1949 sho
- Thread starter Falconvan
- Start date
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Falconvan
Active Member
Thanks! Not sure why they shrink here; I use the exact same pictures on the other sites and they come out bigger. Got some primer on the firewall today; now for a little wet sanding and I'll put some color on it.
rbruso
unlikely
That's because you are uploading the pictures to the SHOForum directly, which appears to resize the pictures. Are you already uploading the pictures to an image host, or posting directly to other forums?
If you have an image host, you can just include the URL for the image in an tag.
If you don't already have an image host, consider using shospeed. That's where I'm keeping all my pictures.
Falconvan
Active Member
Ok, thanks. I'll have to try that.
Falconvan
Active Member
Did some cleanup in the garage and putzing around on the 49 today; a little sanding, adjusting the doors, got the motor on a stand and started taking the covers of to check the vitals. Im going to start on the other side this week. Im debating if I should pull the heads and change gaskets or not while the motor is out. The plugs on one side were burning clean but on the other bank were carboned up. O2 sensor issue?
Falconvan
Active Member
Anyone who has wired one of these motors in a different vehicle; did you use the injector harness as a complete unit or just follow the EEC pins and rewire only what was needed? I've been staying busy on this but havent posted any pictures as the forum says Im out of room and I still havent got around to setting up a picture host. As of now the car is painted, Ive gone through the engine and done all the 60K items, and the drivetrain is sitting back in the car.
I used the original harnesses and deleted the items not needed. There are some wires that get shortened or extended, but I find working from the stock harness easier in this case. It makes a big difference if you have good schematics for the year of motor/harness you have. There are some differences that can have you chasing your tail - ask me how I know.
Falconvan
Active Member
Hmmm......sounds like there's a story behind that! I'll be starting on wiring mine shortly so I may have to hit you up for advice.
Off Road SHO
Moderator
When I did The Other Woman I just used the connectors and spliced on new wires that were the correct length. I tried to use the same colors from multiple harnesses and when I couldn't get the exact colors, I just got as close as possible.
None of my wiring is visible on The Other Woman, everything runs down the "V" of the engine, and I moved the DIS off of the crossover so I could cut off the DIS's flat mount and polish the crossover better. I also terminated everything on termination strips so everything is changeable and removable.
Tom
None of my wiring is visible on The Other Woman, everything runs down the "V" of the engine, and I moved the DIS off of the crossover so I could cut off the DIS's flat mount and polish the crossover better. I also terminated everything on termination strips so everything is changeable and removable.
Tom
I done my first wiring harness. I used a 2.3 Mustang harness which is what car is and repinned for the 3.2 computer. [Using wiring from SHO motor where I hd to. Got it running but too many codes and odd hard to start issue.
Started again going with 3.0 wiring diagram. [manual trans SHO] using another 2.3 harness.
Now I have read the 94 to ? v-6 Mustang is almost identical to SHO. [Haven't pulled one to confirm] Just make sure to get from car that uses the EEC-IV computer. [60 pins at connector] Later computer is from reading 100 pin and will not work.
I repin and do mine on a sheet of plywood. Use bodyshop green tape to mark wires and connectors.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w224/mgman75/93 mustang converiable/100_6568.jpg
I did like Off Road SHO and run wiring in v of motor. Terminates to rear of motor to connectors so motor can be removed. Maurice
Started again going with 3.0 wiring diagram. [manual trans SHO] using another 2.3 harness.
Now I have read the 94 to ? v-6 Mustang is almost identical to SHO. [Haven't pulled one to confirm] Just make sure to get from car that uses the EEC-IV computer. [60 pins at connector] Later computer is from reading 100 pin and will not work.
I repin and do mine on a sheet of plywood. Use bodyshop green tape to mark wires and connectors.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w224/mgman75/93 mustang converiable/100_6568.jpg
I did like Off Road SHO and run wiring in v of motor. Terminates to rear of motor to connectors so motor can be removed. Maurice
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Falconvan
Active Member
Good info, Maurice. How's it been running for you?
Oh yeh. Be glad to help - got most of the essential documentation if you need any.
That is the problem. Pain to start acts like timing too high. Bunchs of codes since the wiring is for a 3.2. Computer is looking for the trans. Open headers. Video is loud. Maurice
http://s177.photobucket.com/user/mgman75/media/93 mustang converiable/Picture.mp4.html
Falconvan
Active Member
Hmmmm.........I'm going to also use a 3.2 computer and harness. Do you think it needs some programming on the EEC? I'm going to try a TWEECER on mine, I've seen a few guys on here that use them. I talked to Mike Glover over at Tweecer and he said it would do the job.
If you're using the 3.2 (ATX) PCM you really shouldn't need any reprogramming - at least that's what I concluded. Most functions you won't be using can be ignored with only a couple of exceptions.
Here's one of my threads on the topic.
Enjoy!
Falconvan
Active Member
I've been working on the engine harness and its starting to make some sense. I'm going to change a few things like moving the PCM and DIS under the front seat. I've got just about everything on the engine harness identified except for two plugs. One is a single wire plug with a white/red wire that comes off the cam sensor plug. The other is a round plug with 4 wires: red, red/green, red/blue, and black/yellow. Anyone know what those are? Also, some of the DIS wires have a foil shield; do those need to remain shielded if the module is relocated to the inside of the car?
Falconvan
Active Member
Good stuff, thanks!
Off Road SHO
Moderator
Yes, those shielded wires have to remain shielded. There is also a bare drain wire in those bundles that bleeds off all the EMR to ground. When I moved my DIS and PCM I had to extend those bundles also. Since I made a whole new harness, I cut aluminum foil into 2" strips and wrapped the bundle first with the drain wire around the bundle to keep them together, and then the aluminum foil, and then good 3M 88T vinyl tape.
I mounted a weather tight electrical box (16"x16") behind my passenger seat yet still in front of my rear mounted engine. I mounted an 1/8" thick aluminum plate inside this box that not only acts as a fantastic mounting plate for the PCM DIS and all the relays and fuses, but also as a ground plane where anything that needs to be grounded can be grounded rather easily.
As soon as I turn on the ignition switch a master relay heats up all the relays with 12 volts. I then use the switches on the dash to send a ground to trigger them.
Tom
I mounted a weather tight electrical box (16"x16") behind my passenger seat yet still in front of my rear mounted engine. I mounted an 1/8" thick aluminum plate inside this box that not only acts as a fantastic mounting plate for the PCM DIS and all the relays and fuses, but also as a ground plane where anything that needs to be grounded can be grounded rather easily.
As soon as I turn on the ignition switch a master relay heats up all the relays with 12 volts. I then use the switches on the dash to send a ground to trigger them.
Tom
Falconvan
Active Member
Sounds like a good plan, Tom. I may do something like that behind the seat. Any idea what that 4 wire plug is? I can take a picture of it tonight and post it.
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