Bought used 2010 SHO, a few questions and comments

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svtenthusiast

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Hey all! I just bought a used 2010 SHO with 51K miles in overall good condition for $18,500 with all options including Adaptive Cruise Control and Active Motion seats. Bought a Ford PremiumCare ESP 36K mile warranty on top of that. Alot of car for the money; impressed with the quality of trim and awesome powertrain. Car sat on the lot for about a year so I have been spending the last few days on TLC buffing out light scratches from careless snow removal by the salesmen and getting rid of all the grime from sitting out in the elements for that length of time. Clay bar took a ton of contaminants out of the paint and "back to black" on plastic trim has brought the car back to almost new condition.

Came upon this car after a bad 3 year experience with a lemon Focus and Escape that are the new "European" electronics/engineering which come to find out Ford doesn't have a clue how to support or service. I am much happier with the "old" Ford switchgear and electronics and the Gen 1 SYNC/NAV works faster and better than the MyFord touch ever will.

I have owned one SHO years ago-- a '97 model that was nice but not the best of the SHO years. My brother owned a '92 Plus model with a stick that was alot of fun but was worn out with 180K miles. My cousin had a '99 that was really watered down (decontented), sad last year for that generation.

On to my questions. The NAV CD/DVD player will not accept a disc. Nothing displays or happens when you press or hold eject, but it acts like there is already a CD in there. Nothing plays or displays on screen when you press the CD on the touchscreen either. Upon further inspection, it looks like a square metal tab is blocking the entry slot of the CD, like a safety because there is already a disc in there. Also, when pressing jukebox the screen displays a message that reads "Reading Hard Disk Drive" system does not progress from there. Has anyone else come across this?

The message center display in the dash seems to be slightly burned out near the right side where it displays the icons for low fuel, door ajar, etc. The right part of the icon slowly fades towards black. Is this a common issue?

The rotors have alot of surface rust where the pads do not hit on the face and they are also glazed from not being driven much for the past year. They are original and still work OK and are not pulsating at all. Is it worth getting these resurfaced as I don't need anything more than OEM brakes.

What's the consensus on the transmission fluid flush interval?

Last, it looks like the previous owner did not rotate the tires and two of them (probably previously on the front before the dealer rotated them) are worn on the inside all the way bald. The rest of the tire is 4/32. The two good tires are 7/32. Is this purely because of non rotation or is the suspension out of alignment?

Thanks much for any help you can give and I have learned alot here already. I changed the oil yesterday and it was a breeze the way Ford engineered the removal of the floor pan for access. I also plan to change the PTU oil when it's warmer next spring, as it looks like it's advisable with 51K miles on it. The car has had two PTU warranty fixes for leaking seals, so the fluid might not be too bad but it's worth checking. Also, when I test drove the car I was not getting heat, but so far it's resolved as the dealer topped off the overflow coolant tank with coolant.

Glad I bought the Ford ESP with all the technicalities of this car, but I think after I get these initial things worked out it will be a reliable, fun daily driver.
 

2011TAURUSSEL

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Welcome SVT. A lot of good questions. Personally since you just purchased it and have the extended warranty I would take back to dealer especially the CD portion.

Message center bulb burning out....possible but unlikely with only four years and that low mileage. Did you check the dimmer switch on the instrument panel it should be next to the headlight switch a fairly simple +/- Try that first full bright (+) and full dim (-) Beyond that same recommendation to have dealer take a quick look while still under warranty.

Rotors: Your discretion but see if they can even be re surfaced. With that mileage they might be beyond limits as a resurfacing could take them to below the min thickness. Any reputable dealer will probably deny resurfacing and recommend new ones. Not necessarily a bad thing when safety is involved. If in doubt and without proof of replacement either by previous owner or purchasing dealer I would recommend new ones at least the front. Get a good baseline starting point for future wear. Glazing and rust are common for lengthy sits....."Lot Rot" if you get new rotors try to find the ones that have the protective coating. The protective coating is becoming more common it basically provides a rut preventative coating on the entire rotor. The part that makes contact with the pads will wear off with time but keep the non contact part protected.

Tires: Your call but I would definitely recommend a four wheel alignment again to get a good base line. I know they are expensive but I would at least consider a new set on all four corners and keep the two best tread ones as spares to keep in the garage. If anything like the 2013+ models the spare tire wheel is not deep enough to accommodate the full size spare. Even without purchasing tires I would get alignment. If you think that you are getting tires get the alignment as soon as possible after tires to avoid premature wear.

BTW: Good call on the clay bar and welcome aboard.
 

SHOdded

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NAV/CD/Message Center: as stated above, take it in under warranty. Could be any number of things, including frayed wiring, defective components, etc.

Brakes: toss the OEM pads/rotors, get a Power Stop kit, or OEM rotors with aftermarket pads (EBC, Hawk, etc.). Weren't the greatest OEM for 2010-12 anyway. If you are SURE you are happy with the current brakes otherwise, have the rotors resurfaced, and then do a gently bedding-in procedure with the pads again so they mate properly to the rotors.

Trans: No consensus on fluid change interval. Has been sturdy, with exception of need of valve body/sensors needing replacement/modding on a few units. But replacing every 50K, and in this this case since you bought it used, now, is a great idea.

