100,000 mile maintenance

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Redbull14

Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2015
Messages
44
Reaction score
16
I have a 2014 SHO w/o PP. Closing in on 100,000 miles. I’m going to proactively change the timing chain and water pump. Along with Ford’s other “recommended” 100k service items, are there any other items I should be looking at replacing or checking? I’m only allowed to buy a screamin’ sleeper once every 15 years so I need to keep the SHO in top shape! Thanks,
 

4sfed

SHO Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2018
Messages
368
Reaction score
348
Location
St. Louis, MO
If you're looking for performance upgrades as well as general maintenance, I think this'd be a good time upgrade the turbo's and DP's. ...and whatever is easier to get to with the engine out.
 

luigisho

SHO Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2001
Messages
13,265
Reaction score
5,143
Location
va beach,va
I would look at the timing chain kit with the tensioners replaced. Make sure the driveline fluids are fresh if you don't normally change them. Go over the underside and look at the suspension parts and rubber bushings, end links etc.
 

Billy VK

SHO Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2018
Messages
228
Reaction score
231
Location
Indiana
The water pump, timing chain kit, tensioners and guides CAN be done without pulling the motor. So ya know. A good mechanic outside of the stealership can do it. I had mine done at a reputable shop here in Indy about 7k miles ago.
 

Frostbrosracing

SHO Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2020
Messages
164
Reaction score
277
Location
Austin, TX
That's great! I wish we had done the water pump on my son's car ourselves. We took it to a mechanic and paid $2600 to have the water pump done with new timing chain. Of course, an oil change was part of that work along with a coolant drain and refill. About a week (200 miles) after we got the car back it began blowing a THICK cloud of white smoke. Also, when driving it felt very anemic with no noticeable turbo pull. Of course the first thought was a smoked turbo. Since we were following up on PTU maintenance and needing to pull the downpipes anyway I figured we'd inspect the turbos at that time. Rear turbo, no evidence of oil or excessive play. Front turbo, had to remove the oil filter to access the mounting hardware for the cat (no evidence of oil or excessive play). When I pulled the oil filter I noticed the oil was black as night! Also, the oil filter was not replaced with the "oil change". I took a sample of this 200 mile oil outside and looked up through it at the sun and couldn't see any light whatsoever. So we completed the oil change, re-mounted the exhaust components, and took it for a test drive. Amazingly, no smoke and the thing was pulling strong again. I've sent a sample off to Blackstone for analysis and will see how much coolant remained in the oil. We've been in contact with the repair shop and they refunded the money we were charged for the oil change as well as for the oil we put in it. Long story long...do anything you can in the comfort of your own garage and with the assurance that it will be done right. Sorry for the hijack. Just wanted to give props on doing your own service and repairs. Next time I'll be doing so for sure.
 

Johnbigdog

SHO Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2017
Messages
1,417
Reaction score
1,703
Location
michigain
It wouldn't hurt to do ALL the timing drive components since you are there. I know at 116K when my pump failed the timing chain guides looked ok. They were replaced anywhays. It is posible for the VCT or the VCT solenoids to fail. You are right there.

It may be cheeper to get new valve covers then gaskets if your doing for parts. This also negates the need for a new h.p. pump base gasket.


CHECK YOUR VALVE CLEARNCE. We have mechanical buckets. Meaning no self adjustments. You have the camshaft right there if you need to pull them and replace a bucket (tappet).

I would do a coolant flush with the VC1 before you do the pump to clean the block, heater core and radiator all out. Your supposed to pull the radiator out and flush it with water afterwards. *Change over to the replacement for orange coolant.*

Engine mounts and roll restrictors
Accessory drive belt and tensioner
T-stat
Brake fluid
Transmission oil
Ptu oil
RDU oil
Spark plugs
Engine and cabin filter
I think in 14 the Ted's (if you have heat/cooled seats) may have a filter attached too them? It's a white disk attached to the under side of a blower motor looking thing under the seats. My 16 just has a plastic grill

What do your pads rotors look like
What do your tires look like
Maybe a good time for paint corection? You can remove the door handles and do a NICE buff and wax.
Shampoo the carpeting.

I cant think of anything else to spend your money on at the moment.
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
107,077
Messages
1,181,195
Members
16,141
Latest member
grapnelg

Members online

Back
Top