SHOtime2511
CGP
Changing the spark plugs ?? Looks like a task in itself
- Thread starter Jason Bowles
- Start date
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Storm-Chaser
New Member
There was recently (since first of the year) a 2003 thread brought to the top.
I thought the information in the old thread is perfectly valid and see no reason to lock this thread. Look at the prior information that was posted in 2004, that would have to be reposted if a new thread were started:
Not to mention that Dave Ladely hasn't been on the forum in three years - anyone know which NAPA socket he was referring to?
My point is that there is value in bringing prior threads to the top that contain "corporate knowledge", versus starting a new thread in which such information might otherwise be lost, as well as adding to the forum's database size in reposting information that does resurface.
Further - case-in-point. I tried the squirt bottle method posted by SuperHO, only to have the pump fail on the second cylinder. After wasting the gas to exchange the "bad" squirt bottle, the second failed before completing the third cylinder. Why? My best guess is that the synthetic oil - which is petroleum-based - was disolving the plastic seals in the squirt bottle's pump. I then used an air hose to blow-out the oil after diluting it with PB Blaster - the same technique that Tom posted in 2004. Will everyone think of using the air-hose technique - probably not.
The biggest reason why you should NEVER allow the oil to simply drain into the cylinder (especially if someone else previously maintained the engine), is because you don't know what's in that oil. Second case-in-point.
Prior to the 60K done in November, I cleaned the oil from the plug wells as a pre-60K maintenance. After removing the oil, I found UP TO A TEASPOON of beach sand in each plug well (the prior owner's daughter attended UMass and apparently went beachcombing, as there was sand all over the engine under the intake). Most, if not all of that sand would have ended-up in the cylinders and spark plug threads had I simply pop-the-plugs.
I thought the information in the old thread is perfectly valid and see no reason to lock this thread. Look at the prior information that was posted in 2004, that would have to be reposted if a new thread were started:
- fricker66 - Frederick's post on techniques for plug change
- Rockledge - links to applicable write-ups on shotimes.com
- yamahaSHO - Jason's image of the engine with the intake off
- Dave Ladely - Dave's information of the NAPA spark plug socket
- Off Road SHO - Tom's techniques and how to remove the oil
Not to mention that Dave Ladely hasn't been on the forum in three years - anyone know which NAPA socket he was referring to?
My point is that there is value in bringing prior threads to the top that contain "corporate knowledge", versus starting a new thread in which such information might otherwise be lost, as well as adding to the forum's database size in reposting information that does resurface.
Further - case-in-point. I tried the squirt bottle method posted by SuperHO, only to have the pump fail on the second cylinder. After wasting the gas to exchange the "bad" squirt bottle, the second failed before completing the third cylinder. Why? My best guess is that the synthetic oil - which is petroleum-based - was disolving the plastic seals in the squirt bottle's pump. I then used an air hose to blow-out the oil after diluting it with PB Blaster - the same technique that Tom posted in 2004. Will everyone think of using the air-hose technique - probably not.
The biggest reason why you should NEVER allow the oil to simply drain into the cylinder (especially if someone else previously maintained the engine), is because you don't know what's in that oil. Second case-in-point.
Prior to the 60K done in November, I cleaned the oil from the plug wells as a pre-60K maintenance. After removing the oil, I found UP TO A TEASPOON of beach sand in each plug well (the prior owner's daughter attended UMass and apparently went beachcombing, as there was sand all over the engine under the intake). Most, if not all of that sand would have ended-up in the cylinders and spark plug threads had I simply pop-the-plugs.
The NAPA socket he is referring to is just a standard spark plug socket. The really good one is on Harbor Freight. It's at least 5 inches long and sticks up above the valve cover. On sale now too...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91705
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91705
Storm-Chaser
New Member
Can you fish that socket in/out of #3 with the intake still on?
i like to use a large turkey injector with a peice of vacum line on the end to empty the plug well. i can get 98% (100% if i had more patience/time) of the oil and whatnot out and it's a pretty clean way of doing it. i am however looking into a large medical siringe with some tubing on the end of it. it has a larger capacity and a better seal that the turkey needle.
cherokeev8
sho vs sho
I changed all six without taking the intake off. No special tools, just a long extension. And I have big short hands, anyone should be able to do this with basic car skills. I cant believe how much better it runs with motorcraft plugs vs the ac ones that were in there. Next is AMSoil oil change, good stuff!
