Noobz347
New Member
Where is the fuel pump relay on these cars?
Cranks but no Start-- SOLVED
- Thread starter Noobz347
- Start date
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intimdatr
Got Cams?
in the ccrm.
Noobz347
New Member
Dammit... I knew you were going to say that.
One more question... is there a single set of connectors, like the salt and pepper shakers on a Mustang, where a majority of fuel injection and engine harnesses go through? Or is all pretty spread out?
What I mean is, aside from the CCRM connector, is there some other common connection/junction somewhere where that the fuel injection harness goes to?
there are a couple of other large connectors that much of the wiring goes through - on the left fender under / behind the air cleaner box, and on the rear of the engine toward the passenger side. I've never seen connectors in either of those locations go bad - you have a much higher chance that the ccrm is bad.
Noobz347
New Member
Does the CCRM fire the injectors or does it only control the fuel pump?
Noobz347
New Member
Hmmm... I'm not sure that my problem is the CCRM then. When the car heat soaks, I can still hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the ignition key on and off.
pjtoledo
'ol man in the SHO
while correct, that statement can be very mis-leading.
when the key is turned on a relay inside the CCRM energizes and sends battery voltage to all the injectors on a common wire (red if I recall correctly) . This only supplys voltage to the injectors, it does not fire the injectors. As you may summize, injectors won't fire without voltage, so if no voltage is coming from the CCRM the injectors won't fire. Additionally, each injector has its own seperate wire to the PCM. from those wires the PCM, when told to fire the individual injectors, grounds the wires coming from the injectors, thus completing the circuit and the injector fires.
in a key=run position, but the engine not running so the PCM is not telling the injectors to fire,,, there should be 12v leaving the CCRM, 12v on the red wire going to each injector, AND 12v on the wire leaving each injector, and 12v on each of those wires as they hit the PCM connector. with the engine not running, the PCM is not firing the injectors, thus there is no current flowing, thus there is no voltage drop all along that circiut(s). it should read 12v everywhere.
when the engine is running: 12v leaving the CCRM, 12v on the red wire at each injector, and a pulsing voltage leaving the injectors going to the PCM.
current only flows when the PCM grounds the individual wires from the injectors, when that is happening, the wire leaving the injector going to the PCM harness will drop to near zero. The voltage drop will be across the injector.
if this doesn't confuse 'ya enough, I'll get the manual out and post some really deep B.S.
PlakeStang
New Member
noobz347
When you figure out what the issue is pppplllleeeeaaaasssseeee! Post you results.
I am suffering from the same exact problem! I have followed all the steps suggested in this thread with the same results.
When you figure out what the issue is pppplllleeeeaaaasssseeee! Post you results.
I am suffering from the same exact problem! I have followed all the steps suggested in this thread with the same results.
Noobz347
New Member
Will do.
Update: I haven't had a whole lot of time to play with it lately. I've been swamped at work and weekends filled. I did however, pick up a fuel system pressure gauge.
Fuel pressure is roughly 38 psi. primed and prior to start. Slightly lower with the engine running.
I ran the crap out of the car again and got it good and warmed up. I let it sit in the driveway for 10 minutes or so until it stalled (this has been my new test method as of late vs. shutting it down and waiting for heat soak).
Anyway, after it shut down, I put the test gauge on and I was only getting 8-12 psi. on the gauge. Even running the pump continuously wouldn't make the pressure build much over that. After allowing the thing to sit for a while, it would slooooooooowly build pressure to about 20 psi. as it just sat with no pump running or anything else.
I has what I consider to be, excessive pressure in the fuel tank when I took the gas cap off. At the time, I didn't think to see if that pressure was positive or negative pressure.
After I was satisfied that I'd gotten all that I could get from this test, I pressed the relief valve on the test gauge and what did I see? A LOT of cavitation. I probably had more air bubbles coming out of the fuel rail than I did fuel.
Next step: I have a 255lph fuel pump on the way.
Suspicion: Fuel pump is oriented incorrectly in the tank or is internally by-passing.
I figure that if I'm going to drop the tank to check, that I might as well replace the pump.
jayro
SHO Member
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but you shouldn't get the 255lph pump. That much flow will overload your FPR and cause you issues. Basically, the FPR cannot return that much fuel back to the tank. You should go with the 155 lph. It has more flow than you need and the FPR can handle it. Also, if you don't want to drop the tank, many on here (myself included) installed a fuel pump access door under the back seat. Makes accessing it in the future very quick and easy.
As far as the noise when you open the gas cap. Mine does that at times. Common sense would say that there is some sort of a system/valve that keeps the pressure in the tank equalized. Though I never looked into it, it would make since that it exists. Anyone have an answer to this?
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Noobz347
New Member
Correction:
The pump, I think, is a 190 not a 225.
The pump, I think, is a 190 not a 225.
jayro
SHO Member
Your FPR may be borderline with the 190 lph. I have heard it both ways. Some say that they have run the 190 with no issues while other claim it will overwhelm your FPR. I run the 155 lph. It is fine with the stock FPR and provides more than enough fuel.
Noobz347
New Member
If that's the case then I'll drop kick that POS too. It's old and I don't trust it as it is. I've not ruled it out as a contributor to my current problem.
pjtoledo
'ol man in the SHO
there is a restrictor in a plastic connector located near the bottom of the radiator, in the evap purge lines. clean out the restrictor hole but do not enlarge it. the lines purpose is to vent the tank thru the charcoal cannister when the engine is off. when the engine is running the tank is vented thru the purge valve/solenoid to the intake manifold. pressure in a gas tank, while common, is not the best situation.
Perry
Noobz347
New Member
What size is the fuel tank on my 95?
The fuel pump that was supposed to be coming is apparently, not. So I've been looking at these all-in-one setups and hopefully fix my inaccurate fuel gauge at the same time:
http://rcmautomotive.com/id11.html
179.99- 1989-95 SHO Federal-Mogul Fuel Pump with new Sending Unit Assy.
They call for an 18.6 gallon tank. If I've got a tank that size then I've not seen it yet (all the more reason to suspect that maybe the pump is oriented incorrectly in the tank).
The fuel pump that was supposed to be coming is apparently, not. So I've been looking at these all-in-one setups and hopefully fix my inaccurate fuel gauge at the same time:
http://rcmautomotive.com/id11.html
179.99- 1989-95 SHO Federal-Mogul Fuel Pump with new Sending Unit Assy.
They call for an 18.6 gallon tank. If I've got a tank that size then I've not seen it yet (all the more reason to suspect that maybe the pump is oriented incorrectly in the tank).
Noobz347
New Member
nada?
PlakeStang
New Member
tank size
It should be 18.6 gal but the 16 gal really doesn't look different. As a matter of fact my 95atx has a 16 gal tank in it right now. Saves weight! JK! PO must have "fixed" it. My guess because of rust!
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