Cloged EGR

[s.h.o.p.r.i.d.e]

Tried to fix it, broke it more.

Ok so my CE light kept coming on so i ran a test and got the 332 - EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code did not open intermittantly,
So i took the throttle body off cleaned that little port hole in the Y, It was really clogged, I took the module strait across from the throttle body, to the left off too and cleaned that really good and every thing in between. So i put everything back together and fire it up and it dies..I thought maybe it just had to burn off some berrymans so i kept it at high idle for a little bit but when i let off it just kept stalling..So i finally adjusted the idle screw just a little bit and it runs fine...check engine light still comes on and now i have a 332 AND 124 - Throttle position voltage was higher than expected..What do you think?

 

[sdpatt]

Basically, yes. You can search on "EGR" and "nostril" to get a long list of previous topics that discussed this situation. You can check for pluggnig of the intake nostils by removing the intake hose and opening the throttle plate with your hand. With a flashlight and coat hanger with a 2" long tip with a 90 degree bend on the end, you can check for plugging of the lower pair of nostrils in the split of the intake manifold.

You will likely find that the holes are plugged with a hard. black tarry substance that can be cleaned out by removing the throttle body for easier access. Use the coat hanger and directed intake cleaner spray to work away at the plug. Wipe or suction out any debris that is pulled from the ports.

 

[rangerj]

SHOPRIDE,

Look up. See the DPFE question? Thats the one you want to read. Then if you have further questions we will address them. rangerj

 

[s.h.o.p.r.i.d.e]

now what?

Holy cow man, my poor little brain cant harness all that info, haha
I noticed you mentiond taking the actual EGR valve off and cleaning around that? i didnt go that far over on the manifold..should i have? and also it seems the symtoms of the DPFE is rough idle and misfiring...mine ran great till i tried to "fix it"

Now what?
pride

 

[shospeed143]

You might need to replace the tp sensor if you have a scan tool you could check tp voltage with that. Or you could take a dvom and check the voltage by backprobing the tp connector at the gry/wht wire to a ground, it should be under 1 volt. If it is over 1 volt then replace it. Some cars you can adjust the tp sensor but i dont thank the sho has a adjustment.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

A 124 code in combination with a 332 code (and often even a 124 code by itself) is almost always indicative of clogged EGR passages (nostrils) in the intake.

When you cleaned out the EGR passages, did you check them with some compressed air to make sure they were unobstructed? If not, this should be your first step.

Once you've verified that the EGR passages are clear, you'll want to return that set screw back to where it's supposed to be. The SHO idle is not adjustable by that set screw. It's really just the stop for the throttle plate. If your EGR passages are clear, this could be the cause of your 124 code.

If after doing both of the above the 332 code still persists, then you'll want to either perform the DPFE sensor diagnostic tests referenced earlier, or you could just try replacing the sensor if those tests seem a little over your head.

 

[rangerj]

Mr. A,

I couln't have said it better.

 

[shospeed143]

The egr valve will only couse a rough idle it will not couse the car to stall. If the passages are clogged then it will not affect your idle it is only when the egr valve is stuck open, then you will have a rough idle. If you hvae a tp sensor code then i will check the tp sensor. If it is telling the computer that it is open the the computer will not control the idle. You might beable to diconnect the tp sensor and see if the car starts with out having to use the gas peddle.

 

[s.h.o.p.r.i.d.e]

It was stalling all over today...every time i would start it it would go to about 2000 then just die without a little help...My CE light stayed off alot longer...about 20 minutes longer...so im guessing maybe i didnt get all the crap out? I dont know why it would stall i mean I didnt mess with anything on the throttle body, and it ran perfect before, it all just came off and right back on...Also I looked in my book but i cant find out what this sensor is...if your looking at the nostril, like right in the port its directly behind the Y mounted with two allen heads and a plug running off it..thanks again

 

[shospeed143]

That would be the idle cotrol valve. Also when you took the throttle body off did you get a new gasket or reuse the old one and same with the idle control valve because that could cause a vacuum leak if the gaskets were damaged. I would also recheck the electrical connection to make sure that they are on tight.

Then clear any engine codes and try to restart the car if it still dont work then pull codes again to see if the same ones come back.

 

[shospeed143]

Have you fixed your car yet. If you have let me know what it was if you could, thanks.

 

[s.h.o.p.r.i.d.e]

I took it all apart and cleaned it all again, the seals are all really good.. I have been working crazy hours latley so havent been able to put my full time into it. Tomarrow im gonna buy a tester thing and check my tps..Im gonna reset the KAM thing too..Ill let you know the outcome, thanks for the intrest