1992 ford taurus sho will not start

[luigisho]

Sounds like crank sensor. The 157 looks like MAF. 542 is a fuel pump that cuts off and that gets thrown whenever the call stalls for whatever reason.

MAF malfunction could cause erratic running. If it is replicable, and you unplug the MAF sensor and the idle or running smooths out, then the MAF is also an issue. THe car will run in defalut programming 'limp home' mode which doesn't usually stumble but performance is way down running in a closed loop program.

 

[Bryan]

So it’s either MAF sensor or crank? How do you think it’s the crank sensor? I guess tomorrow I’ll try replacing and go from there. They are cheap anyway and even if it doesn’t work I know I have a spare

 

[Bryan]

Also what about the 211 code?

 

[zoomlater]

211 is the PIP code could be due to the crank sensor failing (search for "code 211" on the forum take a look at some of the postings) If you look through those a 211 code could be set for other reasons than a failing crank sensor. Usually, you will have other symptoms that point to a failing crank sensor.

in the post below, BayshoPerformance explains how you can test the MAF sensor

Multiple codes mostly electrical problems

So I finally got to check the codes and got all these babies 539 10 122 157 214 542 Any thoughts where I should start looking?

shoforum.com

 

[luigisho]

Also what about the 211 code?

should have put the 211 with the crank sensor in my previous post. Sometimes my brain is doing short hand and it comes out less specific than I intended. I would not be so sure that it's either or. Could be either or...or both. Try running it around with the MAF unplugged at the sensor --located on the MAF housing, and see if it runs and stalls. It will have way low power unplugged but it should take the screwy sensor input out of the equation and smooth out. IF that is true then you can try cleaning the sensor filament (wire(s) hang from electrical sensor into the MAF housing body to measure air as it goes by) with maf cleaner spray and hope. If that doen't work then usually it's replacement time.

 

[Bryan]

Okay so quick question... How is the job to get to the crank sensor?

 

[luigisho]

You have to get a good guide like the wayback links to shophoenix website. The first run through, for me, took forever because 1st times always take longer and I didn't want to break anything.

Basically you have to go in through the passenger wheel well and remove the crank pulley. Probably have to start at the top and start removing the 3 piece plastic timing cover and release the tension and remove the accessory belt. If you have a compressor and air tools the crank bolt should shoot off. IF you don't, like me, I use a 1/2" socket 2-3 ft = breaker bar, enough extention to clear the fender and get a cheater pipe over the bar and let leverage be my friend. Probably need a puller to get the pulley off. Alot of work to get to a little 2 screws and plug and play sensor.
Think about time and money to budget for this and if you are going all the way in there... I would replace front main seal and timing belt if they were old. Probably water pump also. All that work..you won't want to do it again if you don't have to.

 

[luigisho]

Wow. J put up the website with good photos?? Awesome

SHO Phoenix Project

Breaker bars look like this



Cheater pipe- I use something from plumbing in the big box harware stores. Galvanized metal --length up to you-- I usually look at 4-5 ft ish

 

[Bryan]

Wow. J put up the website with good photos?? Awesome

SHO Phoenix Project

Breaker bars look like this

View attachment 84810

Cheater pipe- I use something from plumbing in the big box harware stores. Galvanized metal --length up to you-- I usually look at 4-5 ft ish
View attachment 84811

Yeah I don't need a breaker bar. I got a Milwaukee 1/2 electric impact. Guess its just time now to start collecting parts for this job.

 

[luigisho]

Hopefully electric impact is strong enough. My cheap electric harbor freight is ok but usually the really tight stuff on my car needs a little extra manual push with bf cheaters

 

[Bryan]

Hopefully electric impact is strong enough. My cheap electric harbor freight is ok but usually the really tight stuff on my car needs a little extra manual push with bf cheaters

1400 ft pounds of break away torque. I am more worried about literally ripping the head of the bolt off rather than not enough to loosen it. I usually use this stuff in where I work at in the concrete block industry with heavy equipment and such. Pic of what I run daily.

 

[Bryan]

So I am looking at the cam seal replacement process and I am wondering... how did he punch a hole through the seal? I got the replacement seals and they have a metal ring in them coated in rubber. Are the original seals not like this? It seems pretty sketchy to try and punch a hole through metal. Am I wrong thinking this?

 

[zoomlater]

They are metal. There is a picture where he uses a block of wood and a wonder bar to push a punch to make a small hole in the metal. Then you use a screw into the hole in order to pull it out

 

[luigisho]

They are metal. There is a picture where he uses a block of wood and a wonder bar to push a punch to make a small hole in the metal. Then you use a screw into the hole in order to pull it out

this

 

[Bryan]

Also... the timing belt I got off SHOSource doesn't have the timing marks for the cam sprockets. How am I supposed to line it up properly?

 

[zoomlater]

Also... the timing belt I got off SHOSource doesn't have the timing marks for the cam sprockets. How am I supposed to line it up properly?

I would take a picture and contact Shosource. Are the other lines there? If they are, you might be able to line up to old belt to the new belt and mark it. Make sure the wording on the belt is in the same direction as its possible to install the belt backwards

 

[Bryan]

Here is the belt. As you can see only the crank sprocket has marks. Nothing for cam sprockets. I will contact ShoSource and let them know.

 

[Blackdr16]

Can't quite tell from the second photo - does it have the white dot on the outer edge of the belt where the belt lines up with the dot on the sprocket? Feel like I've seen some belts use just the white dots on the outer edge but its been awhile

 

[Bryan]

Can't quite tell from the second photo - does it have the white dot on the outer edge of the belt where the belt lines up with the dot on the sprocket? Feel like I've seen some belts use just the white dots on the outer edge but its been awhile

After talking with ShoSource it appears there is some faint lines on the belt. Gonna give that a try and see. Picture of said faint lines. Do these look legit?

 

[Bryan]

Also just some more information. I changed out the DIS and well... it stalled out once. Though now it seems the car is fine. No more sudden stalling or erratic idle then dead. Ran the car the last week on the road an just sitting in my driveway idling. Seems what ever issue is now oddly gone. Still going to replace the stuff as I feel the car is just playing possum with me. Only to at some point again leaving me dead on the side or middle of the road. Just waiting on a cam/crankshaft seal removal kit before I start tearing into it.