Brake Duct Prototype ver. 2

[NJSHO]

Well my first attempt at brake ducts turned out to be more like air diverters than ducts. Im not even sure they did anything. After studying SHOAZ's brake duct photos I came up with some of my own, the difference being that mine exit at the rotor:

I just used aluminum duct from home depot for the mock up, but I may just leave it there and see how long it survives. I am also thinking of adding some kind of end to the hose to taper it down so I can get it right in the middle of the rotor. I went out for a test drive and they passed test 1 which is staying on the car. While I was out, I did a couple of 60 to 30 stops and then drove a min or two and checked the temps at the rotor. Unducted side was at 303 F, ducted side was at 240 F. With the speeds on a track I think these might actually provide some decent cooling.

 

[Todd TCE]

Been there, done that. We scrapped them.
The early Bondo cars had them (SCAT ducting, not dryer venting) and custom steel covers bolted to the sub frame to protect them after crushing them a bit. In due time dragging them over curbs just broke them off and caused more harm than good when they did.

 

[NJSHO]

Went over three sets of speed bumps and no sound of scraping/crushing and no sign of movement so far.

 

[somedude_001]

maybe because you are running eibach springs, someoen running intrax would have a hard time running anything under the car.

 

[Shoaz]

Those sorts of problems are why I made mine fixed to the subframe. That and flex fatigue on the hose becomes almost a non-issue.

This does look like a worthwhile experiment, but just try to keep in mind what might happen if that thing does get caught on something. You might want to make the connection to the duct inlet a little loose so it doesn't yank that out if the hose gets snagged on something.

I think I'd worry mostly about what the wire in the duct might do. If it gets snagged on the rotor or in the wheel it might be a mess to clean up. Road debris can knock stuff around, just consider where things might wind up if they got hit by something.

 

[LeddZepp8687]

I wanted to do this also but with real metal dryer tubing, like the stiff stuff but from the looks of it I wouldnt even be able to fit it anywhere where the wheel wouldnt hit it and it could even provide some decent airflow..Any help?

 

[NJSHO]

I think im going to revise the route to go over the subframe instead of under it, and Im going to use the dust shields and attach the duct to them. I should have a mock up in a week.

 

[RJ-92]

Good looking idea, should work some. I need to do this too but I wondered what is that? ^^ The plastic coupler to the fog housing that u attached to hose to?

 

[yamahaSHO]

Those look like Naca Brake Ducts. I also have some, but mine are setup like Eric's.

 

[gimpysho]

excellent site for hoses ducts etc

Go to performancemarketplace .com
This is SEMA site it has alpha index by parts. it has mucho vendors & manufactuers. There is a co in Ill (I think with Naca duct hoses

 

[gimpysho]

site for air ducts & hose

Check out :
racerpartswholesale.com. Its located in Indy.
You can get a duct to pop rivet to goglight opening & some nice sturdy silicone 3" hose. total cost probably in $100.00 range or less . plus it'll last.
good luck . post results if you go this route. OK?
Gimpy

 

[yamahaSHO]

I've had horrible results with Racerpartwholesale.com on this product alone. After waiting 3 or so months, I finally had to cancel the order on the brake ducts. They had no clue when they would be restocked.

$100 is on the high side. I think I spent all for $40-$50 on my setup.

 

[Shoaz]

Yeah, mine was about $45 total as well, most of which is for the ducts.

Here are some pix to show how mine are routed:


Routing it alongside the subframe like this avoids contact problems with curbs, debris, etc. At full-turn in the tire just clears the outlet.




This method just blows air in the general direction of the caliper and rotor, which I've found is more than enough to make a big, big difference. More efficient cooling can be had by routing flex duct (as per NJSHO) and trying to get it right on the caliper or the center eye of the rotor. That's a much harder way to do it, but it would be more efficient.

In my case I wasn't having trouble with the pads overheating, I was just continually boiling the fluid. So I took the approach of keeping the caliper ventilated, which pretty much cured 95% of my brake troubles.

 

[RJ-92]

So if Racerpartwholesale.com sux, where is a good place to get these parts?

 

[NJSHO]

Last Piece

Finished the last piece of my ducts today and installed them:

I ended up cutting the top part of the dust shield away because of the hole I put in it trying to route the duct another way.

Basically what I did was take the stock dust shield and cut a whole in it large enough to fit a 3" down spout adapter in, and then I pop riveted it in place. This way the aim is held constant and there’s something a little more substantial to mount the duct to. I’m still not crazy about the routing of the hose because it is low to the ground, but i have another route which I will try when I have the car up to do the other side. Also the hose rubs a little at full lock for a left hand turn. I might just use smaller ducting (2 or 2.5 inches) which will give a little more room all over. Except for the naca duct everything so far has been purchased at home depot. Maybe I should ask them to sponsor me .

I got my naca ducts on ebay for 13 a piece buy it now. Here they are for much less NACA

 

[yamahaSHO]

I'd just remove the dust shield all together.

 

[NJSHO]

I purposely put them back on to mount the duct to. That was pretty much the point of my last post.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

I say ditch the dust covers completely, and simply direct airfow towards the calipers/rotors. All that plumbing, combined with road conditions and rotation of the knuckle.... your asking for problems.

That metallic heater duct is not designed to stretch and recoil..... repetatively. The steel wire will most likely fatigue and break.

 

[MaxOwnJoo]

looks kinda ghetto

 

[ManySHOs]

So if Racerpartwholesale.com sux, where is a good place to get these parts?

I've had good luck dealing with www.stockcarproducts.com for some stuff. Others swear by them. I don't have a stock car so I don't deal with them too often though..

Ian