802SHO 2010 Build

[Majestic]

Some ************* always trying to ice-skate uphill

 

[802SHO]

One electrical project I’ve been meaning to do for a while was properly rewire my single Mishimoto fan setup.

Previously the fan was powered directly through the switch panel itself. It technically worked, but cooling fans are a high inrush inductive load and every time the fan kicked on you could feel the electrical hit through the system. The fan motor startup surge was being absorbed directly through the switch panel and its internal MOSFET circuitry instead of the switch panel simply commanding the fan on.

Now the setup is properly isolated.

The Mishimoto fan uses 14g leads which I stepped into 10g wiring for the run to the relay. The switch panel now only sends a small 16g trigger signal to a dedicated 75A relay while the actual fan current comes directly from 30A fused battery power. Fan ground is also directly tied to battery negative.

The difference was immediate. The fan now comes on with basically zero drama. It feels electrically separated from the rest of the car because now the switch panel is only triggering the relay instead of carrying fan startup load itself.

What’s interesting is the fuel pump already behaves this way. The fuel pump primes before the engine even starts and it does not shock the electrical system when it comes on because it’s already operating through proper relay architecture.

Very soon I’m going to do the same thing with the fuel pump switch panel setup itself. The switch panel will only provide trigger power and the actual pump current will run through its own dedicated relay and battery feed. That one will actually be easier because I already have a switch panel lead routed to the rear of the car and can simply use the rear battery directly.

Basically a lot of people, including myself think “it turns on” means the wiring is correct. It doesn’t. But now the fan is properly wired.

 

[DadMobile]

One electrical project should be replacing your PCM.

 

[802SHO]

Still waiting on Ryan. Got my stuff from Racetronix finally. 2X the order too bc they reached out on Monday asking if I received it and I said no. They sent one overnight and the original released from Customs.

Adjusted the FR toe in. Just waiting for another revision. Changed the filter cone vinyl again lol. And matte black PPF eye brows
Time to test fit the bumper. I want to cut some of it open more, add back 1/4 HDPE plastic sheet access panels. Either large enough openings to leave the wastegate dumps on completely or at least enough room to install them after.

Bc of the fender liners my install for the bumper requires me to use my lift and install the vband clamp from under the car. Not ideal.

I could cut a larger openings and use bolts or rivnuts (although I’m not fond of rivnuts in plastic, have to finesse it and not compress them all the way) to reattach a cover to that opening. Something I could use to do much faster front bumper changes. Could be all plastic or part mesh and also vinyl wrapped to blend in with the rest of it.

Here’s a render of the idea of it using some mesh

 

[802SHO]

One thing I’ve been finding really interesting lately is oil analysis on this build as it continues through commissioning/testing.

This latest sample came from the same oil used all winter. The car saw:

-repeated tuning/logging sessions
-extended idle time
-cold starts
-short-trip testing
-hard pulls
-troubleshooting electrical gremlins and bad parts
-lots of heat cycles and system changes

Both samples so far have been pulled cold, so while it’s not the ideal lab method compared to a fully hot mid-drain sample, the trend comparison is still consistent because the sampling method has been the same each time. A hot sample is usually more evenly mixed and circulated while a cold sample can leave some material settled or suspended differently.

For context, for the people following who aren’t members or haven’t seen the full build thread, these are the engine mods:

-closed deck conversion
-Manley Extreme Duty pistons
-Total Seal piston rings
-Manley H-beam rods
-micro-polished OEM crankshaft
-WPC-treated crankshaft, camshafts, and piston pins
-King rod bearings
-King main bearings
-ARP 2000 main studs
-ARP 2000 head studs
-Boundary billet oil pump gears
-Cometic gaskets
-CNC-ported heads
-Supertech valve springs
-performance 5-angle valve job
-OEM valves
-new water pump
-new timing chain assembly
-all new seals and sensors

What I found encouraging was despite all the chaos that comes with commissioning a fresh high-performance build, the wear trends actually looked pretty controlled.

-Aluminum slightly improved from the first sample instead of climbing
-iron remained stable
-fuel dilution stayed low
-insolubles remained controlled despite winter operation and lots of idling/testing

That’s the kind of stuff I pay attention to because trend analysis tells a much bigger story than a single pull or dyno graph ever will.

Huge respect to Blackstone Labs too. They were interested enough in the setup and operating conditions that they asked for additional follow-up information because builds like this apparently aren’t exactly common submissions.

