Another Rod Bearing thread... because I'm an idiot.

[Racer X]

Ok, so I installed rod bearings about 3 or 4 weeks ago in my 3.2L that I just installed into my '92 a couple of days ago, and has another 2 hours of labor or so before I can turn the key. And the more and more I think about it... the more I realize that I'm a ******* and probably lubed both surfaces of the bearings. I used 20W50 as an assembly ****, and again, this was about a month ago. The motor hasn't been started yet; just rotated by hand.

Is this as bad as I think it is, or am I overreacting?

 

[Mels]

That shouldn't be a problem

 

[Yamaha V6]

It's a HUGE problem Hamal, you should pull the engine back out, drive it back to Bob G & pull the engine apart in the back of his Ford Exclamation & coat those bearings with whale blubber oil on the backsides only.

Seriously though, next time, think about a moly-**** on the bearings. I've also used some 0-30 in the past, but I think 20-50's a bit thick.

Good luck with the new setup.

 

[sho'd]

hehe i lubed both sides of mine as well with assembly ****, started up find and no problems. it will heat up and run out anyhow.

 

[Racer X]

That's f'd up, Fred.

I used the 20W50 because I knew it'd be a while before I started the engine, and I wanted something to be there on initial startup.

Thanks for the replies guys. There's nothing like being 2 hours from starting up your new swap only to find out that you have to dig back in!!!

 

[AREA 91]

It's definately NOT recomended to **** the back saides of the bearings, but you will be fine. When you torque the rod cap in place, it "crushes" the bearings slightly, resulting in a tighter fit. You'll be fine.

 

[Off Road SHO]

The only issue you might have is that the oil on the backside added gap when you torqued the caps down. I don't think it will be a problem though. You torqued them down in two stages right?

Any oil or grease is okay for pre-**** since you won't plug in the DIS module until the oil pressure light goes out, will you. Nod your head "NO". Let it run at a high idle for 15 minutes or until it heats up completely. If you don't hear any rod knock, you're good to go. Good luck.

Tom

 

[Racer X]

I torqued the rod caps down in two stages, 25 and then 35ft.lb. measured with a click type torque wrench. And this is a preventative measure, not a corrective one.

Yes, the DIS will be disconnected for initial startup (just like I do for every oil change), and it'll be idling for a while, since I'll also be filling/bleeding the cooling system for the first time. Don't worry Tom, I'm not a complete n00b at this. I just have my... uh... moments.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Don't worry Tom, I'm not a complete n00b at this. I just have my... uh... moments.

Well, I'm an oldie and I still have my...uh...what were we talking about?

Tom

 

[Mels]

Sorry to interrupt, but has anyone seen my teeth?

 

[Racer X]

Sorry to interrupt, but has anyone seen my teeth?

Mel, check the stove on your porch, I think I saw them in there.