Clutch.

[SHOspazz92]

So, After swapping to a stock 55mm MAF and the car running like garbage afterwords, I find two of my plug wells have a pool of water in them. Cleaned them out, the car runs like a champ and I'll be damned! This car has low end again!

Well, As it turns out this really is a SHO because now my clutch is slipping (Only if I am in let's say in 3rd of 4th at a low RPM (Say 2,000-2500) and mash the gas. At WOT in 1st and 2nd at higher RPM's in any gear, It won't slip.

Anyways, This car has a 9 Puck Fibertuff unit. I'm not sure on the mileage but I can't see it having more then 15,000 Miles, MAX. This is the second 9 puck clutch that I have had (95 had one as well) that has started slipping with low miles on it and with almost no warning. I'm sure it's a fine product but I just have not had luck with them. With that said, I'm considering my options on what clutch to get.

Granted my car is essentially a track car I still put maybe 200 Miles on it a month just taking it out to Local car meet's and such (I also have a event at VIR this weekend, Hopefully the clutch will stay togheter! ). Considering that this car weighs 700 pounds less then when it was stock I'm wondering if a Heavy duty clutch is even necessary. I think somthing along the lines of a Stage one or even a stock unit should do fine considering how much less weight this car has to deal with. However, The car is a bolt on car (2.5 Single exhaust, +20 Cams, PNP/BBB, etc).

Even with the bolt on's, I'm sure a near stock clutch can handle the power. If it sounds like I am trying to cheap out, I kind of am. I replaced the 9 Puck that was in my 95 with a stock unit (Sachs) and it held great, Stood up to constant abuse on the street, a few trips to the drag strip - etc etc. I'm just wondering what your guy's opinion would be. Do you think a stage one or even stock unit could withstand 3-4 Road course event's a year as well as a few trips to the drags? I don't see why not considering my car's weight. If I have to buy a stage 2-3 unit I will, But quite honestly I don't really see a point if the stock clutch's are up to the task.

Opinions?

-Sam

 

[pitaSHO]

I've got a SPEC stage II that I've road coursed a number of times. Lighter pedal feel than stock, but you can beat on it. What flywheel do you have? I'm using the Fidanza. So far my favorite combo. I know other have had bad experiences with SPEC, but so far so good. FWIW.

Chris K.

 

[Vnuk1]

I'm certainly no expert but really doubt that a stock clutch kit could handle that much abuse from being at the drags and auto x. You would be better off buying a 2-3 stage clutch and just save yourself the time and money of replacing yet another clutch at low miles.

 

[SHOspazz92]

I'm certainly no expert but really doubt that a stock clutch kit could handle that much abuse from being at the drags and auto x. You would be better off buying a 2-3 stage clutch and just save yourself the time and money of replacing yet another clutch at low miles.

In a stock weight car I could see this being true. However, I don't think the clutch has nearly as much work with 700 pounds less weight to work with. You are probably right tho. Wishful thinking on my end.

FWIW, I am using a stock flywheel.

-Sam

 

[Vnuk1]

Maybe you could change Flywheel and go with a stage 1 clutch kit and be fine?

 

[93rev2sev]

Stock will be fine. Lightness is your friend...as noted.

 

[BlackonBlack89]

I say it depends on how much you plan on dragging the car. If you like 1/4 mile and do that more than the track, go with a stg 3 IMO. For road coarse I think a CM stage 1 would be fine. IDK though..... when u throw sticky tires on the clutch really starts to take the abuse as the tire are no longer the fuse...

 

[St Louis SHO]

Sam, I really think a stage 1 or 2 is in your future. Only because of the reinforced straps on the PP. If it weren't for that, I'd go stock.... But then again, I take no chances.


- James

 

[AREA 91]

Sam, I really think a stage 1 or 2 is in your future. Only because of the reinforced straps on the PP. If it weren't for that, I'd go stock.... But then again, I take no chances.


- James

I agree with the reinforced pressure plate straps.
This is coming from someone who snapped a reinforced strap at the indy convention.
I guess I shifted a little too agressive on that corner.

 

[SHO92]

Sam, I have similar mods to your car, minus the cams, and I'm running the CM stage 1, for the reinforced straps. On the road course, the shifts are at high rpm, but you don't bang the gears like at the drag strip. I haven't had any problems with my clutch, I run the fidanza too.

 

[PAracer]

Both of our track cars would collect water in the spark plug wells if the were driven in rain. I always had the same symptoms, too. Check the wells every once in a while and you should be fine. I wonder if it's been there since your journey down I-95? Check your plugs and wires for carbon tracking.

