1992 ford taurus sho will not start

[Blackdr16]

After talking with ShoSource it appears there is some faint lines on the belt. Gonna give that a try and see. Picture of said faint lines. Do these look legit?

View attachment 84972View attachment 84973

Yep those are the correct lines for cam position

 

[luigisho]

Exacly. I was wondering about one of the faint lines I saw on the original pics. It's been so long since I changed one I was used to the more visible lines from the old school pics.

 

[zoomlater]

Also just some more information. I changed out the DIS and well... it stalled out once. Though now it seems the car is fine. No more sudden stalling or erratic idle then dead. Ran the car the last week on the road an just sitting in my driveway idling. Seems what ever issue is now oddly gone. Still going to replace the stuff as I feel the car is just playing possum with me. Only to at some point again leaving me dead on the side or middle of the road. Just waiting on a cam/crankshaft seal removal kit before I start tearing into it.

Lines look ok, that is where they are on my gates belt, I would clear your codes and see if anything pops up again

 

[Bryan]

Lines look ok, that is where they are on my gates belt, I would clear your codes and see if anything pops up again

Okay I will give it a try and see what comes up.

 

[Bryan]

Lines look ok, that is where they are on my gates belt, I would clear your codes and see if anything pops up again

Okay so far after everything cleared it seems the car is running good. A week in and even some spirited driving revving over 3k-4k and still car is running with no problems. I am wondering if it was the DIS or something is just playing possum on me. Going to hold off on tearing into the front of the car until I get something to pop up again. So until then stay tuned.

 

[Bryan]

Okay so car just quit again on way to get inspected. Ran fin for a couple weeks now dead again. Obviously as before it appears it’s either the cam or crank sensor. However funny thing is as I sit here sweating while waiting for a tow truck I put the keys into the ignition to just pull up the cel light and it’s acting funny. It keeps going on and off. I can also hear the fuel pump coming on and going off. Lights on the dash are flickering. And the tach is erratic even though the engine is off

 

[Blackdr16]

Okay so car just quit again on way to get inspected. Ran fin for a couple weeks now dead again. Obviously as before it appears it’s either the cam or crank sensor. However funny thing is as I sit here sweating while waiting for a tow truck I put the keys into the ignition to just pull up the cel light and it’s acting funny. It keeps going on and off. I can also hear the fuel pump coming on and going off. Lights on the dash are flickering.

100% certain theres a bad connection somewhere - or bad PCM module. Connection on battery good? Check every ground location as they are critical to component functionality. (Especially the one on the back of the intake area) Can you pull codes?

 

[luigisho]

How is the battery charge at rest and the alternator output? Check major grounds and blah...I hate tracking electrical. You sure the DIS isn't shorting power

 

[Bryan]

P were

100% certain theres a bad connection somewhere - or bad PCM module. Connection on battery good? Check every ground location as they are critical to component functionality. (Especially the one on the back of the intake area) Can you pull codes?

I will pull codes when I get it home. Right now just waiting on the rollback

 

[Bryan]

How is the battery charge at rest and the alternator output? Check major grounds and blah...I hate tracking electrical. You sure the DIS isn't shorting power

How would I know of the DIS is shorting power?

 

[Bryan]

Btw the way…. The car did suddenly stall while driving it. That’s what happened first. It just suddenly died while driving, and I had just enough momentum to get it into a parking lot.

 

[luigisho]

I don't have my evtm manual but I remember you saying the DIS was giving you trouble. I had really weird stuff acting up when the alternator or the battery had issues.

 

[Bryan]

P were

I will pull codes when I get it home. Right now just waiting on the rollback

Okay so home now and pulled codes
Codes: 157, 211, 528, 542

 

[luigisho]

That is all over the place. Did you replace the computer recently? MAF,Crank sensor, fuel pump, and clutch something which I don't recall seeing much. Usually when stuff is triggered all over the place there is a power, wiring/ground issue, or pcm (since that routes stuff everywhere)

Fuel pump codes usually trip whenever the car stalls so it may indicate just that

 

[Bryan]

That is all over the place. Did you replace the computer recently? MAF,Crank sensor, fuel pump, and clutch something which I don't recall seeing much. Usually when stuff is triggered all over the place there is a power, wiring/ground issue, or pcm (since that routes stuff everywhere)

Fuel pump codes usually trip whenever the car stalls so it may indicate just that

No I haven’t. However would a clutch code pop if I tried starting the car by push starting it? While the car was drifting after it stalled I did try to use the clutch to jump start it. I guess I’ll pull the battery again and see if I can get any new codes. I’ll check the grounds as well.

 

[luigisho]

Yeah I got inconsistent codes and weird dash stuff when either the alt or battery were shot. THe pcm pins route power/signals all through the car so that is suspect along with wiring. Really to have a car this old I always recommend a few extra parts in case the thing dies. Like spare used DIS, PCM, crank sensor (back when they were much less expensive), IRCM etc

 

[Bryan]

Yeah I got inconsistent codes and weird dash stuff when either the alt or battery were shot. THe pcm pins route power/signals all through the car so that is suspect along with wiring. Really to have a car this old I always recommend a few extra parts in case the thing dies. Like spare used DIS, PCM, crank sensor (back when they were much less expensive), IRCM etc

Well I am going to be tearing into the car this weekend to swap out the crank sensor and cam sensor as I replace a few other things. Battery is fine. Tested it showed good. Alternator is I believe okay as well as when it was running I was getting 14 or so volts on the battery when o tested it running. I think things just got funky when I tried starting the car after it stalled on the road.

I also hate trying to route out electrical issues. I like my old 69 tbird. None of that electrical crap to worry about.

 

[luigisho]

I hear ya. I hate chasing electrical gremlins. This is doable. You just need a schematic and a game plan. The newest wrinkle in owning these cars is now more frequent electrical issues with old, weathered, heat cycled, sloppy engine movement, wiring.

 

[Bryan]

Update pictures! Okay so started tearing into the old SHO today. Got most of the accessories and stuff out of the way. Tomorrow is time to dig into engine!

Crank bolt no problem!

Unfortunately when trying to loosen alternator belt the c-clip holding the tensioner screw in place broke off!

New Crankshaft/camshaft seal puller and installer!


Lastly some fun stuff around where I live! Its harvest and planting season so the farmers are out and about!

 

[luigisho]

Those old parts are brittle and weren't that durable 20 years ago. Don't overtorque anything there (like pulley/tensioners and their brackets) because broken sheared off fasteners with crappy angles and no room to maneuver sucks!! BTDT in the front timing area and the back valve covers.
Careful with the timing cover plastic and it is not 1 piece there are overlaps when you go to remove it.