150k Maintenance

[SHOuldnt_be_here]

Hey all,

Sorry for the long post in advance.

Just rolled my SHO (2011 non-PP) over to 150k (purchased at about 140k). Service records say timing chain was done around 120k.
Since ive come into ownership ive done: Oil changes every 3k, PTU/RDU changes about every 8k, front stabilizer links, front wheel hub assemblies, and custom intake piping.

I plan on ordering reman turbos (no glaring issues with my current ones other than slight shaft play and a very small amount of oil leaking), 2013 exhaust manifolds (as I hear the 2010-12's tend to throw metal), and new oil feed lines For the turbos. I also plan on cleaning out my intercooler when the new turbos go in.

Is there any other maintenance, mods, or whatever else I'm forgetting? Any suggestions to add on? Please feel free to educate me. I would like to eventually get a tune and throw on the H&R springs I have but only after the work that needs to be done.

Oh also, im fully aware of the gunk that builds up on our valves, I haven't taken a look in there yet so I'm prepping for the worst, any good way to clean it all short of walnut blasting?

Thank you all

 

[kryptto]

Hey all,

Sorry for the long post in advance.

Just rolled my SHO (2011 non-PP) over to 150k (purchased at about 140k). Service records say timing chain was done around 120k.
Since ive come into ownership ive done: Oil changes every 3k, PTU/RDU changes about every 8k, front stabilizer links, front wheel hub assemblies, and custom intake piping.

I plan on ordering reman turbos (no glaring issues with my current ones other than slight shaft play and a very small amount of oil leaking), 2013 exhaust manifolds (as I hear the 2010-12's tend to throw metal), and new oil feed lines For the turbos. I also plan on cleaning out my intercooler when the new turbos go in.

Is there any other maintenance, mods, or whatever else I'm forgetting? Any suggestions to add on? Please feel free to educate me. I would like to eventually get a tune and throw on the H&R springs I have but only after the work that needs to be done.

Oh also, im fully aware of the gunk that builds up on our valves, I haven't taken a look in there yet so I'm prepping for the worst, any good way to clean it all short of walnut blasting?

Thank you all

This late in the game - valves I would guess might be mushroom looking, seems many of us have or acquire endoscope, and send them down the MAP sensor opening.

Before

You can use CRC or Seafoam GDI cleaner to start trying to break down build up - however by 30K make start getting build up to a point hat cleaning is just keeping build up from building more. Follow the instructions on the cans exactly, dont improvise. After a cleaning replace the oil, many of us replace 3K and perform a valve cleaning just before the oil replacement. IF your buildup is really bad - then a walnut blasting might be the only option.


My ONLy other suggestion, if cleaning out the IC - replace with a Gearhead, IF you can get one.


After

 

[shoblock]

Ford routinely ran our motors hard in the early days of development. For the PP's, they finetuned a few weak points as these became police specials. To prove, they idled a high mile engine for a half hour at below freezing temperatures (Detroit) then ran it wide open for a set amount of time. Others were tortured in the desert for 225,000 plus miles, including towing up mountains. These engines are Ford tough.
The valve 'gunk' and water pumps are the weak points, but the water pump issue does not apply to F150's. Newer engines have both port AND direct fuel injection, just to keep the valves clean.
SHOBLOCK

 

[kryptto]

Newer engines have both port AND direct fuel injection, just to keep the valves clean.

I always forget this since my 14 was a gtdi only. Thanks for the back story of testing - love hearing the Ford engineering.