The clutch step in the green car is an HD pressure plate from SHOnut, fibertuff disk, and stock flywheel. I don't recall which TOB is in the car, but I suspect it is the ceramic version. If the clutch pedal still feel good, you might be able to get away with just a new disk.

As for my clutch, I had a CM stage 1 for a while. It was fine until it started slipping at high RPMs. The disk looked fine, but the fingers had gotten all wonkey. I upgraded to a stage III and everything was fine. I have had a Fidanza flywheel through the whole mtx experience, too.

Why would you use full throttle at low RPM anyway? Seems counterproductive.

 

[SHOspazz92]

Both of our track cars would collect water in the spark plug wells if the were driven in rain. I always had the same symptoms, too. Check the wells every once in a while and you should be fine. I wonder if it's been there since your journey down I-95? Check your plugs and wires for carbon tracking.

The clutch step in the green car is an HD pressure plate from SHOnut, fibertuff disk, and stock flywheel. I don't recall which TOB is in the car, but I suspect it is the ceramic version. If the clutch pedal still feel good, you might be able to get away with just a new disk.

As for my clutch, I had a CM stage 1 for a while. It was fine until it started slipping at high RPMs. The disk looked fine, but the fingers had gotten all wonkey. I upgraded to a stage III and everything was fine. I have had a Fidanza flywheel through the whole mtx experience, too.

Why would you use full throttle at low RPM anyway? Seems counterproductive.

I was driving off base to go pick up a hood - The speed limit is about 30-35 MPH on base so I was cruising in 3rd gear. I got to a point where the speed limit lift's a little so I gave it half throttle in 3rd and the RPM's moved up a little yet the speed didnt. At this point I figured the clutch was slipping, So to test it I put it in 4th with the RPM's at about 2,000 and mashed the gas to see if it would slip. Of course, It did. I assure, I normally don't drive like that.

As far as the water in the Plug wells, It's hard to tell. The car had not been driven in the rain very much. However, It did sit for 3 weeks without being driven in some heavy rain storms. I'm just going to assume that somehow water made it's way inside those plug wells that way. Either way, Now that I know what to look for I'll be checking that more often, Especially after it rains.

The pedal still does feel good in the car. It's not very Buzzy and I don't feel any binding of some sort, Al tho the engagement has moved up quite a bit. I tried adjusting the pedal but had no luck. If I could get away with just replacing the clutch Disc that would be awsome, However I don't think there is anyway to tell if the pressure plate is any good without pulling the trans. I'm not ready to pull the trans until I have a clutch to replace it.

Doh.

-Sam

 

[AREA 91]

WOT at 2000 RPM??? That's lugging it. Your rod bearings are crying.:swing:

 

[SHOspazz92]

WOT at 2000 RPM??? That's lugging it. Your rod bearings are crying.:swing:

Again, The car has never been driven like this for any reason. I simply did this twice to put some load on the clutch and confirm that it was slipping. However, Shortly afterwords that method was no longer needed to see that the clutch was infact slipping.

-Sam

 

[38SHO]

clutchnet organic disc

cheap, stiurdier hub then stock unit, still has organic stock style clutch material, I paid 125 for mine..... cheapest option out there if u just want to replace the disc

Reybestos makes the clutch lining.....

I beat on it constantly, held up good last 1000 miles until a strap broke on the PP

 

[Sho Amo]

south bend ofe

do it once and fogedaboutit

 

[SHO_DOODmorrris]

mhmm once i burn my stocker up after i throw my SC in ill get a CM stage 1 i think. cracked it open yet?

 

[38SHO]

your gonna supercharge your SHO and use a stage 1? most stage 1 clutches are OEM type friction materials....

when you want to abuse it and test it out, you need a different friction material that actually grips harder as it gets hotter....

I think this is going to be my next clutch disc:

http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?productid=17545&cat=0&page=1

"The most popular disc among street racers.
This disc has the advantages of the solid hub metallic button clutch disc with the additional feature of the sprung hub. This is used in requirements where the drive train is susceptible to torsion damage. Specifically designed three retainers protect damper springs from both sides, and significantly improve safety of the product.
Center has a unique feature of being assembled with six rivets for extra strength.
"

 

[SHO_DOODmorrris]

The most popular disc among street racers

That has got to be one of the dumbest quotes in advertising i have ever read.

 

[SHO_DOODmorrris]

mhmm what can that thing handle?