Multiple codes mostly electrical problems

[Obi]

So I finally got to check the codes and got all these babies
539
10
122
157
214
542

Any thoughts where I should start looking?

 

[Obi]

Also when I did koer the reader showed 4 cyl..
Not sure what I am missing

 

[zoomlater]

your 93 should only have three digit codes

SHO Phoenix Project

you can ignore the 542, that pops up when your engine dies
not sure why you got a 10, what reader are you using.

 

[Obi]

Innovo , so the 10 code means okay.. from my understanding when I read the manual.
But the other codes all all electricals faults.
One for tps , one for fuel pump and one for maf,
Also is it normal for the reader to show 4 cyl on koer? Could there be a misfire or something for it to show 4 cyl instead of 6?

your 93 should only have three digit codes

SHO Phoenix Project

you can ignore the 542, that pops up when your engine dies
not sure why you got a 10, what reader are you using.

 

[zoomlater]

I have the same reader, but the one I have, you have to count the beeps. I thought the last time I tried it, it showed a 6 cyl for me. Typically, what I do is search for the code, one by one on the forum and see what others have found to address the code. If I recall, the 214 is related to the cam position sensor. One way to check if its the problem, is to unplug it and see if the car will run without it connected. It can take a few tries to start since the engine is guessing when to spark. I have not had those other codes pop up for me, but others may chime in with their past experience.

you can ignore the 542 fuel pump code

Based on your other posting of the engine shutting off after it gets warmed up, I was thinking crank position sensor. But you didn't get a 211 code. Its still possible for that failure without throwing a code. Have you tried seeing how long it takes to cool the engine down before trying to restart it. A crank sensor can fail after the engine gets warm, but will start once it cools down enough.

 

[Obi]

I have the same reader, but the one I have, you have to count the beeps. I thought the last time I tried it, it showed a 6 cyl for me. Typically, what I do is search for the code, one by one on the forum and see what others have found to address the code. If I recall, the 214 is related to the cam position sensor. One way to check if its the problem, is to unplug it and see if the car will run without it connected. It can take a few tries to start since the engine is guessing when to spark. I have not had those other codes pop up for me, but others may chime in with their past experience.

you can ignore the 542 fuel pump code

Based on your other posting of the engine shutting off after it gets warmed up, I was thinking crank position sensor. But you didn't get a 211 code. Its still possible for that failure without throwing a code. Have you tried seeing how long it takes to cool the engine down before trying to restart it. A crank sensor can fail after the engine gets warm, but will start once it cools down enough.

So the engine isn't shutting off when it warms up.
What's happening is when the car is cool it starts I drove it on the highway for 10 miles then stopped at a gas to fill up .. the car didn't want to start ... Waited 5 min and it started and rpm revved up and down then car died.
But I didn't get a 211 code no.
Also suddenly today the rpm gauge doesn't work.

 

[zoomlater]

try unplugging the cam sensor, it might take three tries to get it started and see if it stays running (tach not working is a sign this is one of the issues)

 

[Obi]

try unplugging the cam sensor, it might take three tries to get it started and see if it stays running (tach not working is a sign this is one of the issues)

Would that trigger the other codes about the MAF and fuel pump?

 

[zoomlater]

engine shutting off with out turning off the key will throw the 542 code
MAF code could be something else going on

 

[Obi]

engine shutting off with out turning off the key will throw the 542 code
MAF code could be something else going on

Ok will check these out and see what's up... Now to find out why the reader said I have 4 cyl and not 6 lol

 

[rubydist]

Disregard the code reader and count the blinks of the check engine light while checking codes. That is a much more reliable method in my experience. Let us know what they are when you do it that way.

 

[Obi]

Disregard the code reader and count the blinks of the check engine light while checking codes. That is a much more reliable method in my experience. Let us know what they are when you do it that way.

It blinked twice only ..

 

[BaySHO Performance]

So I finally got to check the codes and got all these babies
539
10
122
157
214
542

Any thoughts where I should start looking?
Also when I did koer the reader showed 4 cyl..
Not sure what I am missing

The 4 blips during KOER were generated because you were running a cylinder balance test where the PCM cuts fuel to each cylinder in turn and measures the RPM drop. The results came back as a weak #4 cylinder. Clogged injector or bad plug.

On Demand 539: AC was on during the KOEO. Ignore

10: single blip denoting the end of the on demand codes that the reader displays as 10 which are followed by the stored codes....

