Door open sensor

[Hollon71]

Well, cra*. My door open light is on and will not turn off. While I work until 9PM tonight, I disconnected the battery. I will have to see if there is a sensor, or something, for it.

Any suggestions?

Thank you

 

[Qshiplvr]

I remember this problem a while ago. I took DeoxIT and sprayed into the cavity where the door catch latches onto the part bolted to the body. The DeoxIT D5 worked like a charm, lubricating AND improving electrical contact and the problem went away. I swear by DeoxIT D5. Better than just plain old WD40. Turned out to be the rear passenger door latch was the problem.

 

[Hollon71]

I guess I need to order these to try and fix the problem. I will find that out tomorrow so I can order these part(s).

 

[gamefanatic]

I remember this problem a while ago. I took DeoxIT and sprayed into the cavity where the door catch latches onto the part bolted to the body. The DeoxIT D5 worked like a charm, lubricating AND improving electrical contact and the problem went away. I swear by DeoxIT D5. Better than just plain old WD40. Turned out to be the rear passenger door latch was the problem.

Yeah, any contact cleaner to include Carb cleaners should be used first. Then followed up by your flavor of **** sprayed just inside that roller latch goes in the door. I do use the PTFE dry **** WD-40. Use a little on the hinges while you are in there and the door will almost hit you in the face it opens so well.

Do that for all 4 doors to prevent the problem. I've never seen one actually die. I think they just get stuck.

 

[E1]

I guess I need to order these to try and fix the problem. I will find that out tomorrow so I can order these part(s).

Don't do it man !

I'd rather change the whole door than mess with those damn switches.

Q and Game are spot on, you don't need the switches, they just get dirty/sticky.
Slobber the door latches inside the doors liberally - don't be shy - Any good spray penetrant that leaves a lubricating residue, (PB Blaster is another good one) and then open and slam each door 5 or 6 times and we promise, the dome light will go out now.

 

[Hollon71]

Don't do it man !

I'd rather change the whole door than mess with those damn switches.

Q and Game are spot on, you don't need the switches, they just get dirty/sticky.
Slobber the door latches inside the doors liberally - don't be shy - Any good spray penetrant that leaves a lubricating residue, (PB Blaster is another good one) and then open and slam each door 5 or 6 times and we promise, the dome light will go out now.

I will do that tomorrow since I will be off. I disconnected the battery for the night since we are FINALLY getting a cold from to hit us down here in South Texas. No more mid '80s for a while. LOL

 

[gamefanatic]

I will do that tomorrow since I will be off. I disconnected the battery for the night since we are FINALLY getting a cold from to hit us down here in South Texas. No more mid '80s for a while. LOL

It has been an uncanny warm and calm winter in SoCal.

 

[Hollon71]

It has been an uncanny warm and calm winter in SoCal.

 

[Hollon71]

It's 45 degrees outside, right now, at 5:40AM.

 

[Tbird6]

Another vote for DeoxIT D5. It is the only contact cleaner I have used that will dissolve the green mung of electrical corrosion. I was surprised that it did.

Had a F-150 with a windshield leak that got water into the fuse box on the passenger side floor. Lot's of green and after soaking it and letting it sit 15 minutes or so I scrubbed it with a small wire brush and everything cleaned up!

It is expensive but for me it did work.
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[Hollon71]

Another vote for DeoxIT D5. It is the only contact cleaner I have used that will dissolve the green mung of electrical corrosion. I was surprised that it did.

Had a F-150 with a windshield leak that got water into the fuse box on the passenger side floor. Lot's of green and after soaking it and letting it sit 15 minutes or so I scrubbed it with a small wire brush and everything cleaned up!

It is expensive but for me it did work.
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.

Where did you buy the "DeoxIT D5" at?

 

[SHOrod]

I swear by Caig DeOxit D5 as well, and I usually follow a DeOxit cleaning up with some PreservIt or FaderLube. The cans are small and they may seem expensive, but a little really does go a long way. The last can I bought either came from Parts Express or MCM Electronics.

-Rod

 

[Qshiplvr]

Where did you buy the "DeoxIT D5" at?

I usually buy it online...one of the Amazon vendors that has a good rep and the cheapest price.

 

[Irish Pride]

I used WD40 on my 97 latches soon after I bought it back. It was the drivers rear door that was stuck. Year and a half later and still doing fine.

-Chad

 

[luigisho]

I used WD40 on my 97 latches soon after I bought it back. It was the drivers rear door that was stuck. Year and a half later and still doing fine.

-Chad

Same for my old '97. WD was one of the cheap fixes that actually worked on any vehicle I've owned

 

[E1]

Same for my old '97. WD was one of the cheap fixes that actually worked on any vehicle I've owned

WD - 40 works fine, but it evaporates 100%. It will break the snags free for sure but a year down the road one may find themselves with an unwelcome dome light again.

Plenty of products out there (as mentioned above) leave a little residue - teflon, oil, moly, whatever - but in this application they tend to have best long term results.

But ABSOLUTELY - if all you got is a can of WD - 40, it will fix you right now.