car turns but wont start

[bigdoggee]

Hello all...

New problem... I'm not sure what happeded and I'll try my best to explain. Last night as I got home my car stalled. I managed to start it again, but all it did was sputter as if more than one cylinder was not firing!! Then it just died.. Now it turns over, but it wont fire!! I've put on new OEM plugs and wires less than 10K ago so I don't think that is the issue. Also, I seem to recall that there is some sensor that is located beneath the waterpump that a leaky waterpump could cause to fail. I do believe that I need a new waterpump and am wondering if this could be a problem that was caused by just that or is it something else?

Also, from what I read on this site it could be the cps, if so, where could I get one and how much do they usually cost and are they easy to install.

Thanks...

Big

 

[cRaZySHO.]

The sensor you talk of under the water pump, and the CPS you mentioned, are one in the same. The CPS is the crankshaft position sensor. It is located at the top side of the harmonic balancer. If I were to rate the change of this piece on a scale, 1 being an oil change, and 10 being a clutch job, this would be about a 6. The whole front half of the motor basically has to be disassmebled. And while this is done, there are many other parts you might as well replace because of the easy access.

I would also replace-
Water pump
front main seal
accessory belts
timing belt
camshaft position sensor(CID)

I did this job myself, and took me about 12 hours total time, from taking the tools out to a total clean up. And I had never done one before, and did not have a manual, nor the knowledge I have now.

As where to get a CPS, try your local NAPA or Autozone. I think they are about $70.

I'm no pro, but I could see that being the cause of your no start problem. The CPS reads the position of the crank, and sends the signal out so the EEC can set the timing. Without knowing the cranks position, the timing cannot be set, therefore the car will never start.

 

[bigdoggee]

Update!! I finally had a chance to look around and found my problem. The one thing I failed to mention on my earlier post was that as I took the turn onto my street I heard a loud bang... I have (or thought I had) a problem with my front end and thought that is what it was. As it turns out, that bang must have been the engine shifting right hitting the DIS against what appears to be some sort of shock mount causing it to become disconnected!! Since the engine appears to have shifted to the right or could be sagging I had to stick a prybar and lift it to reconnect the DIS and once I did it she fired up!! Woohoo... now I have to deal with the issue of what was causing the engine to shift to the right or could it be sagging? When I put the jack on and lifted the front end it seems to have corrected this problem. I'm sure when I drop it the engine will go back to its sagging position. Is this the motor mount or is it something else?

Thanks
Big

 

[bigdoggee]

BTW.... the car is a 1993 3.0L 5 speed with 135,000 miles

 

[projectSHO89]

It is either failed subframe bushings/bolts or failed motor mounts.

My first inclination would be SFBs or the bolt has pulled out of the body.

Steve

 

[bigdoggee]

how would I test/check it... I know from before that the car had some play on the subframe. Also how do I go about fixing it!

 

[SHOBound]

did you ever solve this problem ?

 

[AutoSHO]

SHOBound:
did you ever solve this problem ?

The problem was either bad subframe mounts or motor mounts. Either one is easy to diagnose, get under your car and take a look if you are having a similar problem.