SHOtime2511
CGP
ive done plugs with the intake on,no big deal.
best way ive found is to use a swivel,keeps the nuckles blood free!
best way ive found is to use a swivel,keeps the nuckles blood free!
cherokeev8
sho vs sho
No blood no fun! A beer and a bandaid helps too. Lol. I am changing the tranny fluid tomorrow, how many quarts does it take? Was gonna use Amsoil?
Storm-Chaser
New Member
3.1 quarts
jthod
Mr. Goodwrench
If you can get it all out.
You might search a little about the tranny fluid, It's debated quite a bit, but most go with Valvoine, Mobil 1, or GM syncromesh.
X2
SOP for any engine with plug wells is to blow them out thoroughly with compressed air before removing the plugs. To deal with any oil in there, just hold some rags loosely over the top to absorb it while you blow the oil out. No need for pumps or suction devices, though it sounds inventive.Storm-Chaser
New Member
Then again, in most engines you can see into all the plug wells, whereas with the intake on, you really cannot see into #2 and #3 on an MTX.
And I agree with cetroutt, in that an air compressor is not always available.
And I agree with cetroutt, in that an air compressor is not always available.
X2
jthod
Mr. Goodwrench
I used a turkey baster with a piece of 1/4" tubing in the end. It worked pretty well. Then after I took the plug out I used a rag and cleaned ALL the oil out.
ViPER1313
SHO Member
If you are changing the trans fluid I would go with Mobile 1 ATF. Do NOT put GM Synchromesh / the Penzoil equivalent in there - I had some in my trans for 10k miles or so. When I took it out (due to major grinds during the winter months) it was full of metal flake and had the consistancy of sludge. Our trans is made to work with ATF, not GL4/5 gear oils.
green91SHOPlus
Member
Hahaha, it's always something... This person clearly used the search feature, so good for them.
Because if they started a new thread, then half of the forum would crybaby about them not searching.:gayroll: Information is information, regardless of age. The cars haven't changed in the last four years except for more rust, more break downs, and the decrease in good units still on the road, so what's wrong with old information? 
NotSoSlowSHO
Gas is $$ WALK!
Clearly the search function was used. Bravo.
But it is also clear that it wasnt used enough. As a dead post was brought up by a QUESTION that has been answered dozens of times.
Any Questions? Do a Search!
But it is also clear that it wasnt used enough. As a dead post was brought up by a QUESTION that has been answered dozens of times.
Any Questions? Do a Search!
Storm-Chaser
New Member
One of the forum functions that Beth added last year, was a "prior thread" search, linked to posting a new thread. After typing the new thread title, the forum automatically searchs the existing database for thread titles that include the same key words. It provides up to five prior threads based solely on your proposed thread title.
Prior to typing [your] proposed thread title, you should notice the following text immediately below the "Title" window box:
Notice: When you enter a thread title the system will search for similar threads which have already been
posted. That should help you to find answers.
Once you enter a thread title and then click anywhere outside that box, the following text pops-up
(I used "Changing plugs" for this example):
Here are the similar threads we found:
Problem after
changing plugs
and cleaning
engine
What is involed
in changing
plugs and wires?
Changing spark
plugs
Changing Valve
cover gaskets,
plugs, wires,
instructions?
Oil on plug
wrench when
changing plugs
While the search is based solely on the proposed thread title, I've found it quite useful at times - especially in finding old threads with long-lost information.
Prior to typing [your] proposed thread title, you should notice the following text immediately below the "Title" window box:
Notice: When you enter a thread title the system will search for similar threads which have already been
posted. That should help you to find answers.
Once you enter a thread title and then click anywhere outside that box, the following text pops-up
(I used "Changing plugs" for this example):
Here are the similar threads we found:
Problem after
changing plugs
and cleaning
engine
What is involed
in changing
plugs and wires?
Changing spark
plugs
Changing Valve
cover gaskets,
plugs, wires,
instructions?
Oil on plug
wrench when
changing plugs
Please take a look at those threads before you start a new one.
While the search is based solely on the proposed thread title, I've found it quite useful at times - especially in finding old threads with long-lost information.
Similar threads
