was thinking a runner hose...or 2. If the intake was powdercoated, there could be a dozen small vac leaks adding up to one big flop in performance.
feels slower after complete 60 k and bbb
- Thread starter shoclown
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
93rev2sev
SHO Member
loosen all the large intake couplers, loosen the intake to head bolts, make sure that bish is seated properly on the heads, torque it down AND THEN re-tighten the couplers.
If the intake was powdercoated, did you mask off the intake to head mating surface? If that ****** was powdercoated, it WILL NOT SEAL.
If the intake was powdercoated, did you mask off the intake to head mating surface? If that ****** was powdercoated, it WILL NOT SEAL.
Last edited:
shoclown
shoclown
i will try to loosen and retighten intake etc.
when the intake was removed for the 60k i replaced all the hoses, all new vaccum lines all new coolant hoses etc. i still have the trottle body bypassed . i checked for vacuum leaks using h20 and looking for stall then used 4 gas and propane to check again.
one the idle it seems a little rough but does not try to die or stumble.
i did find the egr steel tube has a small exhaust leak that was fixed with wrap temporally. i will head out to pick a part to try and find one or at least a templete to make one.
how elese could i check the timming? belt marks visual and timing kight any other ideas???
when the intake was removed for the 60k i replaced all the hoses, all new vaccum lines all new coolant hoses etc. i still have the trottle body bypassed . i checked for vacuum leaks using h20 and looking for stall then used 4 gas and propane to check again.
one the idle it seems a little rough but does not try to die or stumble.
i did find the egr steel tube has a small exhaust leak that was fixed with wrap temporally. i will head out to pick a part to try and find one or at least a templete to make one.
how elese could i check the timming? belt marks visual and timing kight any other ideas???
1995SHO9
FLEES ARE COMIN
If your looking for an intake leak, spray it down with break clean, and if it stumbles, you've just found your problem.
~Johnathon~
~Johnathon~
93rev2sev
SHO Member
Timing light will only measure spark timing. If you want to check the cam timing, you will need to remove the lower and upper timing covers. Then, you will need to rotate the crank until the index dot lines up with the bump on the oil pump(about 5:00). Once there, confirm that the cam index dots are at 12:00. If not...rotate the crank 360° and check again.
Pull your plug wires one by one and make sure the car stumbles a bit each time. Use something non conductive to remove the wires so you don't zap yourself too bad.
LJRuddy
Pop lock n drop
Keep in mind that once you install the timing belt and rotate the engine, the timing belt "white lines" will NEVER align perfectly again. To check for cam timing, here is what to look for.
Your cam sprocket (on crankshaft) has an indented dot on one of the sprocket's teeth. When the crankshaft has cylinder 1 aligned to TDC, this indention on the sprocket will aign perfectly with a line that is on the lower timing belt cover (see pic below). This raised surface on the lower timing belt cover will be located at the 5 o' clock position if you are looking at the sprocket from the passenger wheel well.
Next, pull your top timing belt cover. Your 2 belt sprockets also have an indented dot (for some reason, mine had a paint marking from a paint pen) that rests exactly on one of the sprocket's teeth. These dots, on both upper belt sprockets, should be aligned EXACTLY at a 12 o' clock position. The back side of the timing belt cover (the sheet of metal that bolts to the timing belt cover) has 2 raised lines that are also at the 12 o' clock position behind the cam sprockets. The indented dot on the 2 upper timing belt sprockets should be aligned perfectly with these 2 raised surfaces on the back of the timing belt cover. (see pic below)
If all of that aligns, remove the valve covers and check your cams.
Look at the timing chains sprockets that are attached to the cams themselves. You will notice that these sprockets are attached by 2 10mm bolts that are exactly 180 degrees apart from each other. Now look at the cam chains. The chains will have 2 links that are different from the rest (cant remember if they are darker or what... its been a while since I have seen them in person). These "different" links should be centered on those 2 10mm bolts. To make sure the cams are in time with each other, those 10mm bolts should be aligned with the surface of the head where the valve cover seals to the heads. Here is a picture to help show what I am talking about here as I am sure I have lost you I circled the 2 10mm bolts that need to be aligned with those chain links. The arrow points to where those bolts should be resting at. Again, those bolts need to be parallel to the top of the surface of the head. Maybe someone will have a better picture for you. I lost a ton of helpful SHO pictures so this is as best as I can do.
Pic was taken from www.shophoenixproject.com and modified by me.
Also, here are some pictures taken from my 3.0MTX of the timing marks for the timing belt.
Here is a picture of the raised surface for the 2 cam sprockets at the top of the engine. You will find a dot on these belt sprockets that should match up to these raised lines on the cover.
