another ircm fuel pump problem
- Thread starter zuup_2000
- Start date
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Well I did some more checking and here is what I have.
My IRCM took a crap, and after taking it apart, the lead from the yellow EEC wire to the EEC power relay in the box was toasted. I soldered a jumper wire in place of the burned lead (not for a permanent fix, just for testing), and the box was working again. I did a KOEO test and the system came up o.k., then I did the KOER test and a few codes came up, but they had nothing to do with the IRCM problems. They were just temp not up to normal codes, etc...
Anyway, I drove the car down the street, and it stalled. The jumper wire was slightly melted, and the 30A EEC relay fuse had blown. Im afraid to install my new IRCM thinking it may just blow again. I thought it had something to do with the fuel pump, but the fuel pump recieves power from a different source (black/orange wire) which still shows 12V.
I understand that the wire I soldered on the circuit board has a different restistance, but to blow a 30A fuse makes me wonder if I have a short.
I am considering placing inline fuses to protect the IRCM, and possible pinpoint which circuit is causing the problem. The only problem is picking the right size fuses. Does anyone know how much current the accessories pull, fuel pump, a/c compressor clutch, cooling fan, etc....
My a/c compressor does not work, so I thought it may have something to do with it.
anyway, sorry for rambling,
Mike
My IRCM took a crap, and after taking it apart, the lead from the yellow EEC wire to the EEC power relay in the box was toasted. I soldered a jumper wire in place of the burned lead (not for a permanent fix, just for testing), and the box was working again. I did a KOEO test and the system came up o.k., then I did the KOER test and a few codes came up, but they had nothing to do with the IRCM problems. They were just temp not up to normal codes, etc...
Anyway, I drove the car down the street, and it stalled. The jumper wire was slightly melted, and the 30A EEC relay fuse had blown. Im afraid to install my new IRCM thinking it may just blow again. I thought it had something to do with the fuel pump, but the fuel pump recieves power from a different source (black/orange wire) which still shows 12V.
I understand that the wire I soldered on the circuit board has a different restistance, but to blow a 30A fuse makes me wonder if I have a short.
I am considering placing inline fuses to protect the IRCM, and possible pinpoint which circuit is causing the problem. The only problem is picking the right size fuses. Does anyone know how much current the accessories pull, fuel pump, a/c compressor clutch, cooling fan, etc....
My a/c compressor does not work, so I thought it may have something to do with it.
anyway, sorry for rambling,
Mike
I always seem to think of something else after I post. After I installed the jumper wire, and the EEC fuse blew, the jumper wire was the only thing in the IRCM box that had burned. Now Im starting to think that if it was something after the EEC relay, one of the other leads would have burned also 
. Maybe it was just the EEC relay that is bad, and is shorting out. The red/green wire supplies 12v to activate the EEC relay, and it still shows 12V. I guess I will throw up a hail mary and install the new IRCM. I also noticed alot of rust where the box grounds intself. I will make sure and clean that up and probably run an extra ground strap to the box mount.
Oh well, maybe all this rambling will help someone else out later on.
. Maybe it was just the EEC relay that is bad, and is shorting out. The red/green wire supplies 12v to activate the EEC relay, and it still shows 12V. I guess I will throw up a hail mary and install the new IRCM. I also noticed alot of rust where the box grounds intself. I will make sure and clean that up and probably run an extra ground strap to the box mount.Oh well, maybe all this rambling will help someone else out later on.
If the new IRCM blows, I will probably consider doing that. Im wondering how much of a headache it would be to get it all wired correctly. Do you know of anyone who's done it and gave a diagram of how they did it. Im hoping that the new IRCM will fix the problem.
Can someone do me a favor and get a voltage reading off of your IRCM harness plug with the IRCM disconnected.
My car is a 92 MTX, and I think I found the problem. I was getting a 5 volt reading from the black/yellow wire that is for the A/C comp clutch (which shouldnt have any voltage running through it with the box disconnected), and this is with the IRCM box diconnected. I started messing with the wires and the voltage disappeared, so obviously there is a short in the harness.
