Another Problem... Starting Car

[Danielle]

Ok. So are you saying the car doesnt have to run for the alternator to charge the battery? I thought that since the alternator charges the battery, the car has to be running for the alternator to actually work. So that would explain why I have to keep jumping my car. Or should it stay charged? Because I have to jump in with my moms truck just to get power to the car.

I used my multimeter on my starter. Im getting proper voltage for the wire that runs to the battery. The next one I tested was the bolt next to it which would be the ignition wire. If i got volts when trying to start the car then it would be the clutch safety switch. I had zero volts before getting started. When it was started, i got .004...... So is that a major difference? Theres also a wire on the top that I dont know what it goes to.

 

[kevinspann]

Test the small wire (the one on top?) for 12V when someone tries to start the car.

 

[Danielle]

Test the small wire (the one on top?) for 12V when someone tries to start the car.

The wire at the top plugs into a metal piece. Thats the one Im confused on. What if I got 11 to 12 volts on it?

 

[luigisho]

Ok. So are you saying the car doesnt have to run for the alternator to charge the battery? I thought that since the alternator charges the battery, the car has to be running for the alternator to actually work. So that would explain why I have to keep jumping my car. Or should it stay charged? Because I have to jump in with my moms truck just to get power to the car.

You are correct that the alternator has to run to charge the battery. The battery should maintain a full charge. It won't if it's faulty, or if there is enough draining from the battery while the car isn't running, or the alt is not charging it properly.

A lot of this stuff is a 2 person job with the limited tools at home because you want to probe the wires while someone turns the key. You need to know there is enough voltage to actually start the car available and test for power at the most obvious choke points. Ignition switch, clutch safety switch, starter. So the battery or other hook up has to be good (12.5ish volts give or take) and you have to probe the power to and from the switches when the key is turned to start to energize the entire system.

Start by verifying there is enough voltage at the battery to start the car. I would then jump the clutch switch to see if that works. if not, leave it jumped there and move on to check other elements of the system. Electricity goes from the battery to either the ignition switch then the clutch switch (or vice versa) then to the starter. That's pretty much the path to turn the flywheel.

The only exception to this is if the motor is locked up internally then it will look like an electrical problem because the flywheel can't turn due to jammed internals. This is extremely unlikely.

 

[Danielle]

You are correct that the alternator has to run to charge the battery. The battery should maintain a full charge. It won't if it's faulty, or if there is enough draining from the battery while the car isn't running, or the alt is not charging it properly.

A lot of this stuff is a 2 person job with the limited tools at home because you want to probe the wires while someone turns the key. You need to know there is enough voltage to actually start the car available and test for power at the most obvious choke points. Ignition switch, clutch safety switch, starter. So the battery or other hook up has to be good (12.5ish volts give or take) and you have to probe the power to and from the switches when the key is turned to start to energize the entire system.

Start by verifying there is enough voltage at the battery to start the car. I would then jump the clutch switch to see if that works. if not, leave it jumped there and move on to check other elements of the system. Electricity goes from the battery to either the ignition switch then the clutch switch (or vice versa) then to the starter. That's pretty much the path to turn the flywheel.

The only exception to this is if the motor is locked up internally then it will look like an electrical problem because the flywheel can't turn due to jammed internals. This is extremely unlikely.

Im trying to see if its my Clutch safety switch and people keep telling me to put the wires together. Do I cut them? Also, they were telling me to use a paper clip but its not working, im thinking I am doing it wrong.

 

[Danielle]

Is the

You are correct that the alternator has to run to charge the battery. The battery should maintain a full charge. It won't if it's faulty, or if there is enough draining from the battery while the car isn't running, or the alt is not charging it properly.

A lot of this stuff is a 2 person job with the limited tools at home because you want to probe the wires while someone turns the key. You need to know there is enough voltage to actually start the car available and test for power at the most obvious choke points. Ignition switch, clutch safety switch, starter. So the battery or other hook up has to be good (12.5ish volts give or take) and you have to probe the power to and from the switches when the key is turned to start to energize the entire system.