Hopefully I explained that in a somewhat coherant manner. Best of luck bro!
EDIT: Here's a few more pictures that will really make things clear for ya. Don't ask how I got ahold of this little book
Here's how your cam chains should look when they are aligned.
See where the valve cover seals up against the surface of the head? Your chain sprocket bolts and those chain links should all be aligned even with the surface of your head.
And a diagram straight out of the Ford Taurus SHO mechanics manual of where all of the timing marks are located for the timing belt.
Your cam sprocket (on crankshaft) has an indented dot on one of the sprocket's teeth. When the crankshaft has cylinder 1 aligned to TDC, this indention on the sprocket will aign perfectly with a line that is on the lower timing belt cover (see pic below). This raised surface on the lower timing belt cover will be located at the 5 o' clock position if you are looking at the sprocket from the passenger wheel well.
Next, pull your top timing belt cover. Your 2 belt sprockets also have an indented dot (for some reason, mine had a paint marking from a paint pen) that rests exactly on one of the sprocket's teeth. These dots, on both upper belt sprockets, should be aligned EXACTLY at a 12 o' clock position. The back side of the timing belt cover (the sheet of metal that bolts to the timing belt cover) has 2 raised lines that are also at the 12 o' clock position behind the cam sprockets. The indented dot on the 2 upper timing belt sprockets should be aligned perfectly with these 2 raised surfaces on the back of the timing belt cover. (see pic below)
If all of that aligns, remove the valve covers and check your cams.
Look at the timing chains sprockets that are attached to the cams themselves. You will notice that these sprockets are attached by 2 10mm bolts that are exactly 180 degrees apart from each other. Now look at the cam chains. The chains will have 2 links that are different from the rest (cant remember if they are darker or what... its been a while since I have seen them in person). These "different" links should be centered on those 2 10mm bolts. To make sure the cams are in time with each other, those 10mm bolts should be aligned with the surface of the head where the valve cover seals to the heads. Here is a picture to help show what I am talking about here as I am sure I have lost you I circled the 2 10mm bolts that need to be aligned with those chain links. The arrow points to where those bolts should be resting at. Again, those bolts need to be parallel to the top of the surface of the head. Maybe someone will have a better picture for you. I lost a ton of helpful SHO pictures so this is as best as I can do.
Pic was taken from www.shophoenixproject.com and modified by me. Also, here are some pictures taken from my 3.0MTX of the timing marks for the timing belt.
Here is a picture of the raised surface for the 2 cam sprockets at the top of the engine. You will find a dot on these belt sprockets that should match up to these raised lines on the cover.
Hopefully I explained that in a somewhat coherant manner. Best of luck bro!
EDIT: Here's a few more pictures that will really make things clear for ya. Don't ask how I got ahold of this little book
Here's how your cam chains should look when they are aligned.
See where the valve cover seals up against the surface of the head? Your chain sprocket bolts and those chain links should all be aligned even with the surface of your head.
And a diagram straight out of the Ford Taurus SHO mechanics manual of where all of the timing marks are located for the timing belt.
Last edited:
elarm1
Maryland Native
Check to see if your secondaries plug is plugged in. Make sure the gap is correct on spark plugs. Ive had an instant where I was given incorrect gap for plugs
shoclown
shoclown
i already checked and replaced plugs...the electriacal switch is hooked up and the secoundaries are working correctly...it just feels like a slug?
SHObill
'The Collector'
-Better yet, swap to a completely stock intake, bet you will get that 'feeling' back!
93rev2sev
SHO Member
Who are you and what have you done with Bill Saunders?!
Bill would NEVER advocate stock over ported!
SHObill
'The Collector'
Haha- but Yes, I do advocate stock over a PARTIALLY ported intake!
Stock horns to Butterfly's to short runners are a consistent dia & allow smooth quiet flow. Changing just one section (BBB's) &/or removing horns just adds turbulence=noise which reduces velocity=volume.
jthod
Mr. Goodwrench
Most brake clean is non-flammable any more, use ether, carb cleaner, or throttle cleaner.
A small crack in a runner coupler will make a HUGE idle problem.
38SHO
#1 Oil Abuser
check fuel pressure, check vacuum, check fuel filter, check MAF
platoribs
Live to Drive
Hey Clown! Did you get your car fixed?:sun:
1) Did you leave the plates in the BBBs? Stock Plates?
2) Did you reset the idle?
3) Check the timing?
2) Did you reset the idle?
3) Check the timing?
SHOracer14
Me-0 Diffs-6
I was wondering if anything was discovered yet as well?
Similar threads