The one I need checked is the RED wire in pin#24 position with ignition on and IRCM box disconnected. Im also getting a 5 volt reading from this wire, but I dont know what the voltage is supposed to be.
It splits off from the EEC and runs to the IRCM voltage inverter, fuel injectors, and about 5 other things. I wasnt sure if the EEC was supposed to be sending 5 volts through it, or if it was also shorted out. If someone could get me that voltage reading, or direct me to a place that shows what the values should be on the harness, I would greatly appreciate it.
Im glad I waited to hook up the new IRCM, and hopefully that short is the only problem.
I still cant see why there would be 5 volts coming from the red wire. When the EEC relay is activated, it sends 12V to the red wire before the red wire exits tha IRCM, which would expalin why the EEC relay wire melted. I am wondering if the EEC is bad. Boy am I glad I bought this friggen basket case.
My car is a 92 MTX, and I think I found the problem. I was getting a 5 volt reading from the black/yellow wire that is for the A/C comp clutch (which shouldnt have any voltage running through it with the box disconnected), and this is with the IRCM box diconnected. I started messing with the wires and the voltage disappeared, so obviously there is a short in the harness.
The one I need checked is the RED wire in pin#24 position with ignition on and IRCM box disconnected. Im also getting a 5 volt reading from this wire, but I dont know what the voltage is supposed to be.
It splits off from the EEC and runs to the IRCM voltage inverter, fuel injectors, and about 5 other things. I wasnt sure if the EEC was supposed to be sending 5 volts through it, or if it was also shorted out. If someone could get me that voltage reading, or direct me to a place that shows what the values should be on the harness, I would greatly appreciate it.
Im glad I waited to hook up the new IRCM, and hopefully that short is the only problem.
I still cant see why there would be 5 volts coming from the red wire. When the EEC relay is activated, it sends 12V to the red wire before the red wire exits tha IRCM, which would expalin why the EEC relay wire melted. I am wondering if the EEC is bad. Boy am I glad I bought this friggen basket case.
What are you refering to when you say the two wire sensors?
The only sensor the red wire goes to is the mass air flow sensor, is this supposed to see 5V?
When I had the IRCM box connected, I was showing 5V through five different wires. One of them was the shorted black/yellow wire for the a/c clutch, so that narrows it down to four.
The other four wires were
tan/orange- voltage goes to EEC
blue/orange-voltage goes to EEC
tan/green-voltage goes to data link connector, and EEC
red- voltage comes from EEC- goes to IRCM/IABV/IACV/fuel injectors/EGR solenoid/can purge solenoid/MAF.
Are these supposed to see 5V?
The only sensor the red wire goes to is the mass air flow sensor, is this supposed to see 5V?
When I had the IRCM box connected, I was showing 5V through five different wires. One of them was the shorted black/yellow wire for the a/c clutch, so that narrows it down to four.
The other four wires were
tan/orange- voltage goes to EEC
blue/orange-voltage goes to EEC
tan/green-voltage goes to data link connector, and EEC
red- voltage comes from EEC- goes to IRCM/IABV/IACV/fuel injectors/EGR solenoid/can purge solenoid/MAF.
Are these supposed to see 5V?
Well I dug into it some more this morning. With the key on, and IRCM disconnected, I was still showing 5V at the red wire, but I was getting very small voltage readings at about 5 different wires. They were ranging from .2-.5V, and it didnt make any sense.
With the IRCM box still disconnected, and battery removed, I unplugged the EEC from the harness to eliminate any sort of connection between the wires. I started checking for any continuity between the wires that were showing small voltage readings. Three of the wires that run straight from the IRCM box to the EEC were showing continuity between each other, and they were also showing continuity with the black and black/yellow wires that go to the a/c compressor clutch. With the EEC and IRCM both disconnected, these wires should not be showing anything (aside from the two a/c clutch circuit wires). I guess there is a major short somewhere in the main harness. I guess its time to get dirty, and do some serious digging. I cant understand how the KOEO test came back with a system o.k. code.
Oh well, I hope this will eventually help out someone else when I do find the problem.
