EEC Troubles

[Imnotsureyet]

Hooked up my obd code reader and it did not turn on. So I hit the power button and it turns on and it shuts down tried again and same thing. I check the power distribution box and find that a ten amp fuse is blown again this same fuse has been blown three times and when it blows the car will not start. I check every thing and find out that I'm not getting any fuel so I figured that I need a fuel pump. Go through all of this and same thing is still happening this is when I hooked up the code reader and find out that it well not work and a friend of mine sees this and tells me that my eec is not working and that I need a new one. Can any one confirm this for me and possibly let me know where I can get a new one from? And if so maybe one with some upgrades if you know what I mean because I'm just imnotsureyet.

Ps I need this fast because I'm now on foot trying to get to work and this sucks and I love my 1992 SHO 3.0 and don't have much how ever I feel I deserve one thing In life after all I've done to help others my hole life. Can't I just have a car I like without going broke? I don't think that's asking too much.

Thanking you all in advance because imnotsureyet!!!!

 

[Irish Pride]

You can run power directly to the fuel pump by jumping the test lead under the hood. If it powers up by doing this then i'd say you probably have an issue with the CCRM. Try giving it a few good thumps with the handle of a large screwdriver. A lot of times that will free up a stuck relay and start working again. If the pump doesnt power up by jumping the tester then you probably need a fuel pump. Get under the tank and give the bottom a few good whacks with a rubber mallet. Some times the mallet will get the pump off its dead spot and let it kick over. You will still want to replace the pump. That is just an option to get it running again. Not a permanent fix.

-Chad

 

[Imnotsureyet]

You can run power directly to the fuel pump by jumping the test lead under the hood. If it powers up by doing this then i'd say you probably have an issue with the CCRM. Try giving it a few good thumps with the handle of a large screwdriver. A lot of times that will free up a stuck relay and start working again. If the pump doesnt power up by jumping the tester then you probably need a fuel pump. Get under the tank and give the bottom a few good whacks with a rubber mallet. Some times the mallet will get the pump off its dead spot and let it kick over. You will still want to replace the pump. That is just an option to get it running again. Not a permanent fix.

-Chad

View attachment 83982

Did all of that and get nothing when I jump the obd port for the fuel pump and keeps blowing the fuse in the power distribution fuse box under the hood which sends the power to the fuel pump when you turn on the car. But thank you very much I and I already put in a new pump when I first started having trouble. Frist thing I did. Now I find out that it was a waste of money and time and that it was probably the EEC all the time. Good looking out

 

[FastCAD]

Hooked up my obd code reader and it did not turn on. So I hit the power button and it turns on and it shuts down tried again and same thing. I check the power distribution box and find that a ten amp fuse is blown again this same fuse has been blown three times and when it blows the car will not start. I check every thing and find out that I'm not getting any fuel so I figured that I need a fuel pump. Go through all of this and same thing is still happening this is when I hooked up the code reader and find out that it well not work and a friend of mine sees this and tells me that my eec is not working and that I need a new one. Can any one confirm this for me and possibly let me know where I can get a new one from? And if so maybe one with some upgrades if you know what I mean because I'm just imnotsureyet.

Ps I need this fast because I'm now on foot trying to get to work and this sucks and I love my 1992 SHO 3.0 and don't have much how ever I feel I deserve one thing In life after all I've done to help others my hole life. Can't I just have a car I like without going broke? I don't think that's asking too much.

Thanking you all in advance because imnotsureyet!!!!

which 10a fuse are you referring to in the fuse box? do u have any other elec. problems? . windows, door locks, pwr.seats etc. autolamp module, dash cluster warning lights.
p.s. I'm assuming u know the obd reader has batteries.
p.s.s. do your eng. cooling fans come on with the ignition and a/c on?

 

[Imnotsureyet]

which 10a fuse are you referring to in the fuse box? do u have any other elec. problems? . windows, door locks, pwr.seats etc. autolamp module, dash cluster warning lights.
p.s. I'm assuming u know the obd reader has batteries.
p.s.s. do your eng. cooling fans come on with the ignition and a/c on?

