bad day.. sho hates me again..**anyhelp**

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HotRodKid

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It's easy to check the clearance of the valves. Take off the intake and valve covers. Then with a good set of feeler gages. Just turn the cams (there's a big hex on each)

i would like to state, just so noone breaks anything, that you shouldnt try to rotate the cams using those hex heads if your timing belt is still on

if your timing belt is on, use the crank bolt to rotate the engine, using the hex's will take ALOT of work and youd be lucky if you didnt break a cam in the process
 

ThatShoGuy

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i would like to state, just so noone breaks anything, that you shouldnt try to rotate the cams using those hex heads if your timing belt is still on

if your timing belt is on, use the crank bolt to rotate the engine, using the hex's will take ALOT of work and youd be lucky if you didnt break a cam in the process

thanks for that advice!
 

ThatShoGuy

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pulled the oil pan off, got to the bearings i checked all the rod bearings by wiggling them up and down and in and out and side to side,also turned it over (by hand) and still every thing was tight???, but they all had side to side movement. none had up or down or in and out.. all felt tight.. so should i count on all being good in the lower end.. the oil had no metal in it at all... every thing looks good and clean i did not pull the caps since the bearings felling tight...only thing is the knock dont seem to be there unless the motor is warm, and i did this on a cold motor.. any chance that being a issue?

so should i start to look at top end.. valve train issue since thats not new???

what do you think shoz123
 
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SHOZ123

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I've been questioning your motives for the bad rod bearings on a new block. I KNOW your valves are not properly adjusted.

Well I guess I don't really know.....
 
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SASHO91

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What that noise reminds me of, and I'm no GenIII expert, is a loose timing chain slapping.
 

ThatShoGuy

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I've been questioning your motives for the bad rod bearings on a new block. I KNOW your valves are not properly adjusted.

yea i know, but that knocks out the chance of a issue with a rod... once i get the exhaust back on im gonna pull the front valve.. do you really think a valve could cause all that knocking.??????

also recheck the tq converter nuts while the oil pan was off.. all was tight so i know it aint that...

the valves are getting checked nexted..

thanks shoz!
 
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ThatShoGuy

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What that noise reminds me of, and I'm no GenIII expert, is a loose timing chain slapping.

yea i was starting to think something like that next.. but why wouldnt it do it soon as i turn the key???

thanks for your input!
 

ThatShoGuy

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well i checked the front shims also today.. all besides 2 intake and 2 exhaust were in spec and thos 2 were only out by .01mm.. i think im gonna check the backs 2morrow..

also picked up 8 plugs changed the fronts tonight...
 

ThatShoGuy

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any ideas you guys/gals???

didnt check the rears yet but like i said fronts have been checked.. CAMS are welded!!!

oil pans been pulled, rods visually check by hand... none loose...(cold motor)
belts been pulled sounds still there main and water pump...
check tq converter nuts 2 times, tight!
checked the front cams like i said they are welded.. but you never know!!!!

it only happens once the motor is warmed and only knocks from 2500rpm and lower

whats next only thing i can think of is maybe its somthing with the tq converter its self.. idk you peeps are the pros.!!
 

ThatShoGuy

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here is some more info if it could help...........

today i went to work at 5am started up no knocking drove 1.5miles started to knock finished to work another 7 miles..

car sat for 3.5 hours got in to head home silent, 2miles later knocking! drive home 7 more miles, knocked the whole ride!

car sat again for 15-20mile at most came out to leave head to the parents house. 3 miles up the road. didn't knock till i pulled in there neighborhood, knocked till i shut it off at there place!

car sat for 1 hour or so while i went to court for a ticket. came home got in silent no knocking drove 2 miles started to knock again. drove home another mile or so,knocked till i shut it off.

so to remember also the only time the car really even wasn't warm was when i went to work and when i left work(even then still had 1/4 temp gauge).
other then that the car sat and stayed fairly warm.

just don't make since, rod knocks dont come and go.. really any metal to metal surface should not knock at one point and then knock the next.. which i pretty should its not a rod since its a nos block!....

