hawkeye18
Sorta cares
you're talking about the crank sensor. The cam sensor you can remove with an allen head (I think). It's right there at the top, inboard of the power steering pump.
Engine cranks but abruptly stops before start (with video)
- Thread starter rigol2000
- Start date
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socialdeviat
New Member
Nope the idiot who owned the car before me must've change em and put philips screws in there. PIA to get them since I dont have stubbys
I had to use a right angle screw driver thing from a table I just bought.
I had to use a right angle screw driver thing from a table I just bought.
rigol2000
Need a 60k
I put the new CID in this evening. I discovered that the CID had only one bolt in it. I ran down to advanced autoparts and found a same thread and length bolt but with a 7mm head. I replaced both so they'd match. The result: it's alive! I've now started it 6 times with no problems. Thanks for the help 
One of the funny things about all this is I discovered my check engine light had been removed. Now that it's working, I am getting a check engine light notification. My suspicion was one of the previous owners had it removed because they were tired of looking at it. I went ahead and checked the codes again. This is after the battery was out for 2 days. I first started it with out the accessory belt. Then I put it on and ran it for a while before getting my codes.
These are the codes in order:
Key On Engine Off:
327 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE
Key On Engine Running:
172 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right orr Rear HO2S - Fuel control
136 (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
327 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE
I have been suspecting O2 sensor problems because of the exhaust smell. Now that I can check my codes, I guess this confirms it. Any ideas on the EGR trouble?
Chris
One of the funny things about all this is I discovered my check engine light had been removed. Now that it's working, I am getting a check engine light notification. My suspicion was one of the previous owners had it removed because they were tired of looking at it. I went ahead and checked the codes again. This is after the battery was out for 2 days. I first started it with out the accessory belt. Then I put it on and ran it for a while before getting my codes.
These are the codes in order:
Key On Engine Off:
327 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE
Key On Engine Running:
172 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right orr Rear HO2S - Fuel control
136 (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
327 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE
I have been suspecting O2 sensor problems because of the exhaust smell. Now that I can check my codes, I guess this confirms it. Any ideas on the EGR trouble?
Chris
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93rev2sev
SHO Member
I've heard that sometimes the EGR tube cracks. That might cause problems.
shoteen95
isn't a teen :D
Glad you got it starting right : D
The other codes may be due to old, worn out Oxygen sensors. I replaced my original sensors at about 70k miles and noticed a nice increase in gas mileage.
What's with this exhaust smell you're talking about? Can you smell exhaust inside of the car? If so, that might be a cracked EGR tube as was mentioned earlier.
On EGR cars (all ATX's had EGR) the passageways in the intake that pass exhaust gases tend to get clogged up over time, until they can barely flow anything (imagine an artery full of plaque). It probably wouldn't hurt to remove your intake, disassemble the whole thing, and give every bit of it a good cleaning, especially the EGR passageways.
With the throttle body out of the way, you can really get a good look at what I'm talking about. Right behind the throttle you'll see 4 holes, the 2 at the bottom will probably look nasty and black. Thats where exhaust gas enters the intake. I believe there's a screw out plug on the bottom of the intake that makes cleaning the EGR passageways easier as well.
The other codes may be due to old, worn out Oxygen sensors. I replaced my original sensors at about 70k miles and noticed a nice increase in gas mileage.
What's with this exhaust smell you're talking about? Can you smell exhaust inside of the car? If so, that might be a cracked EGR tube as was mentioned earlier.
On EGR cars (all ATX's had EGR) the passageways in the intake that pass exhaust gases tend to get clogged up over time, until they can barely flow anything (imagine an artery full of plaque). It probably wouldn't hurt to remove your intake, disassemble the whole thing, and give every bit of it a good cleaning, especially the EGR passageways.
With the throttle body out of the way, you can really get a good look at what I'm talking about. Right behind the throttle you'll see 4 holes, the 2 at the bottom will probably look nasty and black. Thats where exhaust gas enters the intake. I believe there's a screw out plug on the bottom of the intake that makes cleaning the EGR passageways easier as well.
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Bizzy
SHO Member
- Joined
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You should probably clear your codes at this point by pulling the paper clip out while the codes are being displayed. Then let the car run for a day or so and recheck the codes. That way you'll have all current codes to work with rather than ones you've already addressed. Just a thought.
ohfosho
ontario SHOwner
it's interesting to note that a cam sensor can cause a no start condition eh?
been there, been through that.
been there, been through that.
rigol2000
Need a 60k
Thanks for the replies. Been away from my computer a few days. Home projects are higher than SHO projects at the moment.
I will investigate the EGR tube. As far as what the exhaust smells like, I don't know how to describe it. It just smells bad like an old beat up car. After running for a while, it does make it's way into the cabin. When I was replacing the CID, I tried to remove the left side of the intake for easier access, but the bolt holding that piece on was stuck. I sprayed it with PB to loosen it, but I don't think I had the right size socket since it was not real snug and began to strip.
I reset the codes and have drove it a few miles here and there. I will get the codes again this weekend. I kind of don't want to check because I don't need anymore things to fix My AC just stopped cooling recently, so ignorance may be bliss..... until I'm on the side of the road
I will investigate the EGR tube. As far as what the exhaust smells like, I don't know how to describe it. It just smells bad like an old beat up car. After running for a while, it does make it's way into the cabin. When I was replacing the CID, I tried to remove the left side of the intake for easier access, but the bolt holding that piece on was stuck. I sprayed it with PB to loosen it, but I don't think I had the right size socket since it was not real snug and began to strip.
I reset the codes and have drove it a few miles here and there. I will get the codes again this weekend. I kind of don't want to check because I don't need anymore things to fix
My AC just stopped cooling recently, so ignorance may be bliss..... until I'm on the side of the road
rigol2000
Need a 60k
:type: UPDATE
I cleared my codes and drove it around a few days. I pulled my codes this morning and came up with pretty much the same thing:
KOEO
327 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE
Memory codes:
172 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right orr Rear HO2S - Fuel control
176 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO22SSS - Fuel control
KOER
172 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right orr Rear HO2S - Fuel control
136 (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
327 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE
167 (R) No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation) - TPS
225 (R) Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS
I figure the 167 and 225 is nothing to worry about. The EGR is what I need to look into. After that, the O2 sensors seem to need replacing when I get the spare cash. I kind of don't want to mess with anything since it is running great. Seems to have more power than my 95 MTX!
I cleared my codes and drove it around a few days. I pulled my codes this morning and came up with pretty much the same thing:
KOEO
327 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE
Memory codes:
172 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right orr Rear HO2S - Fuel control
176 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO22SSS - Fuel control
KOER
172 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right orr Rear HO2S - Fuel control
136 (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
327 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE
167 (R) No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation) - TPS
225 (R) Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS
I figure the 167 and 225 is nothing to worry about. The EGR is what I need to look into. After that, the O2 sensors seem to need replacing when I get the spare cash. I kind of don't want to mess with anything since it is running great. Seems to have more power than my 95 MTX!
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