Another AC problem

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97SHOgt

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Has anybody had this problem, could've been posted before but I didn't look to hard. Anyways, my problem is the air conditioner will blow cold or cool at least for about 10-15 minutes, then goes warm. Really gets on my nerves and would like it to be fixed. Compressor problem? It also seems like it blows colder when the fan is on a lower speed, and blows hot on higher speeds. I don't think it could be a leak since it does blow cold for awhile. Any ideas? It's getting old.
 

BodylessSHO

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Could be a low pressure switch, or needs a little freon.

Watch the compressor and see when it turns off. Then try to jump the low pressure switch and see if it'll turn back on and be cold again. If so, you might have a bad switch.

Could be your compressor, too.
 

nothingtoseehere

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SHOtimer said:
Your compressor clutch most likely needs to be adjusted (the gap is too big).

Doug

Agreed. Also, do the basics. Clean the condensor, check the pressure, run a system test, etc.
 

rickshaw

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I have the same problem. My car has 145K and never been serviced. My buddy is in the cooling and heating business and said that your system will shut down when it senses a low freon condition.

I'm charging my system first, then will check other areas as suggested in thie thread.

rickshaw
 

ArkanSHO

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Two ways to look at it, if you have the gauges, the pressure test is free, otherwise the clutch shim removal is also free, but will take you 20 to 30 minutes and also is free if you are so inclined.
 

97SHOgt

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Is there a good way to go about the shim removal. I tried to research v8sho.com but I'm still confused. Can anybody spell out this process for me because I've never heard of it until now. I just need to get this thing working again. Any more help would be great.
 

Ian Macoomb

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I asked about this yesterday on the V8 mailing list. Here's some of the responses I got:

Eric Lehman - "Nut in the middle of the pulley is either a 14 or 15mm. Once you Break
it free it spins easily - I just wedge a Flatblade Screwdriver between
2 of the 3 rivets on the front of the clutch, hang the wrench off the
nut and smack the handle of the wrench to shock the nut loose. Impact
wrench has a similar effect.

The pulley FACE lifts out of the Outer pulley - No resistance, just
slides out. The Shim is on the Shaft Behind the face part."

Carter - "Even with all the crap mounted from my compressor I was still able to do this without dropping the subframe and in less then 90 minutes in 95 degree heat in my gravel driveway. It really isn't that hard people. I didn't need anything out of the ordinary except for a big pair of Channel Locks to hold the pulley to loosen the bolt. I could have used one of those real cheap rubber-strip flex wrenches to do that though, but I don't have one. The pulley basicly just fell off once the nut was loosened and removed. I did not have to move the compressor any more then enough to get a socket into the pulley to remove that nut. the belt does have to come off. But on the inside front lip of my hood is a routing diagram, which in my case isn't correct as I have a couple of additional pulleys and obstacles to route around."

I haven't tried it yet myself but from what I gather you need to remove the three bolts on the compressor so that you can drop the compressor down so that you can access the nut that holds the clutch on. Pull the clutch off and either remove or replace the shims.
 

ArkanSHO

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And just so it's clear because somebody didn't understand, yes, you have to remove the serpantine belt, but there is a routing diagram on the forward inside lip of the hood to assist in putting it back on. Also, no, you do not have to bleed the system off to drop the compressor since it is only coming down far enough for you to get access to the nut in the front of the clutch.
 

97SHOgt

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Just another question, why is this a fix to this problem? If it comes from the factory like this, and works (for awhie anyways) why does removing the shims help it? Does something loosen or tighten up over time? Just curious.
 

black93sho

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I think it happens when some of the clutch material wears away. Eventually you will have to buy a new clutch.
 

ArkanSHO

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The "clutch" on the compressor is made up of some material that is thick enough that when it is new would catch and either cause it to be engaged all the time or just slip enough to overheat it so a spacer is placed in there to keep this from happening but since a clutch wears, the gap becomes to much for the electromagnet to overcome.
 

naval-avi8or

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97SHOgt said:
Just another question, why is this a fix to this problem? If it comes from the factory like this, and works (for awhie anyways) why does removing the shims help it? Does something loosen or tighten up over time? Just curious.

The clutch is electromagnetic. once the clutch material wears past the max gap range the electromagnetic clutch doesn't have the ability to pull the clutch plate and engage.
 

emgee

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I have 111K on my 97. Had the a similiar intermittent problem but the key factor was air temp and engine comp temp. If the car sat in the sun all day here in sunny FL. I no sooner got 3 blocks away and the ac was hot. Ended up replacing the clutch with a new one. Blows like Ice now, thank God.
 

emgee

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Shopped around with Dealers only due to time constraints. Lowest cost on new clutch, evac and recharge was 780.00. I KNOW you can get a better deal and I let the dealer talk me out of just replacing the entire compressor.

Reading the threads, with some basic equipment and time you can change the clutch yourself, I see guys doing it all the time. About 20 years ago I would have tried it but between commuting, the kids and the wife, I just don't have the time.
 

97SHOgt

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Ouch! If it comes down to $780, I'll keep letting the wind blow through my hair and get used to it.
 

emgee

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Being born and growing up in New England I am not much for heat tolerance though. Anything above 72 is pretty hot for me and turns be into all kinds of different personalities. Florida is not a place not to have AC.
 

nothingtoseehere

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You can deshim or replace the clutch so unbeleivably easy it is not even funny. I did it in my driveway in a short aount of time. I did not remove any belts. Lower the front of the subframe enough to where you see the nut for the clutch and can fit a socket over it. Hold clutch in palce with flathead screwdriver, wack ratchet to loosen nut. Remove nut. Shimmy the clutch right off. Remove shim and put it all back together.
 

emgee

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I fully agree with you, There are so many posts on this site alone as well as photos and lists of equipment you will need. Very detailed. Like I said, if I wasn't in the closest place next to ****, perhaps I would have delayed the fix but I couldn't.
 

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