Danielle
Member
Ok. I just put on my new ignition switch. Ill look for the wire right now.
Another Problem... Starting Car
- Thread starter Danielle
- Start date
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luigisho
SHO Member
Is your DIS cracked? Have you tried a wiggle test there and on the main power wire loom?
Danielle
Member
I dont even know where thats at lol. Ill find it though.
Danielle
Member
Its still not starting. I put a new TPS on it. New Ignition Switch. New spark plugs. New spark plug wires. I used a test light and it shows no fuses blown under the hood. The positive wire lights up. I havent lit the starter but I took the whole starter to O'Reillys to get it tested and they said it was fine. The alternator is new. The battery is new. I dont know what else to do.
Danielle
Member
Where is the DIS located?
luigisho
SHO Member
It's the ignition module mounted on the side of the intake.
Danielle
Member
I took it off and it has no cracks . And what is the main power loom? So I can check that. Im running out of options right now. I cant figure out what is wrong with it.
luigisho
SHO Member
It's hard to diagnose many things on the internet. When you turn the key does the starter spin the flywheel? Does the engine turn over without firing? Typical no start problems are battery, starter, DIS module, Crank sensor, Cam sensor, fuel pump, CCRM, Coil pack, wiring problem.
Maybe you should post a video with audio so someone can get a better look at it. The hardest thing about situations like this is when something is wrong and you cross it off the list and think it's good.
Maybe you should post a video with audio so someone can get a better look at it. The hardest thing about situations like this is when something is wrong and you cross it off the list and think it's good.
Danielle
Member
Ill do a video in a few. Im not at the house right now
Danielle
Member
sperold
Last to Know
Nice video.
I noticed you did not highlight the small electrical switch on the clutch pedal that keeps the car from being started while in gear. You have to push the clutch pedal to the floor before your system allows you to roll over the motor.
That is an important issue and to test it, take the 2 wires going to that switch and jumper them together, then try to start it.
You can have the key in the start position, and it will not roll the motor over until you shove the clutch pedal to the floor.
That thing at the front of the car over your radiator is the CCRM (constant control relay module) and that clicking is your fuel pump relay making the pump start.
Those 2 small 10 amp fuses in your under hood fuse box, one feeds your ignition coil and the other is the Accessories feed, just for your information.
I think your issue is the clutch safety switch, look on the clutch pedal arm near the top and find the switch and jumper the wires together for now.
I noticed you did not highlight the small electrical switch on the clutch pedal that keeps the car from being started while in gear. You have to push the clutch pedal to the floor before your system allows you to roll over the motor.
That is an important issue and to test it, take the 2 wires going to that switch and jumper them together, then try to start it.
You can have the key in the start position, and it will not roll the motor over until you shove the clutch pedal to the floor.
That thing at the front of the car over your radiator is the CCRM (constant control relay module) and that clicking is your fuel pump relay making the pump start.
Those 2 small 10 amp fuses in your under hood fuse box, one feeds your ignition coil and the other is the Accessories feed, just for your information.
I think your issue is the clutch safety switch, look on the clutch pedal arm near the top and find the switch and jumper the wires together for now.
luigisho
SHO Member
Holy cow. You have your hands full with that car. Does the charger give you full power to start the car? When my battery went low 11's high 10's in voltage I didn't have enough juice to start the car. You can verify with a volt meter on the battery terminals. If it's a new(er) battery it should not be draining unless there is a good draw on the power while it's sitting or the alt is not recharging it. I would also tighten down the bolts that secure the DIS module as they (bolts) provide the ground for it. I can imagine how frustrating this is. Probably be a good idea to check voltage at the starter as well.
kevinspann
Don't take my advice.
A few things:
- When you put the starter back in, you did hook it up correctly, yes?
- If you have a multimeter or a 12 volt test light (what I'm assuming you tested the fuses with), pull the little wire off at the starter and see if it has power when someone tries to start the car.
- Tighten the bolts for the DIS (the ignition module that you checked for cracks). It's not the cause of your issues, but it does ground through a couple of the bolts, so it's best to have those in all the way.
- The box that clicks is the CCRM, but it doesn't affect power to the starter.
- Looks like someone has put an 80MM MAF on the car (the first thing you accidently pointed at when you said you changed your TPS). That's not necessarily bad, but if there is no chip in the back of the computer to tune it for the MAF, it would be better to have a stock MAF. Also not the cause of your problem, but something to look at in the future.
- As far as the power steering color, someone may have added in ATF which is red, to an already dirty system. A fluid change would go a long way. Brake fluid also looks quite nasty, and needs to be changed.
- I've never had a lot of luck trying to charge the battery though those painted battery terminals personally, I would check the voltage. Even if it were low, you should be getting some cranking action though.
luigisho
SHO Member
All the observable symptoms point to battery and starter, wiring and the clutch safety switch and the ignition switch is probably in there as well. Most of the other stuff going bad (controls for spark/fuel etc) would be most likely when the starter is turning over but the fuel is not igniting. I also remember having power issues with corroded wires so the voltage was choked off.
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Danielle
Member
I took a video of the safety switch. I don't know what it's "supposed" to do, but it looks like its doing its job??.... Maybe?
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mph1001
Member
The switch will malfunction internally. You could test it with a multimeter or unplug it and use a jumper wire to connect the two contacts on the connector. Essentially you are bypassing the switch to see if it's bad.
luigisho
SHO Member
Every switch connects and interrupts current flow. If it is damaged internally it can look fine but not operate. You can test them by checking for power to and from when the switch is supposed to be in the on position.
Danielle
Member
Ok. So unplug it and check it with the test light or multimeter? Will i stick the test light in the bottom of the plug and turn the switch? And if it doesnt light up, its a faulty switch?
mph1001
Member
The easiest / quickest way to check it is to unplug the connector going to the switch where it attaches to the clutch pedal. Then use a wire or even a paper clip on the connector side and insert into the connector so it's making contact with the terminals. Then try to start it.
Danielle
Member
Ok. So are you saying the car doesnt have to run for the alternator to charge the battery? I thought that since the alternator charges the battery, the car has to be running for the alternator to actually work. So that would explain why I have to keep jumping my car. Or should it stay charged? Because I have to jump in with my moms truck just to get power to the car.
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