AC blows hot, straings motor, hot lines

[kbninja]

The cause?
When the hurricane came I hit some water that didn't seem too deep. Well then I came to the realization my velocity/ exhaust velocity need to remain nonzero or I'm seriously screwed.

I had just taken off that splash shield AND compromised the under panel insulation by turning some exhaust hangers up that punctured it. Water got in through floor panels. That issue has been more or less remedied. The placement of compressor is very low passenger side, and that whole bottom part of it might have been submerged or close?

Anyways, AC worked a few more days till I was hot rodding with my friend in car and boom- starts blowing hot.
He had a gauge from an old AC recharge canister so we hooked it up. I was reading 85-100+ lbs of pressure. It was literally hot enough to burn you.

Yesterday looking under the hook I noticed something. The line that feeds to break booster, is closed to the silicone y in the intake tract piping (driver side read of engine compartment). That line got SO HOT, it actually deformed / almost melted through the pipe.
It sounds like the AC clutch is kicking on if I turn it on but just blows hot

 

[kbninja]

I don't know nobody asked but I'm going to update this just in case it helps somebody one day. :
I'm going to go list things I have discovered through testing:

-replaced compressor/w clutch
-replaced fuel pump control module
-removed cabin air filter
-added battery disconnect, as the batteries is dying now because of some current draw somewhere.


1. The compressor clutch fuse if replaced, AC will blow cold for a little while like 5 minutes or so. Then the fuse blows like clockwork. So I know it works in principal.

2. Probing the fuse block I have a short across the compressor relay switching pins receptacle. (I replace the compressor, did not fix issue)
2b- I need to disconnect the compressor and then probe those pins in the fuse block again because it could be in the harness.

3.) Other odd electrical issues are now occurring. This leads me to believe that it may be a grounding issue. I'm in Lincoln MKS not a SHO. My ECU and audio amplifier are literally in the trunk and if I go look.... Everything is pristine.

3a. The fuel pump is on always. Kills battery.
3a1. Replaced fuel pump control module, no dice.

3b. The electric fans under the hood run always. They **** the battery.

3c. I added a battery disconnect so that I can s till operate my vehicle.

3d. Considering above issues in some of the posts I've read, I'd note that my motor has no problem cranking or starting.
I'm going to Lincoln MKS not a show

3e. Testing the compressor clutch relay I get 147 ohms through the energizing coil. The switching pins test open while not energized.

Going through the lines I cannot find a leak of any substantial size, really stretching by the presence of UV die. To support this conclusion, and put some more refrigerant in it and it will no longer hold anymore. It's held for weeks now.

 

[SHOrod]

2) The field coil for the compressor clutch is, well, exactly that - a coil of wire. It will read as a very low resistance. I'm not exactly clear where you're measuring this continuity at the relay, but if it's effectively across the compressor clutch coil, then yeah, you'll measure a short. Unplugging the compressor clutch and retesting is a good plan. If the short goes away then (again, depending on exactly where you're measuring) don't be quick to condemn your new compressor assembly.

- Now that I've read down through 3e I'm especially confused where you're measuring the short. 147 ohms through the coil seems high, although I'm not looking at a specification for the coil to know if that's high, it just seems high for a coil of wire. That would mean it only uses 100 mA of current to engage the clutch. That also would not be enough to blow the fuse.

I'm also confused by your final sentence. Are you saying you put more R-134a in the system and now there seems to be a leak that you didn't have before?

-Rod

 

[kbninja]

there are two coils you're refencing.

i. 147 ohms -> is the real component of the inductance of the relay's energizing coil. this requires very little currentyii. current that is switched through the rela9 going to the compressor / compressor clutch coil. I believe THIS is what is killing fu