Changing the spark plugs ?? Looks like a task in itself

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Jason Bowles

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I just bought a SHO for the first time in April of 2003. I started off with having to replace the CPS, Radiator, a motor mount?, and a water pump. It cost me $1600.00 on top of the purchase price of $2500.00 so needless to say I'd like to have this vehicle for quite some time before I call it quits.

Any way. I've never dealt with an engine of this size because until now never had the money. I've always been able to change the spark plugs with ease but on this the three in the back look like a chore. Any help on a good procedure would be great.

Thanks

Jason

<small>[ February 07, 2004, 11:16 PM: Message edited by: Bizzy ]</small>
 

yamahaSHO

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I have been told that you can change the back 3 with the intake on... but I have always taken the intake off because I was performing a valve lash at the same time.

If I were you, I would pull the intake and clean it while you are at it... You may likely have oil in the plug wells. If you do, you will need to pull the valve covers and replace the seals.

Good luck!
 

fricker66

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You really have 2 options for the rear bank.
(1) Remove entire upper intake assembly. The 3 plugs are easy to access with the intake removed.

(2) Use several extensions and u joints on a 3/8" drive. The plugs can be replaced with the intake still in place.

Either way, be sure to remove any debris in the spark plug wells before removing the plugs themselves. You don't want anything falling down into the engine.

<small>[ February 07, 2004, 07:13 PM: Message edited by: fricker66 ]</small>
 

Rockledge

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If this is your first time replacing the plugs on a SHO, I would highly recommend that you remove the entire upper intake from the motor. This will give you a much better access to all the plugs and wires, which you are gonna need, especially when cleaning the plug wells. It will also give you an opportunity to clean out the upper intake while it is off. And it will provide you with a nice glimpse of the motor that you never had before.

It is also a good idea to install new plug wires when you do the plugs. You have to take the upper intake off to do wires, anyway, so now is the time.

Set aside several hours to do the plugs & wires. You don't want to rush through it.

There is more information on removing the SHO upper intake HERE.

There is more information on SHO plugs & wires HERE.

P.S. Welcome to SHOForum. :cool:
 

SonicRiot

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wow...and whatever you do, don't use the mechanic that you used for that other stuff. CPS, radiator, motor mounts and water pump for $1600?!?! eek!

And yeah. Do it right and yank the intake. You can do it yourself if you are careful.

Good luck thumb
 

yamahaSHO

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Yeah, it's not hard to pull the intake off at all....
225912_202_full.jpg

225912_34_full.jpg
 

Jason Bowles

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Thanks Guys. Oh I forgot to say it's a 1993 ATX and a 3.2L (the only one they made for the atx this year). And the $1600 for the parts included the service (I did not do it myself - I probably would have if I had known about this forum).

Thank You again

Jason
 

Dave Ladely

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I bought the CORRECT socket, which is available from NAPA and is LONGER than the usual deep well sockets, then flex joint for socket wrench, really kinda easy done that way. I did remove the plastic wiring shroud on the firewall, which was very easy. also bought Taylor wires.
 

Off Road SHO

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I think that you, being new to the SHO's should just change the plugs. Jason and some of the other guys that have no problem are also very mechanically inclined and experienced with these motors.

It just takes a little more time to get the IMRC and DFPE out of the way. Loosen the bottom bolt and completely remove the top bolt of the rear drivers side support bracket, and remove the bracket.

Grip the plug boots by their handles (where the wires go in) an pull firmly. After that, using a flashlight and laying on the motor, look down into each plug well and see if any oil has seeped in.

If it has, get it out any way you can BEFORE you remove the plugs. I use a bent piece of brake tubing on my air nozzle, wrapped in an absorbent towel to blow it out. The oil laden air seeping out through the rag deposits the oil in the rag. If the oil is really thick, you can use wd-40 spayed in there to dilute it.

Don't let that oil get down into your cylinders!

You'll need a spark plug socket, a 10 or 12" extension and misc other sockets and combination wrenches. Good luck.

Tom
 

MyFirstSHO

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Posted by Off Road SHO-

"Don't let that oil get down into your cylinders!"

Listen to this man. Heed the warning.
 

SHOpride

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I find that it's realy easy to change the back plugs if you just remove the hood. I have a 90 mtx so maybe it's just me shrug ?
 

gosho89

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SHOpride:
I find that it's realy easy to change the back plugs if you just remove the hood. I have a 90 mtx so maybe it's just me shrug ?
I look at it this way, if its time to change the platinum plugs then its time to do the rest of the upper 60k (usually 60k - 100k). So you may as well remove the intake and do the job right the first time. Cutting corners can cost more in the end. Also I'm not real crazy about removing the sheet metal to work on the engine. Total time for removal and installation on the intake is about 40-60 minutes, and it lines up perfect every time.

<small>[ February 09, 2004, 12:33 AM: Message edited by: gosho89 ]</small>
 

cherokeev8

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Oops, what happens if a little drips in the cylinder? I had oil in 5 of the 6 holes, why so messy in there? I have accel 7mm spiral wires in there now, they looked ok.
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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Uh... do we have a running record of the oldest post brought back from the dead
??

I think this one qualifies... over FOUR YEARS :woohoo:
 

SuperHO

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:oogle: a 4 year old thread....a new record, perhaps?



anyway, if a lil oil drips down in the wells, nothing bad will happen. if a LOT of oil drips down in the wells, it could foul your new plugs. Reseal your valve cover gaskets. I personally have reused the VC gaskets with a conservative application of RTV around the plug wells with no ill effects.

*edit
Dammit....I type too slow
 

cherokeev8

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Are the valve cover gaskets easy to do? I avoided taking off the intake to change the plugs, but if I need it I need it. I didnt read this site before I changed the plugs, and didnt take out the oil in the wells. oops. the car had cheapo ac plugs in it and it seemed quick but not snappy. Make sense?
 

Brett

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Did plugs, wires, oil and tranny fluid, and oil and tranny filters on my cousins 190k 94 ATX the other night. There was so much oil in the plug wells that it covered the entire spark plug socket top to bottom. We couldnt think of a safe way to clean, so we just took out the plugs and let it all dump in to the cylinders. When it first started it smoked SOOOOOO bad, but there was alot of oil in those wells. After a bit the smoke was gone and the car runs and drives fine. why is it such a huge no no to let any get in the cylinders?
 

SuperHO

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A tip about removing excess oil from plug wells, pioneered by SHOBill and myself on Calypso's old car at a tech meet...


Take a spray bottle and pull the sprayer out. It's gotta have a small straw (thingy that sucks stuff into the sprayer). Stick the straw in a plug well and spray the oil into a paper cup.

Whatever oil the sprayer doesn't get out will burn off just fine in the cylinder.
 

cherokeev8

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Good to know for the next 60k! Tomorrow, new vcg, fun fun. Might as well clean it all out while Im in there.
 

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