boggin issue loss of power

['94SHO]

Any body you can switch coil packs with? Also, when my maf went bad, it gave alk kinds of weird symptoms. It would idle funky, but at full throttle it
ran decent.. Any smell coming from your exhaust? A failing coil pack can act like this. At low rpm there is a slight miss or stumble that smooths out as you
rev it. I have had 2 cars that did this, and there were no codes.
The smell test is for the maf, my exhaust smelled funny, and the exhaust manifold got VERY hot It also could be a wiring/electrical issue,
which are very hard to diagnose over the internet... Hope you get it fixed!

 

[iwantashomtx]

That fit fit fit noise comes from the exhaust pipes in the back it does sound smooth at all. I could switch my coil pack with someone that im going to try thanks. i replaced the maf already no change. im using motorcraft the last 60k was at 120k and the car has 160k on it so its another 20k till i need another tune up. yeah no codes for sure yet. whatever the problem is it ruined a set of oxygen sensors because i had to replace them. i was getting codes for that. changed those still no change it the way it ran but the codes are gone.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

I agree this sounds like an electrical issue like a short-to-ground (erratic tach and idiot lights, which are voltage driven). A CPS failure/fault is going to result in the tach rapidly dropping to zero. First, get a free battery/voltage regulator test. Then start doing additional wiggle-tests to the main harness, as well as checking the grounding straps along the firewall.

You haven't recently had the engine, tranny, or subframe out have you?

 

[iwantashomtx]

no none of that i checked my voltages and grounds all good great suggestions

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Prior to your comments on the tach/air bag lights, my initial gut feeling was an exhaust valve

A burnt/worn exhaust valve or valve seat would produce many of the symptoms you described. One, it can result in predetonation when a partially open/incompletely sealed exhaust valve allows the unburnt exhaust gas between the heads and the catalytic converter to ignite. Two, it can result in inconsistent idle and throttle responses, depending on the severity of the exhaust valve/valve seat wear/damage. Three, constantly soaking the oxygen sensors with partially unburnt gas (as well as the occasional predetonation) will ruin oxygen sensors. Four, in some cases it will produce a rapid "fit-fit-fit-" sound from the exhaust pipe as some of the fuel charge that is drawn into the cylinder, seaps past the partially open/incompletely sealed exhaust valve during the compression stroke.

If you have access to a compression tester, the affected cylinder will have problems holding cylinder pressure relative to the unaffected cylinders. It may manifest itself as a cylinder that initially has good pressure which bleeds-off, or a cylinder that has low cylinder pressure relative to the other cylinders. It may also show in the cylinder balance test, following the KOER test.

 

[iwantashomtx]

i did the cylinder balance test it did not give me a error but that explanation fits my problem to a tee because i get gas that comes out of the tail pipe sometimes on a cold motor. What does this mean in a repair if this is the problem and has this happened alot?

 

[SonicRiot]

Gas odor from the exhaust is normal on cold start-ups due to the enriched mix.

Stop guessing and do a leakdown test and compression test.

 

[iwantashomtx]

its not gas odor its gas lol Is there a faq or doc on how to administer that test??

 

[SonicRiot]

Put each cylinder one at a time to TDC. Use a leakdown gauge to supply shop air through the spark plug hole. The gauge will show you the percentage of the leakdown. If there is a burnt exhaust valve or bad seat, you will hear and/or feel the air escaping out the exhaust. The same applies for the intake valves, but out the intake instead. Last, pull the oil cap and check for air. If it's escaping through there, you've got some ring, piston, or cylinder wall issues. This will all be confirmed by a high leakdown percentage.

A compression test is as simple as disabling the fuel system and hooking up a compression gauge to each spark plug hole, one at a time. Crank the engine and allow 3 "puffs." Compare each cylinder. Low compression on all cylinders is a timing issue. High compression indicates carbon build up. Finding low compression on an individual cylinder can indicate which cylinder my be the issue.

There's more to these tests, but this is the general idea.

If your car passes these tests, move on to ignition.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Excellent explanation!

iwantashomtx - some of the compression tester kits will come with instructions. There are procedures for leak-down testing in the Ford Service Manual. Additionally, you should be able to google directions on how to accomplish the various tests.

 

[iwantashomtx]

Thanks im going to test and see what happens.

 

[iwantashomtx]

well now the car is really bad and struggles to accelerate like no other doesnt really back fire as much though but man it struggles to make it to 30 then to 60 and so on its a snail lol. Im officially moving slower than a regular slo taurus lol

 

[SonicRiot]

c'mon... take her off the road and fix 'er!

 

[SolidState]

have you checked for crank cancer?

 

[iwantashomtx]

Man i dont have a garage right now or the money to do a fix i still have to drive here and there if i had a choice in that i would have fixed this already. My other sho i had that luxury had a garage. No no crank cancer im sure of that because it idles perfect it never struggles to run at all. Never has stalled once this whole time at all. no banging or knocking from the motor ive had several people look at it and listen for problems with stethascopes and what not.

 

[iwantashomtx]

if anyone in chicago is willing to lend me a garage ill pay them.

 

[voogru]

I have the same BS problem for the past 6 months, car was put away till I replaced the crankPS and replaced the crank seal behind the CPS, so no crank cancer, timing belt on correctly, 140 psi all 6 cylinders, multiple DIS swaps, multiple coil swaps, multiple MAF swaps, new cam position sensor, my next swap will be those Accel wires that are fairly new.:stuck:

 

[iwantashomtx]

i will find the problem eventually lol i need another car to drive.

 

[voogru]

I have the same BS problem for the past 6 months, car was put away till I replaced the crankPS and replaced the crank seal behind the CPS, so no crank cancer, timing belt on correctly, 140 psi all 6 cylinders, multiple DIS swaps, multiple coil swaps, multiple MAF swaps, new cam position sensor, my next swap will be those Accel wires that are fairly new.:stuck:

today after much thought I decided to pull wires at the coil while engine running and noticed #1 cylinder firing wierd, so upon further inspection I find the Accel plug boot burnt through and grounding out in the plug well.
jeez took me 6 months to find that
the hard plastic is burnt, just freaking wild :woohoo:

 

[SolidState]

that is a sign of massive, massive arcing. A Taylor Vertex representative described to me how that can happen.

I replaced my Accels with Taylors last week. All my problems are solved, except I had one improperly crimped and when I attempted to remove it, the terminal separated from the wire. Taylor is replacing the wire, but they did say that eventually heavy arcing will occur and the hard boot will melt and burn.