With the IRCM box still disconnected, and battery removed, I unplugged the EEC from the harness to eliminate any sort of connection between the wires. I started checking for any continuity between the wires that were showing small voltage readings. Three of the wires that run straight from the IRCM box to the EEC were showing continuity between each other, and they were also showing continuity with the black and black/yellow wires that go to the a/c compressor clutch. With the EEC and IRCM both disconnected, these wires should not be showing anything (aside from the two a/c clutch circuit wires). I guess there is a major short somewhere in the main harness. I guess its time to get dirty, and do some serious digging. I cant understand how the KOEO test came back with a system o.k. code.
Oh well, I hope this will eventually help out someone else when I do find the problem.
With the battery hooked up, IRCM disconnected, and PCM disconnected, it shows:
Red wire-.1V
black wire- .1V
black/yellow wire-.1V
but the others no longer show any low voltage.
The other main power wires at the IRCM plug still show 12V.
I get the same reading with the key on and key off.
Red wire-.1V
black wire- .1V
black/yellow wire-.1V
but the others no longer show any low voltage.
The other main power wires at the IRCM plug still show 12V.
I get the same reading with the key on and key off.
One more quick note. I unplugged the battery, and still get a .1V reading at those 3 wires, and those wires only. What in the system would retain power after the battery was removed? Keep in mind that the PCM is still disconnected.
I know it will eliminate the hassle of the IRCM, but there is still a short in the A/C circuit. Also, the red wire showing 5V is still a concern, and I think it was the cause of the blown IRCM, unless someone else with no problems can test theirs and let me know if it is supposed to be showing 5V.
Bluestreak
I don't want to
OK, BUMP! What's up with the car - Fixed??
How did you know I was a BUM? Did my stinch give it away?
I will be sure to post it on here when I figure it out. I have a few projects I need to get out of the way first. I have to finish a few carb rebuilds, along with rebuilding a lower unit for a customer's boat that is taking up my shop space. Once that is out of the way in the next couple days, I will put the car in there and start tearing it apart.
I will be doing the upper 60K, and rod bearings, over thanksgiving holiday. I also have a leaking fuel injector O-ring, or rail. Since I will have to pull the intake to do all that, it will be a good time to get access to the wiring harness and start stripping it apart.
I know for sure that there is atleast 1 short in the A/C comp clutch wiring, so I will go ahead and check everything 100%.
I hope I can control my "might as well" urges, since they always seem to cost me an arm and a leg when Im done.
I am thinking I will need to go ahead and replace the cats and pipes while they are dropped down. You know, I might as well, since its apart
I sure dont miss working on northern (rust belt) vehicles.
Any chance you can uplug your IRCM box and get me a voltage reading from the red wire with the key on.
I will be sure to post it on here when I figure it out. I have a few projects I need to get out of the way first. I have to finish a few carb rebuilds, along with rebuilding a lower unit for a customer's boat that is taking up my shop space. Once that is out of the way in the next couple days, I will put the car in there and start tearing it apart.
I will be doing the upper 60K, and rod bearings, over thanksgiving holiday. I also have a leaking fuel injector O-ring, or rail. Since I will have to pull the intake to do all that, it will be a good time to get access to the wiring harness and start stripping it apart.
I know for sure that there is atleast 1 short in the A/C comp clutch wiring, so I will go ahead and check everything 100%.
I hope I can control my "might as well" urges, since they always seem to cost me an arm and a leg when Im done.
I am thinking I will need to go ahead and replace the cats and pipes while they are dropped down. You know, I might as well, since its apart
I sure dont miss working on northern (rust belt) vehicles.
Any chance you can uplug your IRCM box and get me a voltage reading from the red wire with the key on.
Bluestreak
I don't want to
I'll see if I can.
P.S. - I wasn't calling you a bum. I see now that I have a typo - OPS, I ment to say BUMP!!! m HAAHHA Sorry. I'll go fix it!
P.S. - I wasn't calling you a bum. I see now that I have a typo - OPS, I ment to say BUMP!!! m HAAHHA Sorry. I'll go fix it!
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