Car running like crap

[BodylessSHO]

Ever since my cam weld on Sunday, my car has been running like shit. It's been running very rough, and this is mostly noticable at idle speeds or stop. I don't know if this is because of the cam weld or a completely different problem, but I would like to know what's going on.

Carlos did a Cam Weld, cleaning, and 8 new plugs. if this helps.

 

[SHOZ123]

Sounds like a vacuum leak

 

[SonicRiot]

Agreed. Whenever I do engine work like that and the car runs like poo poo when I'm done, I've usually left a vaccuum line unplugged.

But there's just so much it could be. More info needed, please!

 

[BodylessSHO]

I just checked all the vacuum lines, one has a small rip at the end. It was dark, so I'll check again tomorrow, but I think that's it.

 

[BodylessSHO]

I replaced the vacuum line with the rip, and it's still running badly. I've also noticed very bad gas mileage as of late. I don't have any exact numbers, but it's going noticably quick. I'm due for an oil change, but I doubt that's the problem here, I checked it anyway, and it's at a good level and color.

Could it be the transmission? The RPM's are wavering when I'm idle. I'm hoping it's the tranny, because I have 1 month left on the warranty.

 

[SHOZ123]

No it's noit the tranny. It's ether a vacuum leak, EGR leaking, bad TPS or the IAC.

 

[BodylessSHO]

All those things, besides the vac leak, will throw codes eventually, correct? I've got no codes. Guess I better keep searching.

 

[SHOZ123]

Actually the vacuum leak is more likely to throw a code and it would be an O2 max rich code.

The EGR may if it's leaking. The TPS or IAC won't unless they die.

When the car is idling pull the IAC connector off. The car should die immediately.

The TPS usually will be bad in mid throttle or at a specific point in it's range of motion.and can be checked with an ohm meter.

 

[ArkanSHO]

Two of the vacuum lines you will be looking for are behind the engine between the rear of the intake and the firewall. Very hard to get at and even tougher to see without removing the cowling and tray from under the passengerside windshield. Another line that gets left off is on the fuel pressure regulator.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Take it back to the guy who did the camweld.

 

[BodylessSHO]

I'm going to call him this week. He offered to look at it when I said something to him, but I haven't had the time to give up my car for that long. I'm actually trying to buy his SHO, so hopefully we can get it all straightened out then.

 

[SonicRiot]

Hose it down with brake clean (carefully) or use propane around the areas prone to possible pirate air leaks such as vacuum lines or intake gaskets. If the RPMs are affected, you've got a leak.

 

[BodylessSHO]

I'll try the brake clean this weekend. I just tightened the Intake manifold down a bit (about 1/8th a turn on each accessable bolt), and it made it ride smoothly for a little while.

When I start the car, it is usually running smoothly for a minute or so. Tightening the bolts made it ride smoothly for a few miles driving.

I also don't know if I'm describing the problem correctly. It's not constantly running rough, rather it has little spats, mostly when I'm idling. I'm running out of ideas.

 

[SHOZ123]

Use WD 40 or some Gumout. Brake cleaner is pretty agressive stuff.

 

[NebraskaSHO]

Bad Coil? If it's running bad at idle... just my .02

 

[crixtopher]

Bad Coil? If it's running bad at idle... just my .02

what he said, sounds like it, I'm going through the bad coil 101 class right now.

I have been suspecting a bad coil for 1/2 yr, with intermittent fluctuating idle, once it resulted in cutting out entirely at a stoplight but it started right back up and hasn't happened since. finally the other day after a spirited romp it felt like I had lost a cylinder or two, and the engine felt like it was bouncing up and down . running real rough. finally threw a code, misfire cylinder 5, ordered a coil off of Amazon via Murrays (btw SHOZ123 its fitting that you are the only one to give a review !! lol) awaiting arrival now. wiping sweat from my brow that its on the front bank. never installed a coil before but its like changing a light bulb right ?

 

[BodylessSHO]

I've been thinking it might be a coil pack as well, but it hasn't thrown a code. Maybe I'll just go driving on 95 until it does

They're like 80 a piece, right? Maybe I'll replace all of them and be done with it...

 

[Mels]

Bah, junk it. Everyone knows the V6's rule!

On the more serious side, what Mr. Anonymous said.. Take it back to the guy that did the service.

 

[NebraskaSHO]

If it's on the front bank it will take 5 minutes. Back bank... better take the afternoon off from work cause it's a pain (honestly in the back) Silly Ford

Bodyless... as other people have said it will rarely throw a code unless you drive with a miss for many, many miles.

 

[crixtopher]

They're like 80 a piece, right?

this is the best price going, $60

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BYB946/sr=8-1/qid=1155089472/ref=sr_1_1/103-2168972-2434267?redirect=true&ie=UTF8

however, I ordered mine the other day when it still said "available". maybe they had a run on them? I have also heard it recommended to call Murrays directly, couldn't hurt, and the price would likely be just slightly more expensive