Drivers door differences: SHO vs. GL

[hawkeye18]

The "SHO" is on the cladding, not the door itself. He's transferring the cladding over. Can you imagine how much it would have cost ford to make doors with a stamped SHO on them? They couldn't have used them for any other trim package, and they would've had to make new tooling for it. Not feasible.

 

[thecrew2999]

i know on gen 2 the doors are the same except body cladding of corse.

some have keyless and some dont as well so that makes a big difference.

gen 1 i dont know at all but i imagine its close

 

[Storm-Chaser]

wiring... but you should be able to swap everything over....

how much was the check for? if you dont mind me asking...

For Gen IIs, there is no difference with the exception of the automatic door locks, keyless pad, and illuminated entry. The primary harness from the door post is the same. What differs are the individual wiring harnesses associated with the each of these options - for which pre-wired connectors are already present in the door's main wiring harness, regardless of the options the car was configured with during production.

For Tauruses with automatic door locks (which includes keyless entry), the door latch mechanism is slightly different. The door contains a solenoid type actuator to lock/unlock the door. The actuator is located below the latch mechanism and has a 2-wire harness that runs from the actuator to the main internal door harness.

The keyless entry pad has a single 8-wire harness which connects to the primary harness below the door handle (in addition to the pre-cut hole in the door for the key-pad).

The illuminated door lock cylinder is a simple 2-wire lead that runs from the lock to a connector in the main harness directly below the door handle.


When you remove each of the items from the original door, their associated harnesses will connect directly into the door's wiring harness.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Another Question. What if I get a gen 2 door without the keypad, and I have one. I would plan on changing over the inner panel anyways. So what work would I be doing to convert the wiring over. I mean can I just pull the wire harness out of mine and plug it into the locks and window motor. Or do I have change out motors and stuff as well. Secondly, my door has the black trim around the windows, and all I can find is ones with a chrome trim. Is this replaceable, or does it have to be panted?

GLSS guys I know I already asked some of you this.

Missed that the OP posted this in 2005...

The door latches are different for keyless entry, but can be changed-out. The biggest problem is that you will need to cut an elongated hole in the door panel *and* properly bend a small tab that is stamped into the door skin sheetmetal, otherwise the keypad will not hold in-place and also allow water to leak in around the keypad. You will see this when you pull the keypad from the donor car.

As long as you get all of the harness (to include the harness connector) to the primary door harness, it will plug right into the existing harness - for the Gen IIs. I have no experience with the Gen I or Gen III door harnesses.

The trim piece is simply held in place by a medium size hex cap-nut, that screws onto a small stud that extends downward from the rear of the trim piece near the door jam. Remove that nut, tap the stud upward to loosen the trim piece, lift the trim piece from that end, and then gently wiggle/pull it loose from the front of the door (near the mirror). There is only one bolt holding the exterior trim piece in place.

The interior window felt trim piece is held in place by pressure from the window glass against a small alignment pad that is bolted to the interior door skin. Remove the bolt, the associated backet, and then work the trim piece upward.

The chrome and non-chrome trim pieces are actually different parts - and I don't think black paint will adhear properly to the chrome finish for any extended period of time. You can simply swap-them-out.

 

[0V3RC10CK3D]

My bad, I'm a noob

 

[kzoosho]

if you want you can sand it and paint it then it should adhere.

 

[red89mtx]

i put a gl door on my 89 was very easy jsut made some holes for the claddin and swapped the mirrors and door panel the rest was plug and play paid 75 for mine

fergot to add u can jsut pull out the crome trim aroud the door jsut use small pliers and pull lol

 

[Storm-Chaser]

if you want you can sand it and paint it then it should adhere.

Now that would be fun! That chrome strip is what, ~3/16" wide? You'd have to hand-sand to keep from damaging the rubber portion of the trim - at least on the Gen II trim.

Then again, get all four and add a little chrome racing stripe on each side....

....

fergot to add u can jsut pull out the crome trim aroud the door jsut use small pliers and pull lol

Hadn't thought of that. Wonder if the Gen II trim is the same way....

(.... visions of strolling through the salvage yard to find GL after GL with the chrome trim partially pulled-off.... )

 

[Storm-Chaser]

My bad, I'm a noob

Why apologize, you replied to the active portion of the thread.

I replied to a two-year-old post !

 

[MelectroK]

Okay I think you guys actually confused me more. Let me try asking diffrently. If I get a slow or sable door from a gen II that has paint I like. That has NO KEYPAD and CHROME window trim. If I get this door and change out my current mirror with this one. Change out the SHO cladding. And I dont care to have the keypad on the door anymore. Can I remove the inner door panel, swap it with mine and plug the switchs all in to the main harness. I can then put this door and everything will work minus having a keypad?