Start by verifying there is enough voltage at the battery to start the car. I would then jump the clutch switch to see if that works. if not, leave it jumped there and move on to check other elements of the system. Electricity goes from the battery to either the ignition switch then the clutch switch (or vice versa) then to the starter. That's pretty much the path to turn the flywheel.

The only exception to this is if the motor is locked up internally then it will look like an electrical problem because the flywheel can't turn due to jammed internals. This is extremely unlikely.

Is there any chance that a fuse could control my clutch safety switch or what not. I checked unside on my fuse panel and noticed like 5 or so that were out. Do you know which fuse it would be?

 

[Danielle]

A new

Is the


Is there any chance that a fuse could control my clutch safety switch or what not. I checked unside on my fuse panel and noticed like 5 or so that were out. Do you know which fuse it would be?

A new update... I used my test light on the starter. I used it on the bolt with the battery connected to it. It lit up. I also used it on the bolt next to it which scared the crap out of me because it sparked and the starter made a noise. Then there is a plu at the top of the starter had no light for it and dont know what it does.....

 

[Danielle]

A new


A new update... I used my test light on the starter. I used it on the bolt with the battery connected to it. It lit up. I also used it on the bolt next to it which scared the crap out of me because it sparked and the starter made a noise. Then there is a plu at the top of the starter had no light for it and dont know what it does.....

And I took some pictures of my starter and the cord that I dont know what is. Its orange because we duct taped it. We never took off the negative battery cable and it sparked on us when removing the starter. Apparently the cable was bad so thats the reason for the tape. Doesnt that cable go above the two bolts where the little metal piece is. My brother couldnt remember where it went and thats where he plugged it into. Hopefully thats the right spot.

 

[luigisho]

Im trying to see if its my Clutch safety switch and people keep telling me to put the wires together. Do I cut them? Also, they were telling me to use a paper clip but its not working, im thinking I am doing it wrong.

I haven't had to deal with this, but I think the wiring comes in and there is a plug connector that attaches to another wire that has the plunger at the clutch pedal. So wiring has 2 wires, power comes in from one crosses the plug connector and gets stopped at the plunger to make sure you have the clutch in & don't start in gear. Then power goes from the plunger back through the connector and onward. You can jumper this with a wire or spade plug or whatever by undoing the connector and jumping the connector on one side of the wire. In other words ignore the wiring and plug connector from the plunger/pedal and just complete the circuit. Sounds confusing to type. Make any sense? This part may not be the problem. This removes this from the list of possibilities.

 

[Danielle]

And I took some pictures of my starter and the cord that I dont know what is. Its orange because we duct taped it. We never took off the negative battery cable and it sparked on us when removing the starter. Apparently the cable was bad so thats the reason for the tape. Doesnt that cable go above the two bolts where the little metal piece is. My brother couldnt remember where it went and thats where he plugged it into. Hopefully thats the right spot.

I haven't had to deal with this, but I think the wiring comes in and there is a plug connector that attaches to another wire that has the plunger at the clutch pedal. So wiring has 2 wires, power comes in from one crosses the plug connector and gets stopped at the plunger to make sure you have the clutch in & don't start in gear. Then power goes from the plunger back through the connector and onward. You can jumper this with a wire or spade plug or whatever by undoing the connector and jumping the connector on one side of the wire. In other words ignore the wiring and plug connector from the plunger/pedal and just complete the circuit. Sounds confusing to type. Make any sense? This part may not be the problem. This removes this from the list of possibilities.

Lol. Ya. Its a bit confusing. What part wouldnt be my problem? I just want my car to start already. Im thinking of just buying a new clutch switch when I get the money. I just dont understand how I can do it.

The switch is on the side of the clutch pedal. And there a connector thats there. I unplugged the connector. So now theres the connector that is connected to the switch. And the other end of the connector that goes somewhere. I dont understand how to go from there. You're saying that the connector end that is on my switch can be jumped by using a wire Or paperclip. I got lost from there on.

 

[luigisho]

I'm saying forget that switch for now. I assume that the connector has 2 wires and 2 contacts on each side of the connector. Is that correct?
If so, you bypass the switch (remove it from the whole equation) at the place where both wiring ends connect. Not from one connector to the other but to the same side of the connector. The side that is not attached to the switch at the clutch.

