Clutch.

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SHOspazz92

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What makes you people think it's gonna break? I sprayed 100+ hp on a stock clutch with no lift shifts. It never broke. :shrug:

My thoughts exactly.

I'm not going to sit here and argue that this clutch will last longer then say then most aftermarket unit's, But I don't see why it won't last for a good while. Unless I get some defective unit that was built on a Monday by someone with a anti-SHO agenda, I'm not worried.

-Sam
 

Shoaz

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For a stock or mildly modded N/A motor in a lightened car I think a stock clutch will be fine. If you rev match your downshifts at the track the stock straps will be fine as well.
 

SASHO91

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My thoughts exactly.

I'm not going to sit here and argue that this clutch will last longer then say then most aftermarket unit's, But I don't see why it won't last for a good while. Unless I get some defective unit that was built on a Monday by someone with a anti-SHO agenda, I'm not worried.

-Sam


Sam I know it will work... I'm just giving you a hard time. You know that...
I ran a 75shot on the stock clutch with mods as well for some time. Actually, I may have hit it with the 100shot as well, I don't really remember. I didn't break a strap, but the stock disc did NOT last.
I was fairly easy on it while on the bottle, but it did have plenty of hard shifts.
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I just broke down and put a CM3... :nut:

EDIT: Actually it DID bend a strap.. just saw the other pic... :doh:
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Good luck with the setup. Be easy on her and it will last... atleast until something happens, which is a matter of when not if.
:salute:
 
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zak

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What makes you people think it's gonna break? I sprayed 100+ hp on a stock clutch with no lift shifts. It never broke. :shrug:

The straps can be fatigued by aggressize downshifting (or missed shifts) which bends them with stress concentrating at the rivets. I know of at least one purveyor of SHO clutches that will not sell stock replacements because warranty returns for broken straps were killing all margins.

In the end, you may have just lucked out and the original metal melt used to eventually form your straps had no recycled material in it (as one example). What brand was it? Stock flywheel (better absorbs heat)?

A stock replacement (Ford) with a ceramic TOB lasted 68 K in my car including > 140 autox runs, but that venue doesn't involve much shifting, just high rpms ;-). The OEM '95 with Rev B TOB from the factory lasted 31 k miles, similar usage.

zak
 

SHOmethewayhome

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my CM1 didn't even make it 9,000 miles with a sickly, stock motor and mostly highway driving with an occasional 3rd gear pull...

of course, there may be another explanation but i wont know for a little while longer.
 

St Louis SHO

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zak, it was definitley a Ford replacement. It was not the "reman" one, but the OE type Ford clutch. The only reason I took it out was that it killed the PP fingers from TOB wear :(
 

AREA 91

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I am more then sure my PP is fine, As Josh has not had a single reported failure for on of his HD PP's. The pedal engagement is also still VERY smooth and the only clattering that I hear is that that is typical of a 9-Puck disc. While the 9 Puck disc gripped EXTREMLY hard, They just were not meant to last very long.

I'm going to go with one of clutchnet's "Yellow" Clutch disc's.

http://clutchnet.com/product.php?productid=9370&cat=0&page=2

I'm going to re-use my old PP and just scuff it to remove anything that the Fibertuff disc left behind. I will also probably just use a Stock throw out bearing as well.

-Sam


Sam, I just told you that I broke one of his heavy duty pressure plates at the Indy convention. This was verified by Mr. Joshua himself.;)
 

sho2see

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Luk clutch is great im running it for sometime now...with your car and the mods and weight reduction it should be more then enough
 

Shoaz

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Sam, I just told you that I broke one of his heavy duty pressure plates at the Indy convention. This was verified by Mr. Joshua himself.;)

I had a strap fail on one and a strap fastener back out on another. The third one has held up in the Pumpkin since then for quite a long time.
 

ycode90

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My brother has stock oem replacement clutch on a 3.2 w/some porting and what not . This was to replace a Southbend DXD that only lived 10k miles. He's got 5k on the stocker and raves about it. Easier pedal and no slips.
 

somedude_001

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you have me confused a bit on clutches. I bought a stage 1 clutch master setup form shonut, and because of all of the stories of the short lifespan of the friction material I installed a stock clutch in my car but used the CM pressure plate. It has plenty of grip for my stock car, but I don't want to be breaking straps and what not when i'm out having fun.

I did notice that the CM clutch disk was about .5" smaller than the OE disk that I reinstalled, I would imagine that has a lot to do with the premature wear out.
 

SHO_DOODmorrris

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I did notice that the CM clutch disk was about .5" smaller than the OE disk that I reinstalled, I would imagine that has a lot to do with the premature wear out.

orly? thats interesting. as if it was the size before ford changed it to the larger ones eh?
 

RStalveyARFF

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Sam, if you want a clutch with mild manners but great grip (for possible engine upgrades per say), Contact Spec for a stage 3 hybrid. It's what I had in my - with a 3.2 and nitrous. Gripped like a sonofabitch but engagement was silky smooth. Best of all, no chatter.
 

SHOspazz92

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Sam, if you want a clutch with mild manners but great grip (for possible engine upgrades per say), Contact Spec for a stage 3 hybrid. It's what I had in my - with a 3.2 and nitrous. Gripped like a sonofabitch but engagement was silky smooth. Best of all, no chatter.

I'll keep that in mind when I make a clutch purchase this summer (Just to have one on hand).

-Sam
 
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