feels slower after complete 60 k and bbb

[shoclown]

okay so i just did a complete 60 k rod bearings cam seals rear main clutch h20 pump timming belt etc.
i did the bottom then drove for a week and then did top and front. while i was in there i replaced witk bbb and acid ported the intake.
the car feels slower???? it seems to running okay i even pulled the front cover to check the timing belt for correct alignment.any ideas??

 

[93rev2sev]

It's quieter.
Quiet always feels slow.

 

[shoclown]

no not very much quiter..valves were okay. sewcoundarys are louder but it does not have that pull, before you could feel it push you in the seat a little when dropping from 5th to 3rd.. and it would go from 50 to 95 fast...now it does not have the pull and when you drop it to 3rd from 5th it takes a lot longer to get up to even 75.

the biggest thing i noticed is when getting on the freeway from the light. i have always been able to get upto about 70 or so and now it feels like its struggling to get to 50???

 

[93rev2sev]

Sounds like it might be mis-timed, but you said you double checked that.

Swap on some regular butterflies and try again.

 

[sho_sc]

You do hear the secondaries open?

 

[93rev2sev]

good point.


Rev it with the hood open and look for the Butterflies to actuate at 4000RPM

 

[jthod]

$10 says they are stuck open (no bottom end torque), or stuck closed (no top end)

 

[1995SHO9]

I agree, it sounds like the secondaries arn't opening. Unplug the electrical connection around the black canister for the secondaries. It will be on the rights side of it while the car is running and make sure they close and open correctly when you unplug it.

~Johnathon~

 

[shoclown]

i checked to make sure that at around 4k the butter flyies get vacuum and start to open.
i thought they might be stuck but they are closed at bottom end and the noise they make make me think they are opening. with vacuum gauge hooked up and taped to window they get vacuum at around 4k.
i pulled the cover back to check timing and the belt looks good? all lines line up? timing looks good and changes with spout connect and disconnect.

i get a puff of smoke out of the exhaust now when i go wide open hard. it looks like fuel. plugs look ok as far as color. any thing else? any help is greatly apreciated

 

[93rev2sev]

From your last post, I cannot tell if you have VISUAL confirmation that the secondaries are actuating.

Please let us know.

 

[SHOracer14]

Just pull the codes to double check and see if anything pops up. I'm wondering if the car will throw a SpOUT code. If the jumper is not getting good connection or the connector is pulled away from the terminals you will have 10 degrees total timing throughout the rev range.

 

[1995SHO9]

Is it possible you messed up the spark plug wire placement. I know they are incorrect in one of the service manuals....

 

[93rev2sev]

If he has wires crossed, it'll spit and backfire and he won't get out of the driveway without ignoring BIG clues.

 

[93rev2sev]

Just pull the codes to double check and see if anything pops up. I'm wondering if the car will throw a SpOUT code. If the jumper is not getting good connection or the connector is pulled away from the terminals you will have 10 degrees total timing throughout the rev range.

yep that's another real good thing to confirm. There's one by the coil and one by the cam sensor.

 

[SHO.fast]

Do your gaskets match your new ported intake?

 

[SHO GoDz 89]

I agree, it sounds like the secondaries arn't opening. Unplug the electrical connection around the black canister for the secondaries. It will be on the rights side of it while the car is running and make sure they close and open correctly when you unplug it.

~Johnathon~

X2. My BBB's were stuck closed so I unpluged them and left them open, I lose a bit of low end TQ, but it doesn't matter, it pulls great once it gets to 4k.

 

[platoribs]

I and a few others are of the opinion that if the BBB's aren't fairly tight when closed, the leakage has an effect. My Bluie after IllSHOu worked on it pulls real nice down low. My Green car is there now and it has felt kinda slo/low with somewhat poorly sealed butterflys. I guess I'll know after I get it back fixed.

 

[shoclown]

i checked some more stuff last night.

1. i am absolutly sure the bbb are opening and closing correctly.
2. i double checked the firing order and wires are correct.
3. when looking at the secoundary ign patterns it looks like i need some wires soon but no miss or cross fire now.
4. i pulled the plugs and replaced with the oem ngk repl ( had some colder plugs in installing no2 as soon as problem is fixed)
5. i rechecked the timming belt install.
6. i disconnected the apexi piggy back vtec controller ( was using to delay bbb and adj fuel)
7. it is currently a stock 89 3.0 with bolt ones only. 9 bolt on stuff is as follows in case i am overlooking anything.... oil catch can between oil baffle pcv and valve cover bung.... the BBB and acid ported runners.... the fuel psi is now stock again.. i even put the stock y pipe on ( worried about super heating catts with current problem) replaced the fuel injectors with oem... replaced the maf sensor with oem.

8. it actually feels like the timing is incorect.. rougher idle and just feels off. is there any way i could of put the wrong pulley gear on the incorrect cam? is there any identifying marks on them?

the car idles at 750 to 850 rpm and the timing does retard when either spout is pulled...well one spout and one octane shorting bar. (one drops 10 degress min and one drops 3-4 deegrees.

is there another way i can double check timing belt? i followed the book and alldata as well as refernces from the pheniox sho site.

i also checked the power and ground locations...even added a couple jumpers hoping it was paint or something on the intake etc..


any help please????? i have got to be over looking something dumb???

 

[93rev2sev]

Elimintate this:
Make sure the crank bolt is TIGHT. If not, remove damper and inspect for crank cancer.

Otherwise, I'd have to go with a vacuum leak...

Confirm all intake hoses are tight.

When you rev it a bit in neutral, Does the car want to stall as the RPMs are coming down? Do the RPMs bounce as it tries to return to idle?

 

[Eric VerValin]

I'd be leaning towards a vac leak too... costs about $5 to replace em all.. maybe a screwdriver... and 1 5/16 nutdriver. Stop @ Napa and do that for your crusty lines... I had an issue with a vac line once, and decided to rule those out of my future equations.


Edit: Maybe try resetting your idle... ? Maybe the computer is fighting itself.. ?