Does anyone know if the EATC out of a 1989 Continental would work in a 1990 SHO?
EATC Replacement from Continental?
- Thread starter Devin
- Start date
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luigisho
SHO Member
I don't think so. 3.8L auto vs 3.0L manual?
SHOrod
Torrie Tuned
I'm not sure that the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) cares about that though....
-Rod
ScotSHO
SHO Member
The vacuum connections are correct, but someone would have to compare the connector pinouts to see if they are wired the same. This would take the EVTM for an 1989 Conti. I have the 90-95 Taurus pinouts.
The other consideration is the display - it lights up more like the 90-91 clock.
luigisho
SHO Member
Sorry ADD said ECU to me. EATC maybe
I bet we had some of this info before one of the forum data loss crashes many years ago. I know I used crash sensors from a Lincoln in my old '90 SHO
kwforddude
Member
Isn't there an extra button on the eatc from the Lincoln?
Looks similar, although I haven't looked at the diagram to see if the pin out is the same
SHOrod
Torrie Tuned
I should have the FSMs for both the 89 and the 90 Ford cars, so if you need me to compare the pinouts, let me know.
-Rod
-Rod
luigisho
SHO Member
I wonder if the parts numbers will cross match in a Ford database?
If you don't mind I'd appreciate it
I'm not very knowledgeable on that. I tried looking up Ford parts cross references and couldn't find anything reliable online
SHOrod
Torrie Tuned
Will do. It might be this weekend before I'm able to find time to look though. Hopefully you're not in a huge hurry.
-Rod
Nope, just trying to take care of some cracked buttons
SHOrod
Torrie Tuned
The service manual lists two different sets of diagrams for the Continental depending on if it was built before 1 April, 1989 or built on or after that date. Do you have any idea what the build date is for the donor vehicle? I haven't yet checked the diagram to see if the EATC pinout differs or not.
-Rod
-Rod
SHOrod
Torrie Tuned
It doesn't appear to matter. The primary difference it appears is pins 25 and 26, but ultimately I don't think it will really matter. On the Continental pin 25 feeds the clutch field coil and pin 26 gets Accy/Run power through the Clutch Cycle Switch. With the SHO pin 25 goes to the Clutch Cycling Switch and then to the field coil, while pin 26 is connected to +12V in Accy/Run. So ultimately both wires serve the same function. From what I can tell, the pinout matches. I don't know if physically they match though.
-Rod
-Rod
Attachments
So I got answers. Mainly because I took a flier on it.
Electrically it appears to be 100% compatible. All of the functions worked when pressing buttons, unlike mine which refuses to do panel/floor.
Fitment is not good. While it uses the same style buttons (although they may be solid, hard to tell), everything else is different. The sheen is a gloss black, the LCD is smaller and more like a screen than the alarm clock-style of the 1990. It is also physically smaller by maybe 3/8 in horizontally and 1/4 in vertically. The locating pins would have to be cut off for the unit to be installed. It looks possible though. The bezel of the car could cover the gaps but it'll be very close.
So I basically bought a set of buttons. Looks a lot better though.
Not sure what the coils are for but that assembly has the exact same part number, so that could probably be swapped.
Donor buttons installed. Now I just need a non scratched cover and a working panel/floor function.
Electrically it appears to be 100% compatible. All of the functions worked when pressing buttons, unlike mine which refuses to do panel/floor.
Fitment is not good. While it uses the same style buttons (although they may be solid, hard to tell), everything else is different. The sheen is a gloss black, the LCD is smaller and more like a screen than the alarm clock-style of the 1990. It is also physically smaller by maybe 3/8 in horizontally and 1/4 in vertically. The locating pins would have to be cut off for the unit to be installed. It looks possible though. The bezel of the car could cover the gaps but it'll be very close.
So I basically bought a set of buttons. Looks a lot better though.
Not sure what the coils are for but that assembly has the exact same part number, so that could probably be swapped.
Donor buttons installed. Now I just need a non scratched cover and a working panel/floor function.
Last edited:
SHOrod
Torrie Tuned
Thank you for the update. The buttons look good!
While you had it apart did you happen to check the PNL-FLR button for continuity? Does it use a tact switch? If so, maybe that switch is bad, or a solder joint is bad, and it could be easily replaced/repaired. The coils are the vacuum solenoids for controlling the vacuum servos to move blend doors. If both the Panel and the Floor settings work individually it's unlikely that one of the solenoids is bad, so I'd lean towards a switch. I would expect the 4 solenoids are for Max A/C or Vent, Panel, Floor, and Defrost.
-Rod
While you had it apart did you happen to check the PNL-FLR button for continuity? Does it use a tact switch? If so, maybe that switch is bad, or a solder joint is bad, and it could be easily replaced/repaired. The coils are the vacuum solenoids for controlling the vacuum servos to move blend doors. If both the Panel and the Floor settings work individually it's unlikely that one of the solenoids is bad, so I'd lean towards a switch. I would expect the 4 solenoids are for Max A/C or Vent, Panel, Floor, and Defrost.
-Rod
Well, I can turn on the vent and I don't get any air, but I figured that was due to the valve on the air box. Didn't seem to work with the Continental unit either.
thegreatbriguy
SHO Member
I have a ton of these, I can sell you a soft button screen if that's what you want. There is also a whole write up that may be still on the forum about all the compatibility and also how to put different faces on the sho hard button. You know, soldering the ribbon cable other neat stuff. Maybe you are into that. I also have hard buttons, most of the problems i have with them are not getting the bulbs to light up in the buttons. I test them and make sure everything is working but then ask a premium for them
The green plastic diffuser has some scrapes on it, but it isn't a big deal. I'll probably be interested at some point in getting a better functioning unit but I have to spend some time finding out why mine isn't working right.
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