122: Throttle Position Sensor below minimum voltage
157: MAF Sensor below minimum voltage
214: Cylinder Identification circuit failure
542: Fuel Pump secondary circuit failure

As was said, ignore the 542 as it gets generated if you stall the car at a stop light.

214 indicates a bad camshaft sensor, which is why your tach stopped working and the car died. Duralast F134 from Autozone. It might have failed because the cam seal behind it is leaking. Run your finger along the bottom of the sensor to check. National 1213N from O'Reilly.

Probst tests attached for the MAF and TPS. These will tell you if the sensor is bad, or it's something else.

 

[Obi]

The 4 blips during KOER were generated because you were running a cylinder balance test where the PCM cuts fuel to each cylinder in turn and measures the RPM drop. The results came back as a weak #4 cylinder. Clogged injector or bad plug.

On Demand 539: AC was on during the KOEO. Ignore

10: single blip denoting the end of the on demand codes that the reader displays as 10 which are followed by the stored codes....

122: Throttle Position Sensor below minimum voltage
157: MAF Sensor below minimum voltage
214: Cylinder Identification circuit failure
542: Fuel Pump secondary circuit failure

As was said, ignore the 542 as it gets generated if you stall the car at a stop light.

214 indicates a bad camshaft sensor, which is why your tach stopped working and the car died. Duralast F134 from Autozone. It might have failed because the cam seal behind it is leaking. Run your finger along the bottom of the sensor to check. National 1213N from O'Reilly.

Probst tests attached for the MAF and TPS. These will tell you if the sensor is bad, or it's something else.

Thanks so much for a detailed reply.
I will check all of these accordingly.
I ordered camshaft sensor and maf sensor both delfi.

 

[FastCAD]

The 4 blips during KOER were generated because you were running a cylinder balance test where the PCM cuts fuel to each cylinder in turn and measures the RPM drop. The results came back as a weak #4 cylinder. Clogged injector or bad plug.

On Demand 539: AC was on during the KOEO. Ignore

10: single blip denoting the end of the on demand codes that the reader displays as 10 which are followed by the stored codes....

122: Throttle Position Sensor below minimum voltage
157: MAF Sensor below minimum voltage
214: Cylinder Identification circuit failure
542: Fuel Pump secondary circuit failure

As was said, ignore the 542 as it gets generated if you stall the car at a stop light.

214 indicates a bad camshaft sensor, which is why your tach stopped working and the car died. Duralast F134 from Autozone. It might have failed because the cam seal behind it is leaking. Run your finger along the bottom of the sensor to check. National 1213N from O'Reilly.

Probst tests attached for the MAF and TPS. These will tell you if the sensor is bad, or it's something else.

Thanks so much for a detailed reply.
I will check all of these accordingly.
I ordered camshaft sensor and maf sensor both delfi.

It is a good idea to erase all stored codes and restart the SHO for a clean code reading and don't forget to reset the PCM after all repairs to avoid those rabbit holes.
Make sure that the new maf is correct for the 3.2 SHO motor ie; fuel injected.

 

[Obi]

It is a good idea to erase all stored codes and restart the SHO for a clean code reading and don't forget to reset the PCM after all repairs to avoid those rabbit holes.
Make sure that the new maf is correct for the 3.2 SHO motor ie; fuel injected.

So for some reason when I did the readings again today I didn't get all the other codes .. only got 214.. confused as to why the others are gone

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Well, that does happen sometimes. I agree with Fastcad that it's always a good idea to clear the codes and regenerate them to double check what you actually have. But it doesn't currently look like you will need the MAF and TPS. It may have been because the engine wasn't running correctly because of the bad cam sensor.

 

[luigisho]

Agree with above. 214 is recurring so something to look at. IF all those sensor codes start popping off again I would look at a more general electronic issue like pcm, rcm or DIS. Something that relays signals to other components. All of those sensors are prone to failure at some time. But not all at the same time

 

[BaySHO Performance]

BTW, totally OT, I hope you like my new Avatar. Old SHO Shop customers should recognize it...

 

[zoomlater]

When you swap out the cam sensor, make sure the orange seal stays with the old cam sensor. Sometimes when you unplug it, the orange seal gets stuck inside the plug you just removed. The new cam sensor comes with this orange seal, so when you plug it back in, you could now have two seals. It will push together, but the signal get intermittent since its trying to push itself apart. I had this happen on my first 92 and was almost about to give up on the car until I read on here this can happen.

As Nick pointed out previously, see if there is oil leaking from the cam into the cam sensor. You don't want another failure due to oil leaking back into it. Its not that difficult to replace the seal, just take a little time and practice to get a new one installed.