Car keeps cutting off after warmed up any help??

[Sho-Off1120]

Okay so when my car warms up it randomly cuts off. When it does cut off the fuel pump makes funny noises and I have no spark to the ignition system and it takes anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour to start up again any ideas will be extremely helpful!!!

 

[zoomlater]

Pull your codes and report back. You can check the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve to see what pressure your fuel pump is putting out.

SHO Phoenix Project (archive.org)

 

[luigisho]

Have you checked the computer for stored codes? I would do that as well. Could be fuel pump, also a symptom of failing crank sensor.

 

[SHOrod]

I agree with everything above, and will add to the list the ignition control module. The stalling while driving and lack of spark would point more towards either the crankshaft position sensor or the ignition control module than a fuel pump though. I helped a friend with an old F-150 that failed to start for him after parking in his driveway the night before. There was no spark and no signal on the oscilloscope from the CKP sensor so we replaced the CKP sensor, but then he had no fuel. The fuel pump failed at essentially the same time.

-Rod

 

[BaySHO Performance]

As said, the first thing to do is check the codes:

http://wiki.wikisho.com/wiki/EEC_Self_Test_Procedure

I wouldn't be surprised if you get a PIP (Primary Induction Pickup) circuit failure code. That would point to a bad CPS. The most likely culprit is that the water pump is leaking onto it, shorting it out and killing the car. The car won't start again until the CPS has dried out.

If you need a new CPS, the only place to get one:

https://www.supercoupeperformance.com/in-stock-position-sensor-gen-1-2-v6-sho

 

[Sho-Off1120]

I replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor the ignition control module the camshaft sensor the constant control relay module the ecm and now the car is just turning over and now I'm getting no injector pulse

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Did you replace the water pump as that was most likely to have caused the CPS to fail by leaking onto it? Did you look at the hole in the bottom of its shaft to see if there was any trace of fluid coming out? Did you make sure that you got the right CCRM and PCM for your car? Tables for both here:

https://shosource.com/products/ols/categories/electronics

And did you ever pull the codes? They will have gone now because you disconnected the battery.

 

[Sho-Off1120]

Yes replaced the water pump too and no did not pull codes but found the issue sold me the wrong cps and no one can find one at my local part stores and ford cant even get it so now I have to find a cps senseor

 

[BaySHO Performance]

The only place you'll get one:

https://www.supercoupeperformance.com/in-stock-position-sensor-gen-1-2-v6-sho

 

[NoSlo]

I replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor the ignition control module the camshaft sensor the constant control relay module the ecm and now the car is just turning over and now I'm getting no injector pulse

That's why it is best to try one remediation at a time. Now you have little idea either what would have fixed it or what has caused the new symptom. At least three of the six+ things can be restored to the old equipment.

Injector timing requires the PCM to open them. If it doesn't know about crank sensor, you'd get neither spark nor squirt.

The first - verify the letter code of the replacement CCRM and the model of PCM. They are not interchangeable.

Verify the timing as you'd have pulled the belt. Top two cam marks line up at the top when bottom pulley indicates 0.

 

[Sho-Off1120]

The only place you'll get one:

https://www.supercoupeperformance.com/in-stock-position-sensor-gen-1-2-v6-sho

So I bought a CPS from super coupe performance and it doesnt fit the magnet is hitting the reluctor wheel any ideas???

 

[zoomlater]

Has the crank sensor been modified as shown in the picture on the website

 

[luigisho]

There was a batch that required filing it down. Posted on this board somewhere

 

[Sho-Off1120]

Okay nvm now the CPS I had received was the correct cps I just had to modify it to fit the car after I shaved 2mm off it went right in and now the car works perfectly I'd like to thank everyone on here that had given me ideas and a definitite thank you for the people that said it was my cps

 

[Sho-Off1120]

That's why it is best to try one remediation at a time. Now you have little idea either what would have fixed it or what has caused the new symptom. At least three of the six+ things can be restored to the old equipment.

Injector timing requires the PCM to open them. If it doesn't know about crank sensor, you'd get neither spark nor squirt.

The first - verify the letter code of the replacement CCRM and the model of PCM. They are not interchangeable.

Verify the timing as you'd have pulled the belt. Top two cam marks line up at the top when bottom pulley indicates 0.

Yes I verified all the numbers on the ccrm it's the correct one everything was correct just had an issue with the CPS that my local autozone sold me it wasnt for my car

 

[luigisho]

and now the car works perfectly I'd like to thank everyone on here that had given me ideas and a definitite thank you for the people that said it was my cps

Really glad that was the issue and it's finally fixed. I am waiting for the day I'll have to change mine and...hope some are still around.