 

[802SHO]

One thing I realized after sending additional follow-up information to Blackstone Labs is just how many external oil system components are actually involved in this build beyond just the factory engine oil passages.

That context matters.

Initially the report already looked encouraging for a fresh built high-performance EcoBoost. But after stepping back and laying out the full oil system, honestly the results actually look even better for the system as a whole.

A few of the external oil system components involved:

-Turbowerx mil-spec scavenge pump
-phosphor-bronze pump gears inside the scavenge pump
-Straight Boost twin turbo oil scavenger tank
-Turbosmart one-way returnless oil pressure regulator
-sandwich plate with external oil pressure probe
--4AN turbo oil feed lines
--10AN turbo oil return/scavenge lines

Every single one of those components was installed brand new at the same time as the built motor and all currently share the same mileage and break-in period.

That matters because the oil is not only circulating through a freshly built closed-deck EcoBoost with forged internals, it’s also circulating through an entirely new external turbo oiling/scavenge system with additional lines, regulators, fittings, reservoirs, sensors, and even phosphor-bronze geared hardware.

During this same period the car also saw:

-repeated tuning/logging sessions
-extended idle time
-cold starts
-short-trip testing
-hard pulls
-electrical troubleshooting
-significant heat cycles
-refinement of the turbo oil drain/scavenge setup

So when I look at the wear numbers now, I think the overall picture actually becomes more encouraging, not less.

Instead of seeing an isolated engine with slightly elevated wear metals, we’re looking at an entire freshly built and freshly commissioned oiling system all wearing in together while being actively tested and refined in real-world operation.

 

[802SHO]

First built 6F55 transmission oil report is back.

Overall, honestly, I think this is a pretty good beginning considering what this sample actually represents.

Unlike the engine break-in oil, this transmission fluid was not treated to an immediate early flush at like 15 miles to aggressively remove initial wear material and assembly debris. This was basically the first real commissioning fluid while the entire built transmission/driveline system was wearing in.

The transmission had roughly 400-500 miles on the first fluid fill. Then I did a drain and fill with Driven AT6 mixed into what was still left in the unit. This sample had roughly 200-300 miles on that mixed-fluid setup.

Transmission/driveline setup:

-6F55 with 2.77 final drive
-fully disassembled and hot washed
-brand new valve body/solenoid assembly
-new seals and filter
-Durabond seamless bushings
-Seal Aftermarket Products Hi-Per Blue molded pistons
-welded planetary gear pins
-Helix Autosport prototype clutches
-Traction Concepts LSD conversion in front differential
-GH converter

Blackstone’s overall interpretation was still encouraging:

-AT6 didn’t appear to cause an additive-related problem
-most iron and silicon looked consistent with early wear-in
-insolubles were slightly high at 0.1%, so changing the fluid was the right move
-no coolant or water contamination detected

That insolubles number is worth keeping in perspective. It was flagged, but it was still only 0.1%. So I’m not saying the transmission was full of garbage or that the solenoids were destroyed by dirty fluid.

What I am saying is that on a fresh built transmission with a brand new valve body/solenoid assembly, fresh clutches, fresh bushings, fresh seals, and early break-in material washing through the system, even a small amount of debris/oxidized solids could plausibly contribute to less-clean hydraulic control or TCC behavior during early commissioning.

There is also the possibility of small amounts of early AN hose cutting debris from assembly/plumbing work. I blew the lines out during assembly, but I honestly don’t remember for certain whether I also brake-cleaned every line afterward.

So between:

-fresh clutch material
-fresh bushings
-fresh seals
-fresh solenoid body/valve body assembly
-break-in wear material
-possible tiny assembly debris
-fluid experimentation with AT6
-thermal management changes
-adaptive learning behavior

Honestly this report makes me wonder if at least part of the earlier shudder/converter behavior was dirty early break-in fluid, mixed friction behavior, low-temp operation, and adaptive learning noise rather than immediately assuming hard-part converter failure.

Since this sample, I’ve already done additional drain and fills and moved the system closer to straight Mercon LV. I’ll probably do another drain/fill in roughly 100 miles or so, but I’m not planning to send every single fluid change out for analysis.

The goal is not to analyze every drain pan. The goal is to track trends over meaningful mileage checkpoints.