It's the first closes to the front of the car on the far left in the power distribution box and the door chimes don't work nor do any of the other accessories on that fuse it also powers the fuel pump as well as the change system for starting the vehicle. I have no other electrical problems car was running grate until this occurrence

Thank you for any input intended to help me with this problem I surely appreciate it

 

[FastCAD]

It's the first closes to the front of the car on the far left in the power distribution box and the door chimes don't work nor do any of the other accessories on that fuse it also powers the fuel pump as well as the change system for starting the vehicle. I have no other electrical problems car was running grate until this occurrence

Thank you for any input intended to help me with this problem I surely appreciate it

I'm not convinced that 10a fuse runs the fuel pump. That fuse has it's own problems and probably the reason you don't get a CE light. That may be reading a shorted PCM. MAYBE
That diagram that Irish Pride posted will tell you if the pump is working. It's a hot-wire for the fuel pump. Check the reset for the fp in the trunk drivers side inside the lining over the rear wheel.
If the battery is good turn the a/c on and the key to the on position don't start. Check that your engine cooling fans are running. If not it's your CCRM under the rad. cover drivers side on top of the 'A' frame which powers the fuel pump and the fans. MUCH CHEAPER.
If your fans are running then it probably is the PCM.
Let us know and we can point you towards replacements.
best to ya

 

[Imnotsureyet]

I'm not convinced that 10a fuse runs the fuel pump. That fuse has it's own problems and probably the reason you don't get a CE light. That may be reading a shorted PCM. MAYBE
That diagram that Irish Pride posted will tell you if the pump is working. It's a hot-wire for the fuel pump. Check the reset for the fp in the trunk drivers side inside the lining over the rear wheel.
If the battery is good turn the a/c on and the key to the on position don't start. Check that your engine cooling fans are running. If not it's your CCRM under the rad. cover drivers side on top of the 'A' frame which powers the fuel pump and the fans. MUCH CHEAPER.
If your fans are running then it probably is the PCM.
Let us know and we can point you towards replacements.
best to ya

The fuse does power the fuel pump the book and wish i could post the entire thing on the site for everyone but that would got me in all kinds of troubles ( copy rights ) and all that how ever having the book does not mean I can just look at the book and know what's wrong or why and I am always looking to learn more I'm not someone that knows everything and not even sure I know what I know you know what I mean because Imnotsureyet.

 

[FastCAD]

The focus should be on why the 10a fuse keeps blowing.
Two things; #1) The (P)ower (C)ontrol (M)odule. #2) The (C)omputer (C)ontrol (R)elay (M)odule. #1=$$$-#2=$.
If you can eliminate one then you know where you are at. If the fp will run with the quick test or reset connectors or the cooling fans run with the a/c and ignition on then that would pretty much eliminate the ccrm.
If you are not getting a signal from the obd II that pretty much is a shorted pcm (my exp.)
Both pcm & ccrm run most of the electronics and they are easily shorted out by something as simple as not dis-connecting the negative battery cable before working on a SHO.
That's pretty much it.

 

[SHOMON]

Unplug the coolant bottle sensor.
Replace 10a fuse... IIRC it is labeled as acc feed.
Happened on my 95 ATX many years ago.

 

[BaySHO Performance]

I've had a few cases where that 10A fuse has blown in an ATX. It's caused by a short in the low coolant sensor. However, never on an MTX, although I guess it can happen.

 

[Imnotsureyet]

Hooked up my obd code reader and it did not turn on. So I hit the power button and it turns on and it shuts down tried again and same thing. I check the power distribution box and find that a ten amp fuse is blown again this same fuse has been blown three times and when it blows the car will not start. I check every thing and find out that I'm not getting any fuel so I figured that I need a fuel pump. Go through all of this and same thing is still happening this is when I hooked up the code reader and find out that it well not work and a friend of mine sees this and tells me that my eec is not working and that I need a new one. Can any one confirm this for me and possibly let me know where I can get a new one from? And if so maybe one with some upgrades if you know what I mean because I'm just imnotsureyet.

Ps I need this fast because I'm now on foot trying to get to work and this sucks and I love my 1992 SHO 3.0 and don't have much how ever I feel I deserve one thing In life after all I've done to help others my hole life. Can't I just have a car I like without going broke? I don't think that's asking too much.

Thanking you all in advance because imnotsureyet!!!!

Well I got it fixed thanks to all of you who gave me a direction to go in as I was stuck in stupid for a while there.

Anyways I got it running now so what I did was what I was instructed by the folks here for the most part and wail I was at it I took the time and rerouted some of the wiring away from the motor and transmission as well and as it turns out that the trouble was in the power distribution box I believe. When working on the car I noticed that when I put my finger on the fuse in question I heard the antilock and other things clicking and the fan would start and stop . So I figured that do to either heat or do to my pulling and replacing the fuse that the fuse was not making a good connection so I took the fuse and slightly twisted the prongs in opposite directions and all the clicking stopped and when I started the car it work in not sure yet if it was the fuse or the rerouting if the wiring as well as unplugging all the things that seemed to be getting power from that fuse

Anyways thank you all I do appreciate all the advice

Late

Imnotsureyet

 

[luigisho]

That's so random. I'm glad you found it.