Think of it as a loop. Wires come in, one side is hot and one not, plug into a connector to the other wires that go to the switch on the pedal,and come back around through the other side of the connector and keep going back to the car. So when you depress the clutch and turn the key the electricity can flow all the way around. The switch is just there so you start safely out of gear, and the connector is there so if the switch goes bad you can unplug it and install another one easily.

I should really go look at this thing on my car but it's dark and freezing out there tonight.

 

[Danielle]

I'm saying forget that switch for now. I assume that the connector has 2 wires and 2 contacts on each side of the connector. Is that correct?
If so, you bypass the switch (remove it from the whole equation) at the place where both wiring ends connect. Not from one connector to the other but to the same side of the connector. The side that is not attached to the switch at the clutch.

Think of it as a loop. Wires come in, one side is hot and one not, plug into a connector to the other wires that go to the switch on the pedal,and come back around through the other side of the connector and keep going back to the car. So when you depress the clutch and turn the key the electricity can flow all the way around. The switch is just there so you start safely out of gear, and the connector is there so if the switch goes bad you can unplug it and install another one easily.

I should really go look at this thing on my car but it's dark and freezing out there tonight.

Ok. This is what my wires look like. In one pic, I have a paperclip through each end like someone told me but its not working.... Well. Im trying to upload pictures but its telling me file is to big. I have the switch on the clutch that leads to the wire, which leads to the little plug at the end of the wire, which leads to the other plug on the other wire. So I take the plugs apart so I have two Dangling. The plug(connector) thats attached to the wire which is connected to the switch will be the main piece I mess with.... The other side of the plug/wire, I will leave alone, right? The end of the plug(connector) on the switch side has two metal pieces which I assume you call the the contacts...? Am I getting any of this right?

Or are you saying I should cut the plug of the end of the wires and twist them together? Im learning a lot of different ways. I tried putting the paperclip in the end of the plug thats connected to the switch and it doesnt works. Others are telling me to cut certain wires and connect them to other wires.

Im just trying to get a complete understanding of what you are telling me.

 

[Ben]

Does it crank?

 

[Danielle]

Does it crank?

No. There is no crank

 

[Danielle]

I'm saying forget that switch for now. I assume that the connector has 2 wires and 2 contacts on each side of the connector. Is that correct?
If so, you bypass the switch (remove it from the whole equation) at the place where both wiring ends connect. Not from one connector to the other but to the same side of the connector. The side that is not attached to the switch at the clutch.

Think of it as a loop. Wires come in, one side is hot and one not, plug into a connector to the other wires that go to the switch on the pedal,and come back around through the other side of the connector and keep going back to the car. So when you depress the clutch and turn the key the electricity can flow all the way around. The switch is just there so you start safely out of gear, and the connector is there so if the switch goes bad you can unplug it and install another one easily.

I should really go look at this thing on my car but it's dark and freezing out there tonight.

I have so noticed that when I try starting my car, the dome lights above dim every time. My car battery will usually be at a 10.30 to 11 volt when I test it. After I try and start it a few times, it will drop to 5 to 7 volts.

 

[Ben]

We'll charge the battery, if you have good power, and you visually see a light change and the battery dies, it's either a JUNK battery, OR maybe that motor seized, Do you hear any clicks of the starter trying?

 

[Ben]

A full battery is 12.6 volts

 

[Danielle]

We'll charge the battery, if you have good power, and you visually see a light change and the battery dies, it's either a JUNK battery, OR maybe that motor seized, Do you hear any clicks of the starter trying?

Ya. I know I can hear a click sound. I already got the starter tested at oreillys and they said it was good. The battery is also good. Was tested. Im thinking of maybe testing the alternator. Even though it most likely isnt the problem.

 

[Danielle]

We'll charge the battery, if you have good power, and you visually see a light change and the battery dies, it's either a JUNK battery, OR maybe that motor seized, Do you hear any clicks of the starter trying?

And the motor isnt seized. Theres no heavy cluncking noise when trying to start it.

 

[FREAK_SHO]

It's the starter. Same failure as two/three replacements I encountered.