Falconvan
Active Member
Great info, thanks!
1949 sho
- Thread starter Falconvan
- Start date
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Falconvan
Active Member
I finally got the word that my flanges are done although I dont have them in hand yet. So I should be building headers next week. I do want to get the car all one color before it goes back on the road so I started on some minor bodywork today; plugging several old holes in the decklid and rockers where Im eliminating some trim and emblems that I dont have anyway. The guy that built this had a motorized deck lid lift that was pretty cool but a little bulky so I decided to go another route. I saved this auto latch from a 96 Firebird that I scrapped; it was on the rear hatch. I'm going to use a GM trunk lock for the manual release cable and the button that worked the lift for the power release.
Falconvan
Active Member
I finished up both rockers and other than a little patch on the passenger side they were solid and no surprises. It's always the same area rusts out on these old Mopars; right below the taillights and the lip below the decklid. I could see some bubling through the paint so I decided to go ahead and fix it. Even though its going to be a budget paintjob, I dont want rust coming back through right away. I sanded it all down and its like I thought; several areas with pinholes in both spots. But it's worth the extra week or two of work to know its taken care of. The rest of the car is really solid.
Falconvan
Active Member
Im rebuilding this part a piece at a time; pretty tedious but it's looking ok so far. Also, I finally got my header flanges and intake spacers back. I think Im going to finish the rust repair on this side and then jump back to the headers. Once they are done I can pull the drivetrain back out and concentrate on the body front to back.
kevinspann
Don't take my advice.
How were those intake spacers cut? Waterjet? How much for a set? 
Falconvan
Active Member
I had a water jet place cut them; they were $160 for both the intake and exhaust. Not a bad price but it took a long time to get them back.
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Falconvan
Active Member
Got a few more pieces made and fitted today; should be able to get the last two pieces in tomorrow after work and this side will be done.
Falconvan
Active Member
Me, too, Maurice. I can get by but Im definitely no pro at it. Needs a little more finish grinding but this side is pretty much done. I was going to jump to the headers but I guess I'll bite the bullet and do the other side first.
Falconvan
Active Member
I got lucky, this side was not nearly as bad as the first side once I opened it up. I had one 5"x 5" piece of the inner brace that was gone but the rest was solid once I wire brushed it down really good. So I made a pice for that, welded it in, cleaned everything up, and hit it with POR15. The green stuff is some zinc based rust converter from Eastwood that's for spraying inside hard to reach areas like inside frames. The other side I was able to get a brush into but since I didnt remove as much metal over here, I used this stuff to get up inside the channels. Once this all dries I can button it back up with just a few small pieces of sheet metal.
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platoribs
Live to Drive
I have observed the following:
There are a few different kind of folks that SHO up here.
1) folks who own an SHO and need help keeping/getting it on the road, young & old.
2) folks who know these cars well due to having worked on many of them for themselves and grasciously (or less so) share their experiences with those above.
3) folks who are really creative, imaginative, and persistant who come here for assistance while they accomplish custom builds using the venerable Yamaha mill that graced our Sedans.
While there are many more 1's fewer 2's and fewer still 3's I find many more 3's here and on the MN-12 forums than I believe one would find on other platform forums. I guess this is due to the unique features offered by the SHO and SC (MN-12) platforms.
Regardless one of the things I like so much about being a 1 on all the forums I frequent is seeing these very talented fabricators building cool stuff with the engines and chassis I have fallen in love with.
So by way of thanking the 3's; Tom Dooley, Falconvan, SHOvert, 3d914, Pheonix, and all the rest of our fabricator freaks...
PlatSH0ribs
There are a few different kind of folks that SHO up here.
1) folks who own an SHO and need help keeping/getting it on the road, young & old.
2) folks who know these cars well due to having worked on many of them for themselves and grasciously (or less so) share their experiences with those above.
3) folks who are really creative, imaginative, and persistant who come here for assistance while they accomplish custom builds using the venerable Yamaha mill that graced our Sedans.
While there are many more 1's fewer 2's and fewer still 3's I find many more 3's here and on the MN-12 forums than I believe one would find on other platform forums. I guess this is due to the unique features offered by the SHO and SC (MN-12) platforms.
