93 MTX STILL Won't Start

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bleavitt23

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Hey Guys,
Ever since I got back from vacation last month the SHO has been crapified. At first it would start and run OK (except for the bucking and studdering upon acceleration), but for a month now it won't start at all.

So far I have replaced the CCRM, CMP, Spark plugs and wires along with the Valve cover and Plug well gaskets (There was oil in the spark plug wells - not the problem though) and now I am headed for the CKP. I'm wondering if I'm going in the right direction here. It is getting spark and fuel pressure reads 40psi at the rails. Also, all of the timing marks (on the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys) line up correctly and I see no bad grounds or vaccum leaks.

Last time I pulled the memory codes I came up with 211, 214 and 542. KOEO codes only came up with 116 and 114 and since I could not start the engine to warm up the car this does not concern me.

Does anybody have any ideas here?

Thanks
 

SHOGIRL1994

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MAF? This seemed to be the problem with our 93 after experiencing the same symptoms of bucking and odd idling, although the previous owner had taken the MAF off to make room for a modified Civic hot air intake and we were running MAF-less. Stuck a new MAF on it and it seems to be running good so far.
Could be TPS also... these kinds of problems will kick you in the butt, they're hard to diagnose.
 

Rockledge

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211 is a crank posiition code. 214 is a cam positon code. So it sounds like an ignition system issue.

The CMP has already been replaced and you said you are going to replace the CKP. If the problem persists after replacing the CKP, then I would think about the DIS module.
 

farley556

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It might be the IAC (idle air control valve), I had the no start problem like that. For awile it would have trouble starting, but it would turn over, but then after that it just did not start at all. You can try to tapp on the IAC valve with a wrench and test to see if will start. They are $75. I dont know though, i just thought i would give you my ideas.
 

schwagman85

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Rockledge said:
211 is a crank posiition code. 214 is a cam positon code. So it sounds like an ignition system issue.

The CMP has already been replaced and you said you are going to replace the CKP. If the problem persists after replacing the CKP, then I would think about the DIS module.
i would put money on the CKP
 

bleavitt23

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I was trying to put off replacing the CKP for as long as possible, but with the codes I got I somehow knew in the back of my mind I would have to do it. I'm about halfway there now I just need to get the pulley remover to get the rest of the way. At least if it's not the problem I won't have to worry about the CKP going bad for a while. :shrug:
 

93SHO'nOFF

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If it is getting SPARK,FUEL to the rails,and Timing is right on.
I would check 3 more things:
1)COMPRESSION----what actual reading is ???psi
2)INJECTORS----using a noid light plugged into the harness at the injectors
to see if it Blinks while cranking.This would verify that the PCM is firing the fuel injetors and that wiring is ok.
Having fuel at the rail doesn't always mean it's getting into the cylinder.
3)FUEL QUALITY---Is gas good?...I've ran into a few no starts with this problem.Bad GAS...
It seems like you are taking the right steps in pinpointing the problem.You will get it.
Good luck
:thumb:
 

masho95

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I've seen my buddies SHO throw the 211 214 codes due to a bad power wire splice to the PCM... check the grounds and power connections to the PCM.... if one is bad it could be causing your problems.
 

sdpatt

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With the 211 and 214 codes occurring simultaneously, I would look at the common denominator: the DIS. First, check the electrical connectors to this module. Inspect for clean contacts and solid connections.

If no joy after that, check the ground path to the DIS. Are the DIS mounting screws snug? Are the 12mm bolts that secure the intake balance tube to the front and rear plenums tight? Is the ground strap installed and corrosion free on the top, passenger side intake manifold bracket bolt?

If possible, it may be telling to try a second, known to be operable DIS to see if there is any difference.

With the 114 (IAT) and 116 (ECT) both out of range, I would clear the codes (pull the jumper when the codes are flashing during the KOEO test) and rerun the test. Unless you are in arctic or Great White North temperatures, there may be a wiring harness problem.

It is most likely not the crankshaft position sensor. That module either works or it doesn't. If you are getting spark then it is working. The bucking and stuttering prior to the no start condition is also not a CPS (CKP) symptom.
 

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