I can then pull off the chrome trim. And replace it with my current trim?

 

[jelloslug]

Okay I think you guys actually confused me more. Let me try asking diffrently. If I get a slow or sable door from a gen II that has paint I like. That has NO KEYPAD and CHROME window trim. If I get this door and change out my current mirror with this one. Change out the SHO cladding. And I dont care to have the keypad on the door anymore. Can I remove the inner door panel, swap it with mine and plug the switchs all in to the main harness. I can then put this door and everything will work minus having a keypad?

I can then pull off the chrome trim. And replace it with my current trim?

I was looking through my wiring diagrams and it's not very clear to me if you should swap in your current door wiring to your new door. The no keypad wiring SHOULD work but if it were me I would swap over the wiring out of your exisiting door. To swap over the black trim you will have to drill out the rivets that hold on the chrome trim and then rivet in the black trim. They are just pop rivets that you can buy at Home Depot. To swap over the cladding you may need to drill some holes at the most. The interior door panel will swap over just fine.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Yes - I believe so.

Yes.

The only possible issue, will be if the remote keyless entry module needs to "see" the keypad plugged into the harness to work correctly - and that I don't know. It will be simple to test - simply disconnect the wiring for the keypad from your vehicle harness and see if the other keyless entry functions still work (key fob, auto door locks, auto trunk unlock, etc.). The only other issue will be, whether the solenoids that operate the door latch acutator and door lock work in the donor door.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

I was looking through my wiring diagrams and it's not very clear to me if you should swap in your current door wiring to your new door. The no keypad wiring SHOULD work but if it were me I would swap over the wiring out of your exisiting door. To swap over the black trim you will have to drill out the rivets that hold on the chrome trim and then rivet in the black trim. They are just pop rivets that you can buy at Home Depot. To swap over the cladding you may need to drill some holes at the most. The interior door panel will swap over just fine.

The lower trim piece that runs along the bottom of the window, is simply held in place by a single acorn-nut. Where are the rivets for the upper trim strip?

As far as the wiring harnesses, look for the factory tag that should be on each individual harness section. They are usually blue and will include a 4-digit prefix starting in either "E" or "F". For example, the wiring harness on the keypad I pulled from a '95 GS several weeks ago, had the following tag:

F2DB-
14A626-AB​

That's the engineering part number for the harness, and the "F2" portion of the prefix indicates it's a 1992 vintage part ("F" = 1990 thru 1999 / 2 = third year, with 1990 being the first year).

1990 - FODB-
1991 - F1DB-
1992 - F2DB-
1993 - F3DB-
1994 - F4DB-
1995 - F5DB-
1996 - F6DB-
1997 - F7DB-
1998 - F8DB-
1999 - F9DB-​

 

[jelloslug]

The lower trim piece that runs along the bottom of the window, is simply held in place by a single acorn-nut. Where are the rivets for the upper trim strip?

Pull out the fuzzy window run channel and the rivets are underneath. It's possible to remove the run channel without removing the glass (I did it on my '90 when I was painting it).

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Well, that would explain why I've never found the rivets - I've simply left the channel-runs in place given they're in the flat-black paint region, and used masking tape along the upper trim. I've never like doing it this way, but given that the trim pieces are no longer available, it was better than taking the risk of damaging trim I couldn't replace.

Btw, how did you get the channel-runs loose/out without removing the glass, and did the runs get damaged in any way.

Thanks!!!

 

[jelloslug]

Well, that would explain why I've never found the rivets - I've simply left the channel-runs in place given they're in the flat-black paint region, and used masking tape along the upper trim. I've never like doing it this way, but given that the trim pieces are no longer available, it was better than taking the risk of damaging trim I couldn't replace.

Btw, how did you get the channel-runs loose/out without removing the glass, and did the runs get damaged in any way.

Thanks!!!

Roll the window down all the way and push the run channel down into the door about 2 inches. Now you can take the front edge near the mirror and pull it away from the door just enough to let you "rotate" the entire run channel. Once the upper rear corner is free you can pull it away from the car slightly and up and out of the door. You can do the rears the same way but it's much harder to do it with out messing up the run channel.

 

[the on going reality of shopower]

no you can not replace your chrome trim on the window only the bottom will come off the rest is part of the window frame. ( rivited on )

 

[Niki Knuckles]

 

[jelloslug]

no you can not replace your chrome trim on the window only the bottom will come off the rest is part of the window frame. ( rivited on )

Just drill out the rivets.