So the next sample I care about will probably be around another 500 miles from now, engine and transmission together, even if there is another fluid change in between.

This first report is basically the dirty early commissioning sample. The next one should tell a much better story once the system has had more clean fluid through it and more miles to settle in.

 

[802SHO]

To the peanut gallery still following along: is your car all set? Boost leaks fixed? Ready to come after the record? New data? New upgrades? Anything useful?

At some point, spending your energy negatively commenting on someone who is actively collecting data, doing A/B testing, fixing issues, and still ignoring you has to feel like a punishment you signed yourself up for.

Move on, contribute something real, or go focus on your own car, family, life, whatever. You have my permission.

I genuinely don’t understand why you’re still here. If you spent half this energy on your own setup, maybe you’d actually progress.

I don’t hate my haters but I couldn’t imagine letting my build sit stagnant while instead focusing on winning the comment section here.

Go after my record, not the comment section. You’re losing both

 

[SM105K]

To the peanut gallery still following along: is your car all set? Boost leaks fixed? Ready to come after the record? New data? New upgrades? Anything useful?

At some point, spending your energy negatively commenting on someone who is actively collecting data, doing A/B testing, fixing issues, and still ignoring you has to feel like a punishment you signed yourself up for.

Move on, contribute something real, or go focus on your own car, family, life, whatever. You have my permission.

I genuinely don’t understand why you’re still here. If you spent half this energy on your own setup, maybe you’d actually progress.

I don’t hate my haters but I couldn’t imagine letting my build sit stagnant while instead focusing on winning the comment section here.

Go after my record, not the comment section. You’re losing both

I agree, wrench on your shit and go enjoy your car. It literally is that simple. Unless you drive performance German.....add light money on fire to that list.

 

[802SHO]

Interesting follow-up from Blackstone after I sent them more info about the engine build and oil system.

Basically, because this engine is so far from a normal factory 3.5 EcoBoost now, the universal averages are only going to mean so much.

They said going forward, the second column on the report, the Unit/Location Averages column, will become the main wear-metal gauge once I have more samples.

So basically the engine is going to get judged more against itself over time instead of just compared to a stock 3.5 EcoBoost average.

That makes sense to me.

This is not a normal stock engine anymore:

-closed deck conversion
-forged pistons/rods
-custom ring package
-King bearings
-ported heads
-external turbo oiling/scavenge system
-twin turbo setup
-different oil strategy
-lots of commissioning/testing miles

I’ll attach the screenshot of what they said, but that’s honestly exactly what I was hoping for with these reports.

Not just “is this identical to an average stock motor?”

More like:

-how does this engine trend against itself
-are the numbers stabilizing
-what becomes normal for this exact setup

That’s the useful part.

 

[802SHO]

Update for the transmission.
This is looking good for both the transmission and engine.

 

[Majestic]

To the peanut gallery still following along: is your car all set? Boost leaks fixed? Ready to come after the record? New data? New upgrades? Anything useful?

At some point, spending your energy negatively commenting on someone who is actively collecting data, doing A/B testing, fixing issues, and still ignoring you has to feel like a punishment you signed yourself up for.

Move on, contribute something real, or go focus on your own car, family, life, whatever. You have my permission.

I genuinely don’t understand why you’re still here. If you spent half this energy on your own setup, maybe you’d actually progress.

I don’t hate my haters but I couldn’t imagine letting my build sit stagnant while instead focusing on winning the comment section here.

Go after my record, not the comment section. You’re losing both

It's not that we are lazy, Bob, it's that we just don't care. Not much, anyway. I hope you run 8s in 2030.

 

[802SHO]

Saturday we test.

 

[Angrymongoose]

I agree, wrench on your shit and go enjoy your car. It literally is that simple. Unless you drive performance German.....add light money on fire to that list.

At least with the German you are still going fast while lighting money on fire. The old DSMs were light money on fire just to keep running and sometimes go fast.

Also 802SHO you seem to have stumbled on to some of the best customer service across multiple companies out there. Getting one to have that level of care is rare and you seem to keep finding them by the handful.

 

[802SHO]

The deeper I dig into the Green Oak 2368K strategy, the more I realize this car was never “random.” It was layered chaos on top of an extremely sensitive early torque-based EcoBoost operating system.

And honestly, now that the system is finally coherent after 20 months, the Green Oak personality is becoming VERY visible.

