Cam sensor replacement Help ASAP

[SinisterSHO]

Well, when I previously ran the codes, I got a 211, which a couple of people pointed out could be the cam sensor. And I read on shotimes the other day about the symptoms, and mine were similair. Not starting at first, but starting after two or three tries.

Well, not tonight. Car should be showing up on a flatbed soon.


How hard is this to replace, I've located one at Autozone, and I'm going to pick it up in the morning. It looks fairly easy to replace as I can see the sensor and the two bolts holding it on. Are these two bolts the only thing holding it on?

Thanks!

 

[ohfosho]

it IS that easy. 2 screws and the plug. not really expensive either. they usually go because of oil dripping on them due to leaky valve covers, so look into that too.

 

[gosho89]

I disagree. Can you say Crank position sensor or also known as the CPS. A SHO will still start and run with a bad cam sensor. While your in there do the complete 60k service- water pump, timing belt and front crank seal.

CSS408 cps sensor $55.17 NAPA

If you are convienced its the cam sensor make sure to replace the cam seal behind the sensor

CSS405 Cam Sensor $28.00 NAPA
E9DZ-6700-A Cam Seal $8.00 FORD

 

[SinisterSHO]

Valve cover gaskets as well as full 60k was done about 20-25k ago. I didn't see any oil in the area of the sensor tonight.
The car had been starting and running with the bad sensor, but I think the colder temps tonight made it finally let go.
I do have a new crank sensor, but I dont think thats the problem. I've always been told stalling is an issue with the crank sensors, and my car has never stalled, just hard starting. Guess I will know tomorrow.

 

[SASHO91]

here you go steve...

easy way to do it... just need a few 1/4'' extensions...



!!!

 

[Rockledge]

The car should still start (after a few tries) and run with a bad CMP.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Why replace the cam sensor when the crank sensor is the culprit?

 

[SinisterSHO]

I've always been told stalling is an issue with the crank sensors, and my car has never stalled, just hard starting. Guess I will know tomorrow.

But, I guess I was told wrong. I just replaced the cam sensor and the car still will not start.

Anyone want to buy a taurus?

So, if I spend how ever much time its going to take me to change out this crank sensor. And the car still does not start, who should I ****** first?

 

[marvsho17]

So is your waterpump leaking on the cps? Give me a call if you need any help replacing it, as i've had to tear into the front of mine a couple times.

 

[NEUSHOER]

Your sho hasn't stalled? I have a similar problem and i have replaced both the cam and crank shaft postion sensors so if you solve this problem let me know. My problem went away for a while after i got a new idle air solinoid. How ever it would stall if that was the problem so idk. Good luck let me know when you fix it.

 

[SinisterSHO]

So is your waterpump leaking on the cps? Give me a call if you need any help replacing it, as i've had to tear into the front of mine a couple times.

No coolant leeks anywhere that I can see. Just a problem that as far as I can tell started pretty randomly, but I dont know for sure. I dont really know what I'm going to do. If I'll have enough time to fix it tomorrow I guess I'll have to find out, as I have to work at 1 in the afternoon. I might be able to have my buddy help me at his shop, but I dont know for sure.

 

[ohfosho]

ok let me say that i am VERY suprised to hear that that isnt the problem! look here for the definition of CODE 212! http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/code3.htm

i was in the same boat last month. i had troubles starting the car, it would crank and crank, then pause for a second, and then continue cranking. no tach movement. when it did start, there was a tach only some of the time...it seemed to come back to life after a while.
SO...i know that the CID sensor solved my problem!!! beacuse the car is my daily driver now, and i have not had the problem since i reaplced that part. (i have not done a front 60k, so therefore never touched my cps)

im not saying that the problem isnt CPS related, it could be. but you got a 212 code, and that says CID sensor all over it. at any rate i would try another CID sensor just to see.


i recomended to do the CID sensor FIRST because: it was my porblem, your code points to it, and its the easier, and cheaper to do of the 2 sensors (if it isnt the problmeatic sensor, then think of it as preventitive maintenance!)

hope that you get it figured out soon.




p.s., i had no problem replacing the sensor from under the hood, with my intake off (some1 showd pics of going through the wheel well), i dont know how much clearences differ between MTX and ATX though (mins ATX)

 

[SASHO91]

with the intake on (MTX) it is difficult to get to the Camshaft sensor....

the ATX is very very easy to get to from the top of the motor even with the intake on..

the CID and CPS are like mother and father.. the ICM (DIS module) is like their kid....
the CPS is the dad, and the CID is the mom... the Mom and dad tell the kid what to do....
to put it in an easier terminolgy....
the CID and CPS work together...

 

[Rockledge]

ok let me say that i am VERY suprised to hear that that isnt the problem! look here for the definition of CODE 212! http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/code3.htm

It's not a 212 code, it's a 211 (PIP signal):

Well, when I previously ran the codes, I got a 211...

 

[SinisterSHO]

I replaced the cam sensor, and the car still wont start. And I dont know what I'm going to do.

 

[Rockledge]

I replaced the cam sensor, and the car still wont start. And I dont know what I'm going to do.

Sounds to me like you need to replace the crank sensor (CPS), which is considered a SHO maintenance item, in any case. It's part of the "Front 60K" service which usually includes other items, such as replacing the timing belt, for example. It's quite doable yourself, but it might take you some time, especailly the first time through. Set aside a weekend so that you don't feel rushed.

Here is a link to an excellent "Front 60K" guide to help you through it:

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k.htm

However, first you might want to try swapping in another known-to-be-good DIS Module, I've heard that a bad DIS Module can set pretty much any ignition-related code, even the 211.

 

[SinisterSHO]

Swapped out a DIS, nothing changed.

Checked for spark, and checked for fuel. Its all there.
If the CPS was bad, would I still have spark?

 

[DHMag]

Why replace the cam sensor when the crank sensor is the culprit?

what he said.

 

[Huntervf]

Steve, it's the CPS.

FYI, this is my old car... I replaced the water pump at 74,000 along with a fresh valve lash & new seal in the intake & cam covers. The owner before me did a full 60k with a new cps, plugs, wires etc. right around the 60,000 mile mark.

Said previous owner also decided to run sans timing covers for about 12,000 miles. I ended up replacing the timing belt tensioner because of this; being exposed to the elements had made the bearings quite noisy, and I was also suspicious of a noisy water pump as well. All the belts still looked good so I didn't worry about them, and the CPS was recent as well. However, being exposed to the elements-even for that short of time-could have shortened the life of the CPS.

PIP signal = CPS. Watch your tach when you crank, I bet it either doesn't move or moves erratically. That's your problem... final answer.

 

[SinisterSHO]

And thanks for the late reply, car left on the flat bed about two hours ago.