Regardless one of the things I like so much about being a 1 on all the forums I frequent is seeing these very talented fabricators building cool stuff with the engines and chassis I have fallen in love with.
So by way of thanking the 3's; Tom Dooley, Falconvan, SHOvert, 3d914, Pheonix, and all the rest of our fabricator freaks...
PlatSH0ribs
Falconvan
Active Member
Thank you, that's really nice of you to say. And thank you to all you 1 and 2s for graciously sharing you expertise on these engines.
Ditto, big time! :thankyou:
Falconvan
Active Member
Good day today; I got the other side buttoned up and ready for some filler and I got the passenger side header built. This one was easy; driver’s side will be a lot harder. I have a question regarding the 02 sensor bungs; the factory ones were pretty close to the heads on the manifolds. I'm planning on moving them down to the header collector. Will the increased distance be an issue or should I put them in one of the tubes the same distance from the head as the original ones?
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Please I want advice on this also. I know other people can give better advice. I done a search and only warning was may not get hot enough to work proper. Ceramic coating may have to be done. Putting the sensor in one tube would only get the ratio for that one piston. I found this on the inner workings of the EEC-IV computer which the SHO motor runs one.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/EECIVInnerWorkings/
This is copy of one section.
A word of caution to those who install long tube headers. In order for the O2 sensors to operate properly, they must be at, and stay at, a minimum temperature. If you place the HEGO O2 sensors farther away from the head than the stock location, you may have the sensor too far away to keep it hot enough to read correctly due to the cooled exhaust gases. This causes the EEC to enrich mixture and may cause plug fowling. Ceramic heat coating the headers will help maintain exhaust gas temperature. The EEC has a timing table used to time the sampling of the O2 sensors to coincide with the arrival of the latest cylinder exhaust pulse from each bank. Moving the HEGO sensor further away (or closer for that matter) may result in an ill-timed sample, which could also cause improper air/fuel mixtures to occur due to the O2 sensor not sampling when the pulse passes the sensor. One way to compensate for the additional time needed due to adding length in the Long tube headers is to change the timing table with an EEC-Tunerâ or TwEECerâ .
Hope that helps my thoughts which is not much since this is first header I have had on a transplant engine also. Maurice
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/EECIVInnerWorkings/
This is copy of one section.
A word of caution to those who install long tube headers. In order for the O2 sensors to operate properly, they must be at, and stay at, a minimum temperature. If you place the HEGO O2 sensors farther away from the head than the stock location, you may have the sensor too far away to keep it hot enough to read correctly due to the cooled exhaust gases. This causes the EEC to enrich mixture and may cause plug fowling. Ceramic heat coating the headers will help maintain exhaust gas temperature. The EEC has a timing table used to time the sampling of the O2 sensors to coincide with the arrival of the latest cylinder exhaust pulse from each bank. Moving the HEGO sensor further away (or closer for that matter) may result in an ill-timed sample, which could also cause improper air/fuel mixtures to occur due to the O2 sensor not sampling when the pulse passes the sensor. One way to compensate for the additional time needed due to adding length in the Long tube headers is to change the timing table with an EEC-Tunerâ or TwEECerâ .
Hope that helps my thoughts which is not much since this is first header I have had on a transplant engine also. Maurice
Nice body and header work! You must have a decent welder - with my wire core welder there's no way I could weld with the header attached to the motor - way too much splatter.
Sure would like to see bigger pics - though. hint, hint
Sure would like to see bigger pics - though. hint, hint
Falconvan
Active Member
Thanks! I've got a MIG with a CO2/Argon bottle. As far as the headers I just put a couple of tacks on the tubes to hold them together while it was on the motor, then pulled it back off to finish welding everything.
Falconvan
Active Member
Got the other side done today; not bad for my first header building attempt. Now I can pull the drivetrain back out, start smoothing my welds on the firewall, and getting it ready for paint.
Falconvan
Active Member
I got the motor pulled back out tonight and finished welding everything on the headers except the O2 bungs. Now I'm going to get the engine on a stand and stick to the body until it's ready for paint.
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