92 sho issues

[Justin Ashmore]

Have a 92 mtx so couple months ago car lost power and dies on hwy. had it towed wouldn't start. So the process began. I replaced the fuel pump and filter. Next was the water pump. Car started up ran fine then one day it started to gasp for air. Made the sound 3 times and died would start back up but then would make sound and die. Car has been sitting cause won't start. So I replaced the ect , pcm, icm, coil pack, spark plugs , wires, belts and timing belt, cam sensor , crank sensor, knock sensor, injector gaskets,. It started ran good 2 days then it came back again. Rpms drop to 0 while in gear. I am now to a spot I don't know where to go next. Any help or leads would be appreciated. Oh and this is the first car I have ever worked on. Thanks

 

[OG-SHOguy]

First of all, Welcome to the group! now to get down to it, car does not run right now correct? Try this and report back.....try turning key on and let the fuel pump cycle then turn off (dont try to start it)....do that a couple times and then try to start it....IF it starts up then you are looking at a fuel related issue.

Report back how it goes.

 

[SHOdded]

Welcome to the community! How many miles on your '92, and what is the 60k maintenance history? SO many possibilities! I see the TPS (and DIS and IAC) was not replaced LOL!

Which plugs & wires did you put in? Not really suspecting them or the routing coz you say it ran fine for 2 days?

Was there a leak at the cam sensor, could it be leaking again? We were told to shy away from FelPro and use National gaskets instead, but installing it can still be a little tricky.

What fuel pump did you use? Hopefully not an Airtex. Check the vacuum hose at the regulator, see if it smells like fuel. Might have a faulty regulator.

Is the car a CA/emissions state car? Worthwhile checking the EGR passages (aka nostrils), the EGR tube and the DPFE.

Any time the intake is removed and installed, check for pinched wiring as well as cracked DIS connectors. Also make sure the backside of the DIS is properly greased (thin layer is sufficient).

There is always the battery/alternator/starter wiring. Is the battery holding charge between shutdown/startup?

 

[zoomlater]

Welcome! What codes did you have and still have now?

 

[Justin Ashmore]

Fuel is working fine and it is not throwing any codes. 111 is all I get. It started the other night ran for 15 seconds and died now won't start again. I was told could be a short somewhere. The starter is on my list of things to change. When it did give me codes I changed what I could. I'm checking for spark again today. And looking at the egr and mass air sensor. The rpms while at idle would be at 800 and running the oil light will light up a little bit and flicker but not bright. I will get the info on what parts I have installed and brands

 

[black92]

You mentioned loosing the tach, which is a sign of a failing cam sensor. It is also common that an engine temp sensor (not the gauge sensor) that is faulty will cause an engine to run so poorly it will hardly run when it starts to heat up (sometimes in minutes).

 

[Justin Ashmore]

You mentioned loosing the tach, which is a sign of a failing cam sensor. It is also common that an engine temp sensor (not the gauge sensor) that is faulty will cause an engine to run so poorly it will hardly run when it starts to heat up (sometimes in minutes).[/QUOT


The tach went to 8000 rpms but car was not running and had not started. I didn't try to start it at that time. I got out did a couple things got in turned key on tach was back to normal and has not acted up again. As for when I was driving I would lose power and tach would bounce little then stop. I have also noticed when it started it sounds and feels like it is running fast when cranking. When it started it sounded like it slowed up and lights dimmed a little and started it was odd.

 

[SHOdded]

How much "dimming"? You sure the alternator is putting out correct voltage?

 

[Justin Ashmore]

How much "dimming"? You sure the alternator is putting out correct voltage?

. It only did it once and has not again. While at idle the oil light flickers a little bit when it's about to die I can feel it in the car. I put code reader on and I got 111 and that is all I have been getting for a month at least no other codes come up always get pass. It has been sitting for a week now and still won't start even after I disconnect the battery. Could the the exhaust cause this issue ? As for the 60k main I have no idea if it had ever been done. All parts looked original when I bought it. That's why I started to replace things. Is this the best way to talk or are you ok calling and talking with me ? If so 425-760-4612 is my num can call now or anytime. I can explain it easier that way.

 

[rubydist]

Just to make sure we are clear - now it won't turn over? or it turns over but doesn't start?

Please pull the codes without the code reader - jump the connector and count the flashes on the check engine light. Many of the obd1 code readers are unreliable and we want to be sure there are no codes that the reader is not seeing.

Disconnect the cam sensor and try starting the engine. You will likely need 2-5 cranking attempts to get it to start this way, but once started it should run normally, although you will not have a tach display without the cam sensor.

Let us know what you find.

 

[luigisho]

You don't have to worry about the oil light flickering in this case. The oil pump is mechanical and oil pressure drops enough to trigger a light when idle drops below normal. So it's a symptom of another problem in this instance.

 

[itwonder]

Basic question - when cranking it, are you getting a spark(s)? Easy to test with a timing light , Tool Aid 23790, etc. You can also probe the wires at the DIS using an LED type (not incandescent) 12 volt test light to check the various signals that operate the ignition system. There is a wire for each of the 3 coils; those should be blinking on and off when cranking. Likewise for the wire from the crank sensor. The wire from the cam sensor will blink at 1/2 the rate of the crank sensor. The pin-out for the DIS can be found in the SHO Engine Book , which you can download at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/77a1h1wsvvdmtox/AACBSbusdJqRt-PIONbmMpeTa?dl=0

Make sure the bolt in the intake manifold that grounds the DIS is in place. You can also assure the DIS is grounded by grounding either of the lower mounting screws.

 

[Justin Ashmore]

So new one for all. Code 551 is imrc is there a way to bypass it or find a new one ?

 

[zoomlater]

Take a look at this thread if you need an IMRC. I've bought these off ebay and replaced the one that failed on my 94

https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/secondary-butterfly-vacuum-canister.132683/#post-1453906

 

[SHOMON]

Dorman part# 600400 $15.06 on rockauto. Just remove it from the plastic bracket it comes attached to.