Engine running a bit hot....

[Crazy Phreak]

Hi guys . Just recently I got my hands on a 1989 SHO 5 speed. Well, the guy who sold me it neglected to mention the heat problem after extended driving (1 hr. + ). I was wondering, since I am not terribly gifted in diagnosing cars, if I could find some help here. I'll start by describing what goes on. After around 1 hour or so of driving in fairly warm temperatures (70 degrees) the car will stall on me. Once it stalls it takes a good 15 min. to be able to start it again and it stay running. What I have been doing to make it drivable is turning on the heater and rolling down the windows to pull some heat from the engine. If anyone can recommend a solution I would greatly appreciate it. I also ran the key codes and I come up with 14 , 49 , 83, and 87 for the Key On Engine Off Test. When I turn the Engine on I get code 21 (Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range) which I am imagining this is my main problem . Is there a cheap solution to fixing this?

 

[Funmart6]

I am no mechanic, but for starters I would flush the radiator really good and change the thermostat,next if that didn't solve the problem, I would check out the water pump.

 

[Crazy Phreak]

That's what I was told by a friend of mine. I got the Thermostat today and the sealant. Hoping tomorrow isn't windy so I can hopefully change it. Also, if the water pump happens to be the problem...how much would one run, and how much work is involved in that? I have done minor things under the hood of a car (Alternators, Relays, and Thermostats) but have never changed a water pump before.

 

[BeatDaSHO]

well u got the PIP code which is the cps. it stands for the crank position sensor. This is why your car is dying on you. Most likely, your water pump is leaking right onto the cps which is causing the stalling. It then has to sit for a little before starting. Get the A1 Cardone water pump from www.rockauto.com and get the crank position sensor also. good luck.

Greg

 

[Crazy Phreak]

Ok, thank you for the advice. Now for a really good question. How much work is involved in changing the water pump? I noticed there is not a whole ton of room looking from the top of the engine down, but how about if the car is up on ramps/lift? Would the car be ok to drive to my friends house (around 20-25 miles) ?

 

[DHMag]

getting to the water pump requires removing the belts, timing covers, timing belt, and right front wheel/tire. while youre in there, itd be a good idea to go ahead and change the timing belt too.

 

[Funmart6]

Only car I ever changed a water pump on was my 1990 Sable GS wagon, and it was fairly easy, I am sure that on a SHO it would be much more involved, at least on my 1997 SHO that is, it is pretty tight in there under that hood!

 

[haydenm315]

While you're down there, you should do the cps, front crank seal, inspect the woodruff key for wear and signs of cancer, timing belt, water pump, inspect idler pulley bearings, accessory belts, and inspect/replace the timing belt tensioner.

As far as the heat problem, I know my car does get up to the O in normal on a hot day if I'm in the city or doing stop and go traffic waiting at a light. If I'm moving, the needle is between r and m. My car used to run a little bit hotter and would get up to the N in normal before I did a full flush of the system including a reverse flush of the heater core.

You're looking at a pretty decent full day of work if you've never done it before and are taking your time. Don't cut yourself while taking off the water pump. I busted my knuckle real bad on a cam sprocket when taking the water pump off. It wasn't pretty. Good luck. I recommend buying a factory service manual and definately downloading the procedure from www.shotimes.com.

 

[SHO--ripper]

I think you need a new waterpump and it is leaking causing your CPS to fail(code #14). Don't forget to gap the CPS while you're doing this job. It should be gapped .30mm.haydenm315 is right,shotimes has a great how to on this job. Good luck and ask ?'s if you get stuck.