Brakes, Brakes, Brakes...

[Rayme20]

The green was more expensive and higher rated than the yellow grr I knew I'd screw something up

 

[Rayme20]

The green was more expensive and higher rated than the yellow grr I knew I'd screw something up

I lied they are more expensive and better than the red I guess. Still probably pretty good i hope

 

[bpd1151]

You'll be fine.

As I stated in my original reply, anything's better than stock for those model years.

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[Rayme20]

Anything else I need to do the change over?

 

[bpd1151]

Start where you are & feel out your own comfort level as far as experiences vs. OEM.

There's always things that can be changed..... and asking what "needs" to be done, versus desiring to be done, are two vastly opposing paradigms.

Some have added steel braided lines. While others have swapped fluids out and replaced with a bona fide racing brake fluid with higher temp ranges/maximum.

Others have even retro'd the 2013+ brake booster and master cylinder as well.

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[Rayme20]

It's a DD for me I track it probably 6 times a year.

 

[RonPorter]

You don't warp rotors you get uneven pad deposits from inadequate pads. Putting new rotors on with the same pad type will produced the same result. The picture of the rotor above is a prime example. In all of those cases, if the rotor isn't grooved an not worn to spec, it can be resurfaced.

As Mike mentioned for street (not track) use, EBC has a few pads that work, but the Green is iffy. Also Hawk HP+, HPS (but these are more like the EBC Green). Or Carbotech 1521 (also like EBC Green) or AX6. Getting stock blank rotors are fine, unless you want the eye candy of the drilled /slotted stuff.

 

[RonPorter]

And if you do road course tracks, not the dragstrip, 6x a year, EBC Green ain't gonna cut it. And Rich tore up a set of EBC Reds in one track day in his 2011.

For road courses, Carbotech XP10 /XP8, with blank rotors. You will love them. I've run that combo year round on three different cars.

 

[Rayme20]

So the EBC rotors are on backorder for almost an entire month autoanything is suggesting a Hawk Sector 27 Brake Rotor as a comparable substitute, I figured if I did this, I could upgrade to the yellow stuff pads, but if it's a ***** rotor I don't want that either. Let me know what you guys think.

 

[RonPorter]

Go to Rock Auto or whatever your favorite online parts vendor is, and pick a set. Unless you are set on something blingy, get whatever set of blank rotors suits you. Cheaper is always good.

Then spend it on pads. EBC Yellow are fine or any one of their more aggressive pads above Yellow in the EBC line.

Rotors are a non issue, unless you are running 500 mile races or 12+ hour enduros.

 

[Rayme20]

I'm not going to lie, I love the way the EBC Sport rotors look, but I am worried about functionality as well. I am going to run the painted calipers, but that's easy enough to do, does everyone agree that you aren't going to get better performance out of the EBC rotors?

 

[RonPorter]

The rotors are just big heat sinks for the heat. No, rotors won't do anything for brake performance. We'll, if you put the same crappy pads on pricey rotors you may buy time, at least until the melting pads clog the grooves and holes. Even with good pads, look at someone's drilled rotors after a year. See if you can find any holes that aren't plugged up! Can't even recall all of the SHO guys at track events that developed cracks around the holes.

As I mentioned earlier unless you're running races of a few hundred miles, or 12 - 24 enduros, stock blanks are fine.

Here's one article on it. The better one was in R&T about 20 years ago, that I may have in file boxes I haven't opened since 2000 (pre online & PDF days)
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

 

[SHOdded]

Get high carbon content rotors especially if you plan on using ceramic pads. Autozone generally offers such rotors under their Duralast label, Gold or Platinum line I believe. Stoptech also has products worth checking out.

2013+
StopTech Brake Rotors Premium OE Style Slotted Rotor SHO
Front Left 126.65136SL
Front Right 126.65136SR
Rear Left 126.65137SL
Rear Right 126.65137SR

Duralast Gold Brake Rotor -
Front
Part Number: 75010DG
Rear
Part Number: 75011DG

Former: 1995 ATX, 1992 MTX

 

[Vigilante]

To BPD1151:
You indicate in your post re: Brakes that you did the Wilwood Big Brake Upgrade on all 4 corners. I checked their website and don't find anything for the Taurus SHO. Then called them and got the same answer from one of their salesmen. Please advise

 

[Lostneye]

TCE Performance pieces together kits. Another member mentioned they may not be available anymore.

 

[bpd1151]

@ Vigilante:

When you call TCE, ask for the owner, Mr. Todd Cook & speak directly with him.

He was low on inventory, but at last check, he still was putting kits together.

Let me know.

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[Guzzi SVT]

Here is how to make it stop

 

[Citationdoc]

I put PowerStop drilled/slotted rotors on all 4, and their Z23 pads. Made a noticeable improvement and look great. I never track mine, but I definitely DRIVE it! Never made any measured stops with stock vs PowerStops so have no empirical data to pass along, but I estimate 15% improvement in stop distance, more notable stopping from faster speeds. I've had these on for about 8k and no obvious plugging of holes, nor any signs of crack propagation from holes. I do keep a close eye on them, though. I'll keep reporting as I put miles on. While certainly nowhere NEAR the Wildwoods, I am happy with the PowerStops as a cost effective upgrade; In terms of performance AND visual appeal

 

[bpd1151]

Here is how to make it stop

And here's how to upgrade that just one more step......

Upsized, massive, 15" rotors.
Slotted & dimpled.
Upgraded Poly Matrix "E" pads.
Titanium heat shields.

Love my Wilwood's!

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[Citationdoc]

Not to mention they look positively BADA$$!