ABS Delete and Master Cylinder Talk. NEED INSIGHT

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zach44102

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Ok tonight my wheels have been turning and I am pretty set on removing the ABS from my race car. My first thoughts were to find a 89 donor car but I think it can be done a little easier.

The factory system is a crossed system. That means that the Primary Piston supplies brake fluid to the left front and right rear calipers. The Secondary Piston supplies brake fluid to the right front and the left rear. Well I have came across some information and I am trying to get everything straight. SHO Master Cylinders have 2 ports which would mean I would have to tee off the lines somewhere BUT I found out that GL Taurus Masters have 4 line inputs which would mean it would be as simple as cutting the lines, bending new line and running the lines to each port? I am going to assume GL masters do not have 4 pistons so that still means that they will need to be tied together like they are from the factory.

I dont really know what I am asking but I just need some insight on it before I got hacking on a perfectly functioning brake system.

Here is a 4 line GL master. Non ABS.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...itemIdentifier=15605_429915_0_4299,6831,22511
 
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hawkeye18

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Are you trying to remove ABS so you get more predictable braking on the track? Or are you doing it to lose the weight of the ABS pump/controller?

If the latter, then I'm fairly certain you can just remove everything upstream of the octopus (you know, the brake distribution block) and just run new lines directly from that to your GL master cylinder.

Be aware, though, that you may need to get a new vacuum booster as well, as they were different types depending on what brake setup you got. I'm fairly certain the ABS boosters were different than the non-ABS boosters. Something about adjustable rods.

If you aren't trying to save the weight, or you decide it isn't worth it, simply remove the controller, cut and cap the harness going to it, remove and cap the brake fluid hose going from the MC to the ABS pump and cut the wire going from the ABS test connector to the dash light (it's a lot easier than removing the light, unless you do the ol' syringe-and-cold-water trick). You will no longer have ABS.
 

zach44102

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I want to do it for weight purposes. I would actually like to mount a lightweight battery there in its place.
 
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zach44102

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Be a man... You don't need no booster.

No thanks, im interested in stopping the car before i hit the wall at the end of the track.

Since im replumbing the brakes i will probably move the master and booster inside the car. Would clean up the engine bay.
 

yamahaSHO

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Yeah... Where the **** are you going to put a booster in the car.


WAY over thinking this tin can here.
 

zach44102

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On the opposite side of the firewall.. Its a cosmetic mod. Trying to delete and relocated a lot from the engine bay.

I would post pics of a good example but cant right now
 

yamahaSHO

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Still not sure how you'd make that work. If you're really trying to remove weight, I don't understand why you don't delete the booster. You have enough leg strength to stop ONCE. It's not an uncommon mod for cleaning up the engine bay.

You're doing cosmetic mods on a gutted race car? You're trying to remove weight out of the engine bay (over the drive wheels) on car you want to get the most traction out of up front?
 

zach44102

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Jason i am aware i am removing weight that is over the drive wheels. But there is not much more i can remove from the rear. Any weight i do keep in the car i am trying to keep as low as i can get it and up front.

Yes i am doing cosmetic mods. Just because its a tin can does not mean it cant look good. Id like to pop my hood and people see there was some time invested in it.
 

yamahaSHO

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This car is evolving from more than just setting records now. Can't say I get it, but meh...
 

zach44102

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The cars main purpose is still to run faster than any boosted/sprayed car N/A. But i still want the car to look decent. Its not a show car but i dont want it to be a eye sore.
 

Phoenix

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The cars main purpose is still to run faster than any boosted/sprayed car N/A. But i still want the car to look decent. Its not a show car but i dont want it to be a eye sore.

Spend time thinking about go fast stuff , instead of thinking about putting the booster on the rooftop.

Come on now.

And you might be able to pass a run of the mill mild shoshop supercharged sho which is in the 260+hp ball park , but it ends there , sorry to break it to ya.
 

zach44102

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Spend time thinking about go fast stuff , instead of thinking about putting the booster on the rooftop.

Come on now.

And you might be able to pass a run of the mill mild shoshop supercharged sho which is in the 260+hp ball park , but it ends there , sorry to break it to ya.

Lol you saying it wont be fast enough to beat anything else? ;)

Lets just say if i dont trap over 112 ill crush it.
 

yamahaSHO

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I'd gladly run you from a 70mph roll (first one to 185?), but when it comes to the drag strip... I will pull up to the line with my A/C on and the radio blaring, run mid/low 11 without the fear of breaking anything, and then drive it to go get dinner.
 

zach44102

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I'd gladly run you from a 70mph roll (first one to 185?), but when it comes to the drag strip... I will pull up to the line with my A/C on and the radio blaring, run mid/low 11 without the fear of breaking anything, and then drive it to go get dinner.

Lol roll racing. :snicker:

It is ok, I mean I don't blame you or anyone else for buying a car with more potential. It is the easy way out. I like doing what I am doing with the car.
 

hawkeye18

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Lol roll racing. :snicker:

It is ok, I mean I don't blame you or anyone else for buying a car with more potential. It is the easy way out. I like doing what I am doing with the car.

SHOs have way more potential than, say, a Renault Dauphine. You're always taking the easy way out compared to somebody else.
 

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