Car never really heats up....New T-Stat too.

[thinkingstrings]

Posting under a friends username.

I've got a 94 ATX, My cats are screwed up and they are most likely clogged. I replaced the thermostat 2 times in the past one year span. The car really has no coolant leaks anymore but it will still never heat up, and even if I let it idle for 10 ish minutes to warm up for work, the temps will drop a bit once I start driving. I drive nearly 30 minutes to work everyday and I rarely ever see the temp gauge read over the middle of the A or the L.

What could be my problem?

 

[93shonuff]

my car does the same thing, but then again my car does not have a tstat. It gets up to about the r during a 80 or 90 degree day and about a on a very cool night..

 

[Mr Anonymous]

In my experience, the average SHO temperature gauge hovers in the area between the A and L. Sounds to me like your temps are perfectly normal. All of the SHO's I've owned, as well as a few hundred customer cars, I've found that to be the case.

If you're really concerned, an IR thermometer temp reading from your upper radiator hose will tell the story. Really a hot upper hose is already telling you that your temp is at least 192 degrees F.

 

[Shoaz]

What could be my problem?

Did you put in a 195F t-stat or a 180F? A 180F t-stat may make it read a little low (it did on my silver car), but operationally it will be okay, sorta.

 

[dantheman68]

try changing the gauge sender

 

[SHOsFAST]

I also have the same issue... this morning its around 40 degrees and it barely got over the first line, but It usually runs very cool according to the gauge anyway.

 

[93rev2sev]

Add me to the list of people who have this issue. Takes a long time for the heat to come on too. And when it does, it has a hard time warming the cabin when it's REALLY cold out.

Last year, I put a sheet of masonite in front of the radiator. It made a difference. I guess it's that time again...

 

[Shoaz]

FWIW, the bi-metal nature of the SHO motor (aluminum heads, iron block), is ******* the coolant and the corrosion-suppression properties of the coolant. Often the t-stat is one of the first items to suffer, which I think is why t-stat failures are fairly common. Fortunately they usually fail open when they fail. The people that are having problems getting to warm-up temp that haven't already checked/replaced their t-stats might consider doing that.

 

[dantheman68]

FWIW, the bi-metal nature of the SHO motor (aluminum heads, iron block), is ******* the coolant and the corrosion-suppression properties of the coolant. Often the t-stat is one of the first items to suffer, which I think is why t-stat failures are fairly common. Fortunately they usually fail open when they fail. The people that are having problems getting to warm-up temp that haven't already checked/replaced their t-stats might consider doing that.

and thats all the more reason to use distilled water in your cooling system as well!

 

[LeddZepp8687]

Did you put in a 195F t-stat or a 180F? A 180F t-stat may make it read a little low (it did on my silver car), but operationally it will be okay, sorta.

Had an autozone 180* tstat before and it was a *************.

Current T Stat is a quality CarQuest 195* unit. List price was like 23 bucks but I get parts slightly above cost. My only real concern is the fact that it had no jiggle valve. If I am thinking of the correct thing that is.

I think Ill just pick myself up a new gauge sender and an ECT and see if that makes a difference. I mean the heat will get plenty hot/warm but my gauge is telling me that the coolant is not all that hot.

If the new gauge sender and ECT dont solve the problem Ill pull the radiator and fab up some sort of shield.

Thanks guys!

 

[Shoaz]

Before you go to all that trouble, buy/borrow an IR thermometer and shoot the top radiator hose once the car has warmed up. If it's 190F or so, then it's just the gauge and there's nothing to worry about.

 

[SHOtime2511]

try changing the gauge sender

thats what i was thinking aswell

 

[SHOblime]

I've changed the t-stat and sending unit and I usually run at M/A/L unless I'm sitting in traffic for a while...I always used to worry it wasn't coming out of open loop but I think the gauges just read a bit on the low side

 

[SHOck]

If you want OEM cooling system operation, use the OEM stat, period. Too many aftermarket pieces do not flow enough (runs hot issues), and the bypass blocking ring is the wrong size (never warms up issues).

If the coolant gauge is registering movement and you do not feel a noticeable change in temperature at the vents in the car, you with have a low coolant issue or the blend door is not operating properly.

Having to block the radiator in winter is a sign that the thermostat is not closing completely (oem unit), or you've got a non-spec t-stat. Time for replacement.