PTU: Every 25K-30K miles - fluid replacement. Drive gently until you get it done this spring, as you don't know a) the level, or b) the condition. Will need to put it up on jacks or a lift to do properly. Change the RDU fluid out while you are at it.

Tires: as above. You could probably fit the full-size spare, but deflated, not sure on that. Go with good all-seasons like Continental DWS, or General GMax or Pirelli Cinturato P7 tires, since you are in a COLD region of the country.

Heat/Engine Cooling: Keep an eye on coolant level, make sure you top it off with the coolant specifically in the vehicle at the moment if needed. There could still be air bubbles in there. Any ratcheting noises means the blend door needs to be replaced (usually the passenger side).

Battery: Make sure it has enough life. Don't know if it is covered under ESP. 2-3 years seems to be the average life people are getting out of it. Have occasionally heard of leakage leading to compromised cabling. And any electrical problems, battery is usually a good suspect to consider.
 

rubydist

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be aware that the extended warranty may have a 30-day waiting period before it covers anything - the idea is that the dealer should make the car right before they sell it to you. so you may need to wait a month before you take it in for the cd fix - check with the service department to confirm.

I would have insisted that the dealer check/fix alignment as part of the purchase negotiation. alignment is not covered under the extended warranty, iirc.

I would not worry about the surface rust on the rotors - it will come off pretty quickly on its own.

finally, I would strongly suggest finding a Lincoln dealer for service - the Lincoln guys are used to working on EcoBoost engines, so its standard stuff to them, not 'exotic' stuff like it is to most Ford techs. the warranty will be good at the Lincoln dealer as well.
 

svtenthusiast

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Thanks everyone for the replies! Sounds like I will need to build a list of items and then take it in for everything at once since the ESP is $100 deductible. I bought the vehicle out of state over 200 miles away so I didn't have a chance to find everything and/or have the dealer fix anything as it was a cold rainy day and wanted to get home. But that's the reason I bought the ESP that would cover most everything except wear items.

I did have the audio system reboot on me late last night after the new year festivities. It was playing USB Ipod. When it came back up (quickly I may add), it sounded like the DSP settings had changed but I checked all the audio settings and they were the same as I set them. Is there a diagnostics menu hidden behind a button sequence on this system?

Happy new year!
 

Feffman

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Congrats! Where did you buy it from? Pics?

Bought it from Fair Oaks Ford near Chicago. Very easy transaction including trade of my long faithful, 2004 Saab 9-5 AERO. Daughter and I road tripped up to pick it up. Fun day, if long.

Feff
 

jontyrees

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Bought it from Fair Oaks Ford near Chicago. Very easy transaction including trade of my long faithful, 2004 Saab 9-5 AERO. Daughter and I road tripped up to pick it up. Fun day, if long.

Feff
How much, how many miles, if you don't mind telling?
 

Feffman

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How much, how many miles, if you don't mind telling?

2010 SHO is CPO with nearly every option (I think) 29K miles for $21,000 and my old car(172,000 mile 2004 Saab). Not a phenomenal deal but I'm happy with it.

Feff
 

svtenthusiast

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Update on my original post here. Finally got the vehicle into the dealer after the touchscreen started rebooting several times while driving. They ended up replacing the whole unit. They at first tried to blame me for jamming the DVD player, but once they got it apart they found there was no disc in there.

A few additional issues cropped up including the rear sunshade getting caught and the active motion seats inflating on their own. Also the drivers seat the lower back bolsters don't inflate well. They replaced the rear sunshade, and claimed they found a setting for the active motion seat inflate on their own, which I know is BS. They wanted to charge me for diagnosis to take the seats out for the drivers seat bolster inspection, and they told me if they were punctured they would not be covered. I decided to pass on that after they said it would be almost $400 to diagnose it if the warranty didn't cover what they found.

They also replaced the entire instrument cluster for the burned out lines in the LCD where the notification symbols come up.

Lastly, while it was there I had them put new Goodyear Eagle Sport A/S tires on it. They price matched a local competitor and also had a $110 rebate when you put it on the Ford service credit card. Alignment cost $89 on top of that.

Hopefully this will be the end of issues for a few years. I am glad I bought the premium care warranty as I was in a rental for 7 days while they fixed it. I am sure it's paid for itself already with all the work that was done.
 

Feffman

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Into the dealer today for a loose passenger mirror (the lens, not the body) and funny smell (smells like propane so I'm guessing R134 leak in HVAC) when coming to a stop.

Feff
 
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Feffman

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So much for CPO being (and I quote) "Bumper to Bumper" . Mirror isn't covered $451. I truly hate being lied to.

Feff
 

SHOdded

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I think you can get the lens separately and install it yourself. SHOrod would have more insight on this for sure.
 

Swag

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So did the dealer look at the car for the smell? I have the same thing when i am at a stop light. The weird thing is that it is not all the time, so I'm sure when I take it to the dealer they will tell me they cannot find the issue.
 

steelgiant5

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That is exactly why I don't buy extended warranties. Dealers lie


Sent from my iPhone
 

SHOrod

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I think you can get the lens separately and install it yourself. SHOrod would have more insight on this for sure.

Yep, the mirror "glass" can be replaced separately from the mirror housing/assembly. However, the mirror glass is bonded to the chassis that snaps on to the mirror motor. If the mirror glass is wiggling around, it's probably due to play in the motor rather than an issue with the mirror glass itself.

-Rod
 

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