What’s fascinating is how many known Green Oak quirks directly correlate with what this car has actually done in the real world.

The Green Oak strategy is notorious for highly sensitive torque calculation loops, abrupt throttle closure when airflow exceeds modeled expectations, extremely intertwined network and module logic, fragmented shared 5V reference architecture, communication sensitivity, primitive early EcoBoost wastegate control logic compared to later Copperhead systems, rigid sensor correlation requirements, and aggressive predictive intervention behavior.

Now look at my car’s actual history.

Relay backfeeding. Unstable power delivery. Ground faults. FMEM and latching behavior. Module communication weirdness. Speed density airflow changes. Huge turbo airflow increases. Altered transient torque behavior. Custom fuel system. Custom transmission strategy evolution.

Of COURSE the system looked chaotic before cleanup.

This operating system expects agreement, correlation, stable voltage, stable communication, believable airflow modeling, and coherent torque prediction. If the environment becomes electrically or logically contaminated, the Green Oak strategy starts throwing defensive behavior everywhere because the PCM no longer trusts what it is seeing.

That’s why the distinction now matters so much. These are finally the FIRST legitimate clean logs this car has produced since 9/24.

Same PCM. Same BJB. Same transmission.

But now the car has stable power, corrected grounds, corrected relay behavior, corrected backfeeding, fluid mismatch solved, repeatable operating behavior, a clean DTC environment, and coherent logging.

Now the intervention behavior itself finally became understandable.

And the latest event was honestly one of the clearest examples yet of Green Oak’s personality.

Throttle angle initially stayed 100%. Actual load rapidly achieved desired load. Actual load then exceeded desired load trajectory. Throttle progressively stepped down. Torque intervention became aggressive. Shift timing got disturbed slightly during the event.

But scheduled torque itself was NOT fully reached. That’s the key realization.
The Green Oak strategy does NOT appear to blindly chase scheduled torque. It appears to prioritize overall modeled system agreement and projected future operating state.

Meaning the moment actual airflow and load behavior exceeded the currently acceptable modeled trajectory AND projected to continue increasing, the PCM intervened BEFORE additional thresholds could escalate further.

Protect first. Ask questions later. That’s not failure. That’s intelligent predictive torque management. And honestly? That’s EXACTLY why simply “turning torque management off” is low-level thinking on these cars.

The answer is not defeating the PCM. The answer is teaching the Green Oak strategy the true airflow and torque capability of the hardware so the modeled world and the real world finally agree naturally.

That’s also why Ryan’s latest revision makes perfect sense.

Manually rescaled torque and load tables. Raised some limiters. Added additional monitors. Lowered shift RPM back to 6200. Kept boost roughly the same.

This next revision is not about “making more power.” It’s about seeing if the Green Oak strategy agrees with the hardware behavior more cleanly at the SAME power level.

That is the proving ground. And honestly, the craziest realization of all?

The Green Oak strategy flawlessly protected my car on the last pull. Not because the car was broken. Not because the PCM was confused. But because it was doing EXACTLY what it was designed to do.

 

[802SHO]

Learn the literal system. Then lean on it.

 

[802SHO]

I think it’s vital to our (Ryan and I) success that we have taken a step back to understand what the Green Oak 2368K strategy is about. Not guessing. Not wishing it was something else or “simple”. It’s sophisticated and complex? Fine. Just what is it? Now that we know what it likes and doesn’t like, what it looks for, how it prioritizes…then we can ask it for more and it will let us have it, all of it.

 

[DadMobile]

To the peanut gallery still following along: is your car all set? Boost leaks fixed? Ready to come after the record? New data? New upgrades? Anything useful?

At some point, spending your energy negatively commenting on someone who is actively collecting data, doing A/B testing, fixing issues, and still ignoring you has to feel like a punishment you signed yourself up for.

Move on, contribute something real, or go focus on your own car, family, life, whatever. You have my permission.

I genuinely don’t understand why you’re still here. If you spent half this energy on your own setup, maybe you’d actually progress.

I don’t hate my haters but I couldn’t imagine letting my build sit stagnant while instead focusing on winning the comment section here.

Go after my record, not the comment section. You’re losing both

hey look! When I’m not driving my car I too can make AI slop!

 

[DadMobile]

“Hey CHATGPT, how can I ignore my haters?”

 

[FREAK_SHO]

***, met kettle. Please stop the non sense