usvet101st
New Member
Makes sense. I was under the impression DIS=Direct Injection System.
I'll Post an update. Once that has been inspected/replaced.
92 SHO bulking, sputtering
- Thread starter usvet101st
- Start date
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I'll Post an update. Once that has been inspected/replaced.
luigisho
SHO Member
There are screws that acts as electrical grounds for the DIS so make sure none are missing. Echo above with heat paste. The intake heats up pretty good so this helps protect the electronics.
Look at these posts for the diagram regarding module and ground screws/bolts
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/94-taurus-sho-won’t-start-weak-spark.140841/
Look at these posts for the diagram regarding module and ground screws/bolts
https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/94-taurus-sho-won’t-start-weak-spark.140841/
usvet101st
New Member
STATUS UPDATE!! I think i was chasing something that may have been fixed(I failed to RESET the codes for the past few days). I had 10 min to play this morning before work. I disconnected the battery & drained any residual energy stored on the system. I have had a 3.0 & 3.2 engine sitting on my garage for some rat-rod projects that never came trough. I swapped the DIS with the only decent looking one i had(clips wont hold in place), reconnected the battery n stared it up. Needless to say Im back to been a proud First time Ford owner again haha. I appreciate all the input I received from all you guys. I went ahead and order a new DIS. should be here tomorrow, not sure if the original one was defective or not but I ain't putting it back on. I do need to get the heat sink paste, I saw it when i was doing the swap but dint think anything of it.
luigisho
SHO Member
If the clips won't stay still chances are it won't run right. Also may indicate excessive engine movement. There's only so much slack in the wiring for each side. Keep an eye out for engine movement.
sperold
Last to Know
Zip-tie the connectors together making the DIS the center of the sandwich.
That is, unless you plan on exhibiting at car shows.
That is, unless you plan on exhibiting at car shows.
usvet101st
New Member
Temporary till tomorrow morning. Its staying put for the day i think!
sperold
Last to Know
Mine has been like that since my clutch job (10 years ago), where the guy did not take the engine torque shocks off the strut tower. Lowering the back of engine crunched the DIS, but it did not fail.
usvet101st
New Member
swapped it out w a new one. Blessed to have it on the road again
luigisho
SHO Member
Like we all mentioned, make sure a motor mount hasn't failed and engine movement cracks the ends of the DIS module again.
Carmievg
befuddled
Not sure if your issue has been resolved or not, but I have a question for you. You said you did plugs and wires when you first got the car. When you pulled the wires, did they have oil on the boots around the plugs? You may have leaky seals in the valve covers. I chased what you described, much as you are doing. Cleaned the oil from the plug wells and the sputtering at low rpms went away.
Haven't change the DIS on my car (89) yet but am told that when you do, make sure the two mating surfaces are very clean and use a very good conducting paste between the two mating surfaces. Failure to do so will result in high rpm misses.
luigisho
SHO Member
Use a very good thermal paste so heat doesn't damage the electronics inside the module. Electric grounds are provided by bolts on the intake manifold.
usvet101st
New Member
Thank you. The issue was resolved by changing the DIS. I did notice the oil residue when doing the plugs. Thats the next step, re-do seals and so forth. The more I inspect the car the more issues i find.
luigisho
SHO Member
That is always the case. You have to resign yourself to this fact owning a high maintenance older car. We all have to deal with it. First recommendation..have access to another vehicle.
BaySHO Performance
SHO Member
When a car has electrical problems, the first thing to always do is to pull the codes to see what's going on rather than throwing parts at it in the dark.
Using a paper clip and counting CE flashes doesn't clear the codes unless you disconnect the battery. Either do so, or buy one of these (very reliable):
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-...otive&sprefix=innova+ford+obd1,aps,263&sr=1-4
Then drive around some and recheck the codes. Sequence with the code reader: plug in, turn the ignition on but don't start, turn the reader on and hit TEST/HOLD. If done right, the fan will come on at the start of diagnosis. Write down the codes. At the end, press TEST/HOLD again, turn the reader off and turn the ignition off. This should clear the codes. You can always check by unplugging the reader and plugging it back in, then repeating the above process.
A useful source of info: http://wiki.wikisho.com/wiki/Main_Page
3 digit code meanings here:
http://wiki.wikisho.com/wiki/Three-digit_EEC_codes
Some of the interpretations are somewhat different from those in the previous post. But yes:
Might be a problem with the MAF circuit rather than the MAF itself.
212, 219 and 542 can usually be ignored.
None of the codes pointed to a bad cam sensor. So keep the old one.
The DIS Module may be OK. If they don't have heat sink grease on the back, they can overheat and break down.
https://www.autozone.com/miscellane...ink-compound-1-ea/19189_0_0?&searchText=SL203
Be aware that the bottom two 7/32" bolts ground the DIS, so make sure all four are reinstalled before doing anything. If it still throws coil pack failures:
DIS Module (Standard) LX242 Rock Auto
Rock Auto discount codes: https://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com
A source of parts not available anywhere else: https://shosource.com/
Using a paper clip and counting CE flashes doesn't clear the codes unless you disconnect the battery. Either do so, or buy one of these (very reliable):
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-...otive&sprefix=innova+ford+obd1,aps,263&sr=1-4
Then drive around some and recheck the codes. Sequence with the code reader: plug in, turn the ignition on but don't start, turn the reader on and hit TEST/HOLD. If done right, the fan will come on at the start of diagnosis. Write down the codes. At the end, press TEST/HOLD again, turn the reader off and turn the ignition off. This should clear the codes. You can always check by unplugging the reader and plugging it back in, then repeating the above process.
A useful source of info: http://wiki.wikisho.com/wiki/Main_Page
3 digit code meanings here:
http://wiki.wikisho.com/wiki/Three-digit_EEC_codes
Some of the interpretations are somewhat different from those in the previous post. But yes:
Might be a problem with the MAF circuit rather than the MAF itself.
212, 219 and 542 can usually be ignored.
None of the codes pointed to a bad cam sensor. So keep the old one.
The DIS Module may be OK. If they don't have heat sink grease on the back, they can overheat and break down.
https://www.autozone.com/miscellane...ink-compound-1-ea/19189_0_0?&searchText=SL203
Be aware that the bottom two 7/32" bolts ground the DIS, so make sure all four are reinstalled before doing anything. If it still throws coil pack failures:
DIS Module (Standard) LX242 Rock Auto
Rock Auto discount codes: https://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com
A source of parts not available anywhere else: https://shosource.com/
