bucking again. dies at idle

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Devin

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I have not checked the codes yet, but I got a fault, and the car started bucking hard at anything above 2k rpms. I got off the highway and managed to get into a parking spot where it promptly died. Last time this happened the MAF was the culprit. I thought it was a loose plug and I tightened it and it ran for about a week, but the problems are back. It is essentially undrivable. Can the MAF sensor cause those problem
 

mattsho1993

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sounds like cam sensor how new is it? also had similar problem two different times once cam 2nd battery cable carowded on both ends when the load was applied it would buck due to the motor loosing power. As a results had tons of codes... IDK if this helps
 

Devin

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I have a code reader, so next time I can run up to Bothell I'll go check them.

If the codes say MAF failure, should it just be replaced? Or is there wiring I can check?
 

ranger690

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I had the same problem and it was because of my pulg wires being original and in bad shape. If they are original I would try replacing them. As for the maf I dont know, never had a problem with mine
 

ShadetreeSHOguy

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Completely random and unrelated to what you're looking at, but is the ground strap tightly fastened down to the engine? My '89 did this same thing and it was because i forgot to tighten that bolt.
 

Devin

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I have my codes:

Hard KOEO - 24
Memory KOEO - 49, 56, 66

Would the act screw up the engine performance?

Should the MAF meter be replaced since it hard-faults and is now in memory?

And a spout code?!
 

Devin

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MAF is clean, by the way. Bought the cleaner the day of, after my incident. Any ideas? Should I just start replacing sensors? Is there any connection between those components I should worry about?
 

rubydist

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If you have the manual, do the troubleshooting - there is likely a bad connection on a power or ground somewhere because the ACT and MAF and TPS share common power and/or ground, iirc.
 

Devin

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Good to know. I have a Chiltons, I will look in that.

edit:

When checking grounds, if there is only two conductors, there is no ground, right? Doesn't the SPOUT only have two conductors?

What is the best way to check for continuity? Use a multimeter, set to continuity and touch one electrode to the car and one to the conductor?
 
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