besides my transmission (which has about 15k on rebuild) only thing that could really be left is a timing chain guide or the timing chain tensioners.....

at least that's all i can think of

thanks
 
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ThatShoGuy

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well yesterday my gf got a dead battery in her car so i had to drive out to her work in the sho.....

about 30 or so miles round trip and about an hour of revin the motor up and down to try to get the car to jump off.. didnt work but anyways
drove home parked it came out today to start it not a single sound.. so i would think if it was a rod bearing or really any kind of bearing that it would have went already..

any one with any input..

guess im gonna have to drive it till my tbird sc is back on the road and then if the sho is still kickin it im gonna pull the motor apart.. i dont know what to do next.. and pretty much anyone i talked to is the same way...

thanks again
 

ThatShoGuy

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so to add to my strange deal!!!

today drivin from a friends house gettin off the freeway cars knockin w/e is how i feel.. drive about a mile off the freeway stop at a fast food place sat in there line for a good 15min when i took off the car didnt knock... hit the throttle a few times still nothing drove down the road a mile and the knockin came back..

im goin crazy here with this car!!!!!
 

Funmart6

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I think if I were you, I would try to be able to get together with one of the SHO specialists from this forum, (if someone is nearby anyway), maybe if someone could actually see and hear what is going on, then maybe it could be remedied more easily. That is just weird that the sound comes and goes like it does, that would drive me nuts also.
 

ThatShoGuy

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I think if I were you, I would try to be able to get together with one of the SHO specialists from this forum, (if someone is nearby anyway), maybe if someone could actually see and hear what is going on, then maybe it could be remedied more easily. That is just weird that the sound comes and goes like it does, that would drive me nuts also.

the one thing is i really don't have any cash to spend on this car right now.. im broke!!! so idk... im located in Michigan anyone willing to help?

im thinking about pulling the timing cover. sounds like it could be something with the chain... im wondering if the tensioner for the main chain could be failing and i hear the chains slack???
 
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Brett

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I honestly dont think rod knock is your problem, but. I drove a jeep for 15k+ with a rod knock that didnt go away above 2500rpm i mean this thing was LOUD, the more you got on it the louder it got. Due to long gears in the jeep it cruised at just above 2k where it was almost not audible. Anythings i dont know about SHO motors, but my jeep and a couple GM cars i know of have traveled good distances with real rod knocks.
 

ThatShoGuy

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I honestly dont think rod knock is your problem, but. I drove a jeep for 15k+ with a rod knock that didnt go away above 2500rpm i mean this thing was LOUD, the more you got on it the louder it got. Due to long gears in the jeep it cruised at just above 2k where it was almost not audible. Anythings i dont know about SHO motors, but my jeep and a couple GM cars i know of have traveled good distances with real rod knocks.

yea i don't know sometimes it knocks at idle sometimes it don't. today was the first time the knock went away after it has came without shutting the car off???

i doubt its a rod knock my self i did check the rod to see if they felt loose, everything felt really tight still. like it should with only 6k on the short block..

im just really confused at , what in a motor can knock after it has been ran so many miles and after sitting for a good 20min and then another few miles. just dont make any sense. sounds like metal on metal but at the same time how could it be sense it take a time and then it will stop..

i been thinkin that it sounds like the timing chain could be slapping the cover. but i don't really know that's why i plan to pullin that with in the next 2 days since thos are my days off...
 

ThatShoGuy

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got ready to pull the rear cam cover to check the cams and all.. and put the new plugs in back there!

went to loosen the egr and come to find out both bolts holes are striped out.....

wonder if my sound has been a egr leak/exhaust leak..... whats the chance of it being that simple?? would be nice...


thanks for anyinput
 

SHOZ123

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I have a tick that happens when the engine is cold and goes away when warm. It is an exhaust manifold leak.

One way for you to find out is to unplug the EGR vacuum line this will stop the heat soak caused by the EGR gasses and the associated thermal expansion. May be too late with the stripped out threads though.
 
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